Pulsating regen

[Magneto81]

So I redid all my connections and the issue of the pulsating motor and an indicator of low voltage has gone away. I still have an issue with the regen for the first few minutes of riding, but I didn't redo the connections from the button to the controller, so maybe that's the issue. I'll post again once I've fiddled with that a little. In the end I think it's all related to connection/connection quality.

[Bikemad]

I still have an issue with the regen for the first few minutes of riding

It's probably because the high voltage of the freshly charged SLA's (14.5V per battery) is allowing the regen to raise their combined voltage above 60V (15V per battery), causing the controller to cut out because the GM controller's maximum 60V limited has been exceeded!  As soon as it cuts out, the regen would stop, causing the voltage to drop back down below 60V, allowing the controller cut back in and repeat the cycle again.

After you have been riding for a few minutes, the battery will have become discharged enough to enable it to absorb the full regen current without the voltage exceeding the 60V limit, allowing the regen to function correctly.

Any chance you can try a test run on 24V to see if the regen still plays up?
If you did this, you would also discover that the regen is much stronger on 24V than it is on 48V.

Alan
 

[SydneyCommuter]

Guys

I definitely have this problem and it occurs through the full range of battery life.
Always after using the breaks there is a delay throttling up usually 2-3 steady rotations of the throttle it comes back.
Many times also it fires up, motor runs for a second and then cuts, waits a couple of secs, throttle again and cuts after a second.
Wait 30secs to a min and its all back to normal or wait a bit less and then very small amount of throttle and its stable.
If I keep off the brakes it never misses a beat. If I can't find a good solution I may
I strongly suspect its the battery management with some sort of over current as you suggest, but the issue is even when the battery is showing fully half full it'll do it, ie batter charge seems to be independent of the fault.
I have 26in wheel, 36v 16ah battery, internal pie. I've also had the problem many have that I can't change the settings on the pie due to the issue getting the pc/usb/pi100 to talk. so I'm stuck on the factory 24v, 30/50amps 50%regen. I am most keen to see if reducing the regen and lowering the max amps would make a difference but looks like the cover will have to come off to fault find the usb  as no one has sussed out the cause of this prob yet??

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey mate

Can you confirm if you are using the standard harness (all plugs & connectors) or if you have cut these and manually soldered?

I really expect this is your connections.

If your factory settings are 24v 30/50 and 50% regen is pretty much perfect! Usually, and they must have changed it now, but the regen was always set to 100% and was a little too strong there. Your wheel arrived with these settings?

With the PC/USB issue, remove the battery connection altogether from the wheel - and plug in your USB cable to the wheel harness socket. Then open the PI-200 software and attempt to connect. I'm thinking perhaps maybe if your wiring harness has some connection issues, this could be the sole problem of it not connecting.

After using regen, there is a small delay before the throttle is enabled to work - so don't expect this to be instant. After using regen, I generally wait a few seconds before applying the throttle, as too much power either way then switching back could result in mosfet(s) failure.

If this persists, I can see opening your pie and testing all the connections from the controller to harness sockets might be the next step....

Cheers

[SydneyCommuter]

Thanks
Its helpful to get an idea how the thing should operate in practice so that I'm just fixing the faults and not the intended idiosynchrasies of the system, I'll stop stressing about the time lag.

The cutting out is perplexing, goes for a sec and cuts then does it again, very anoying on some of the stop/start bits of my commute?? hopefuly it'll come to light when I get it all apart.
Given I', stop start commuting I might drop the regen off completely??  I can try some options once I get the USB happening.
When I run up the PI-200 S/W I get the constant beeping and then if you give up and hit disconnect it repopulates the fields with these settings figures.

I plugged the cables in as per the diagram without shortening them first just plugged them straight in and just rolled up the excess cable tiedd it out of the way, put the plugs inside  plastic cable junction to seal them out of the wheather.
Not very elegant but I wanted to play it safe and just get it going, after I had a few other wiring probs at the anderson plug so I would have been blaming myself if I had started there.
If I'm pulling it apart now I'm a lot more confident I think I'll go for it and rewire it anyhow whilst I'm at it. I must be getting the bug!

I'll do a last check of the setup and if no good I'll open it up, then I can wire them up directly to the connections if required.

Anyhow I have my full set of replacement spokes so I'm ready to rebuild my wheel (tks Gary) so I'll have a look at your previous post on breaking the case down first. I also have the respoking posts to get that right this time also.

Appreciate your advice.

Cheers
Mark