Hi Rafa,
I don't think your problem will be in the stator windings because the 10kW motor has dual stators which are electrically isolated from each other apart from where their terminals join together at the controller.
If one of the stators had a break
(or a short circuit) in one of its phase windings, you would still be able to run the motor on the other stator
(but with reduced power) by simply disconnecting the phase wires coming from the faulty stator and completely isolating them, as the faulty stator would still generate an AC voltage output when the motor is spinning.
The 10kW motor also has two separate sets of Hall sensors and temperature sensors
(one for each stator assembly) so if one set fails, you simply plug in the other set in its place. Try swapping to the unused Hall sensor connector to see if the motor works.
To check the resistance of the stator windings you would need to check one stator at a time, and measure between Blue-Green, Green-Yellow and Yellow-Blue. The resistance should be similar on all three measurements
(on each of the two stators).
I suspect that you initially checked the resistance between the pairs of same coloured wires as each colour was removed, leaving the blue wires connected to the controller until they were removed and tested last of all, otherwise you should have seen no reading on all three pairs with all terminals isolated from each other:
Yellow-Yellow = no reading
Green-Green = no reading
Blue-Blue = no reading
Make sure that you definitely have the correct colour wires attached to the correct terminals on the controller.
The default connections should be as shown:
Yellow phase wires to terminal "U"
Green phase wires to terminal "V"
Blue phase wires to terminal "W"
If the wiring was changed to reverse the motor's default direction of rotation, you would also need to change the Hall sensor wiring to suit.
To reverse the motor's default direction of rotation from the standard wiring, the
Blue and
Yellow Phase wires must be swapped over on the controller terminals,
and the
Green and
Yellow Hall sensor wires must also be transposed on the Hall sensor wiring
(Ideally, the wiring on the controller side of the Hall sensor connector should be modified so that either set of Hall sensors (or a replacement motor or controller) would automatically be correctly connected).If you've altered any of the parameters
since the motor was working it is possible that one of the parameters that was changed could be responsible for the problem.
If you haven't altered the programming of the controller, it is more likely to be a poor connection somewhere in the wiring, unless you're really unlucky and the controller itself has somehow been damaged by the mysterious spark on the phase wires.
Alan
