G'day BeachBiker
The subject you chose does not really make sense, maybe change that to "Controller no power" or something.
Sounds like the subject you chose, your controller is not very good with women hehe
Back on topic, the part [or parts] that generally fail on a GM controller (and MANY other controllers no matter the manufacturer) is the MOSFETS. In experiece I have found 2 of the 6 to fail. The cause could be a variety of things, but I feel they mostly fail from transient voltage or over current when the
BMS in the battery stops current flowing into it, therefore resulting in overcurrent/voltage in the MOSFETS.
If you have had more than 1 controller fail, it is most likely your riding style; amount of hills you are climbing, or amount of regen you are using continously therefore overheating the controller.
I'd say the FETS would be failing under transient voltage, or overheating....
GM use a
ST MicroElectronics brand MOSFET here are the order codes if you wish to order some:
PAK TO-220Order codesPart number Marking Package Packaging
STB140NF75T4 B140NF75 D
PAK Tape & reelSTB140NF75-1 B140NF75 I
PAK TubeSTP140NF75 P140NF75 TO-220 Tube
Not sure what they accept as a minimum. Generally manufacturers of this magnatude will accept "Sample orders" where you could buy say 10 of them.
Should you want more power, you can shorten the shunt in the controller, or add solder to it, and the power PCB tracks to increase the power. This is however, very risky and should you do this I recommend adding say 2 x 80mm fans underneath the controller, or if you are good with electronics, use a temp sensor on a peltier module to keep the controller at low temp.
You can also adjust your cruise controller using a
PI-0200E cable.
Good luck
MM
