Using 48V 50A magic controller with 60v Is That POSSIBLE??

[fluxuss]

Hi
I am experimenting on this 48v 50a motor controller and as seen in topic a  I have a question.
I am using a 1000w Fuel cell as a power supply and its no load voltage is 60 volts
But if you draw current about 10 amps voltage drops to 49v

Soo my question is if I connect this controller to fuel cell , what will be the result?

A big black smoke or nothing?

If there is anyone opened the case of this controller ,can you tell me the what is written on MOSFETs and Voltage regulators

thank you !!

[Hardcore]

i read 63v is the maximum voltage so a 60v fully charged should work

[fluxuss]

oh thank you
Where did you see the maximum voltage rating do you have a link for this ?

[PEDAL IN POWER OUT]

It is the rating of the internal capacitors. They turn into firecrackers at 63.1 V.

[Hardcore]

yao yuan said it

[fluxuss]

oh I understand PEDAL IN POWER OUT . So if I change internal capacitors to higher rating like 72v do I have a chance to use it with 72 volts? Or I have to change voltage regulators also ?

[Bikemad]

oh thank you
Where did you see the maximum voltage rating do you have a link for this ?

Try this one

Alan
 

[Leslie]

The Fets are limited to 75v on my controller and yes the 63v caps.  The caps do explode but more chance of venting as designed but watch your eyes.  Put enough volts in and bang.

A 60v pack may charge up to 75v on a charger and float up to 69v and rest at 65v.  Thats SLA.  You can push 19 lifepo cells at 3.2v per cell and this will rest at approx 60v.

But when you charge it the controller must be disconnected from the pack.  No chance for error so put the charger feed on a opposite throw of your on off switch so you cant charge while the controller is attached.  More things might go wrong than capacitors when the charger is allowed to charge a pack to 68v or more.  The power resistors and regulators to the logic and gate drives can take a roasting in some controllers, especially when you over volt.

[PEDAL IN POWER OUT]

The idea is to not run the input voltage up to the rated voltage of the caps, or any other devices.
How about a  "margin of safety"?
Put >100 volt caps in it and run at least 10% LESS voltage than the max rating.
Unless one is buying premium components, these ratings are no better than plus or minus 10%.
On a bad day or with a bad batch, that could be plus or minus 20% .
A cap on the outer edge of the spec might pop or vent at less than 57 Volts.
(10% of 63 volts = 6.3 volts    63volts - 6.3 volts = 56.7 volts)
Maybe you have 69 volts to play with. Who knows?
Perhaps you will be lucky and the electrolytic capacitors will only ooze and vent hydrochloric acid inside your controller.
The fets are another issue.
Have fun kids, don't drive too fast. Keep the rubber side down...........
 

[fluxuss]

Have fun kids, don't drive too fast. Keep the rubber side down........... 

?t looks like ? have to change capacitors to 100v or higher voltage , and what about the capacity ?
Maybe 470uf @ 100v wont make a change.

 . Whats written on voltage regulators , I guess its 7805. 

And is there a way to completely disable Low Voltage Protection (LVP)? Maybe changing linear voltage regulator
to a switch mode regulator disables this feature.

thanks everyone




 

[Bikemad]

Sorry to spoil your fun, but I think the GM controllers may have a maximum voltage limit as well as the LVC.

My Magic Pie simply refused to work when I tried a battery combination with a voltage of over 60V.

As the Pie's controller appears to be based on the controller board used in the BAC models (magic controllers), it could well be that they also share the same high voltage protection, making it more difficult to modify for use with higher voltages.

Has anyone tried a BAC controller on more than 60V? 

Alan
 

[fluxuss]

oh
Bad news. Anyway I will try and I will share results in this board.
 Thanks everyone