Hi All,
Two months later I'm back on the road. I would like to thank all of you and your support especially to Tom from Goldenmotor. I got a internal replacement controller shipped free of charge and was able to replace it. Huhhhh... and guess what it is working again. GREAT GREAT GREAT... hope it will run more than 200 km, fingers crossed. One thing I would like to ask and what also could have been the source of the problem. I installed the GM led front and back lights. The rear light has on contact connected to the bike frame. Since I have both cables the ground and the +48 volt to the lights I modified the back light so that the connection to the frame is disconnected. The back light worked perfekt. Also the front light has one connector connected to the frame. When I connected the ground to the connector which is connected to the frame and the +48 to the other the front light did not work. So I thought the front light is broken. Then I took the front light of the frame and switched the 2 wires. Then also the front light worked. Then I was a bit confused since with this configuration the +48 volts would be on the frame. I have a suspension front fork. I measured the resistance with an ohm meter from the led connector to the rest of the frame. It was very hight so I thout it is not connected to the rest of the frame and deceided to connect it kind in a wrong configuration. It worked in this configuration a couple of days. And then I had the break down described in this post. Maybe when the front suspension got pulled down the resistance became higher and a current could flow from the +48 to the frame. Alldough I don't have anything else connected to the frame of course execpt the hub motor, maybe it caused a shortcut! What do you think could it be the reason for the smoked internal pie controller? Why is the front led polartity wrong? Anybody else experienced the same with the GM front LED?
cheerse
