Final Advice Needed Setting Parameters on the PI200 Software

[Andrew]

Hi folks,

Fingers crossed I will finally be launching my DIY MTB Pie assembly this weekend.  As my nerves and excitment grows I'd just like a few pointers setting up the MAGIC PIE's parameters.

i.e   Current (continuous and peak)
      Motor Voltage
      Speed Scale %
      Regen Brake %

What do people suggest?
      
By the way, It's a full Golden Motor kit w/internal controller and 48v 12ah Lithium Battery

Rgds

Andrew

[Bikemad]

I will finally be launching my DIY MTB Pie assembly this weekend.

Andrew, I hope the launch goes according to plan and doesn't have to be aborted due to poor weather conditions! Unfortunately I'm too far away to be able to hear the "Blast Off", but I'm sure you will be able to report back and tell us how it went. No doubt you will be flying up the hills soon enough!

Don't forget this weekend will be an hour longer than most, so you will be able to spend that extra hour flying around on your Pie.

I would try it with the factory settings first and see how it goes. You can always try altering the setting at a later date to fine tune the regen etc.

I think the Motor Voltage is pre-set to 24V (which apparently gives more torque) and the Scale Speed should be 100%, but I'm not sure about the default Regen Brake setting. It might be a good idea to save the factory default settings before you actually change any of the parameters, just in case you accidentally alter something incorrectly.

Alan
 

[Andrew]

ha ha! 

i'll keep things as they are apart from regen which I will lower a little.  Making sure the voltage is on 24v(which it is set to anyways).   Everything else i'll just leave alone.

Wish me luck. - I'm just making final adjustments to my flame retardant evil kenevil suit and cape,  I just need to make the trouser legs a bit more flared

Andrew

[Leslie]

It depends on your battery voltage and controller behavior.

Some people are complaining of lack of power at normal settings.

I had to put mine on 24v and max all the other settings to get the bike to respond with torque from the throttle.

Be carefull of the cable that leads into the hub as the edges are very sharp.  When I took one of my pies appaert I took the extra time to smooth the edges.  Would of been good to do this before it got damaged.



Here I used an old rusty metal file and some sand paper.  I got it so sooth I could run my tounge across the work and feel nothing sharp at all.

As you can see in the picture the cable was stripped from underneath. I couldnt even see the how big it was until I pulled it appart.

I think if I set the cable really straight and used some glue around the edges I may of avoided the damage to begin with.

[Andrew]

Leslie,
Thanks for the heads up!  I'll inspect the area and maybe add some kind of rubber sealant if necessary


 


I just want to run the MP as factory intended,  and then go from there.

Andrew

[Leslie]

You can connect and get config and see what parameters are already installed.

Without knowing what amps are going into the hub, configuration is a tad scary.

If youre not sure take the bike for a run and do lots of stop starts.  Then feel the motor after a while.  If she starts to get warm keep doing stop starts and maybe a hill, keep checking motor temperature now, if it stays warm then your settings are good, if it starts to get hot, then too much amps.  Allow to cool and take the max and cont amps down.

If after a while of testing, if you feel no temperature from the motor then you can add more amps.  If you have maxed everything in 48v mode and the motor runs like a little baby and dead cold then switch to 24v mode and you will feel much better power.  


Just keep focus on the motor temperature.  It takes about a minute for the heat to flood into the motor case so keep this in mind when testing.

[Leslie]

Ohhh and  BTW sealing your motor up is not advised.  I drill a small hole in the case behind the gears to allow the motor to breath.  The hole I drill is is big enough just to fit a pin in it and it exsists behind the gears so it cant be seen, and it higher up on the motor plate so its almost as high as the axel.  Water from the outside is lucky to penetrate this hole at all but air can.

We have had many people complain about getting water on the motor because they attempt to make it water proof.  But humidty condenses inside a sealed motor, the heat expands the air inside, blows the seals into restricted breathing, and water appears in the motor.  I sealed my HBS hub up and within a month I opened it up and it was all rusty and had a about a table spoon of rusty coloured water sitting over the magnets.  Amazed the hall sensors worked in that hub.

[Andrew]

All wise information. I think I need to adopt the code of... 'if it's not broke - don't fix it' 

Thanks for the advice on treating the motor with caution, will definately have this in mind when testing

Cheers
again

Andrew

[MonkeyMagic]

awesome