Can't get VEC300 to run motor or connect software to program.

[Bikemad]

John, I have given this some more thought and I think I've finally managed to crack the code!



It looks like the Green Hall Sensor is working in reverse, either because it's a faulty/incorrect sensor or because it has been fitted the wrong way around.

If I reverse all the "0" and "1" outputs from the Green Hall Sensor this is the result:

Pos  Y  G  B
 1   0  0  1   OK
 2   1  0  1   OK
 3   1  0  0   OK
 4   1  1  0   OK
 5   0  1  0   OK
 6   0  1  1   OK
 7   0  0  1   OK
 8   1  0  1   OK
 9   1  0  0   OK
10   1  1  0   OK
11   0  1  0   OK
12   0  1  1   OK
13   0  0  1   OK
14   1  0  1   OK
15   1  0  0   OK
16   1  1  0   OK
17   0  1  0   OK
18   0  1  1   OK
19   0  0  1   OK
20   1  0  1   OK
21   1  0  0   OK
22   1  1  0   OK
23   0  1  0   OK
24   0  1  1   OK

Which is exactly what I would expect to see from that motor being rotated in a clockwise direction after studying the Hall Sensor Positions:



And the polarity of the magnets as shown here:



So, if your measurements are correct, I'm now 99% convinced that it must be the Green Hall Sensor that is causing the problem.

Although, the Green could actually be correct and it could be the Blue and Yellow which are both reversed.



Alan
 

[Electronic nut]

I did another First.  I published the hall-effect testing on Youtube.  I made too long of a video and it would not send as an email.   I sent you an email with the site:
On youtube, it is under Golden Motor BLDC Motor Testing.  I went to the site and watched it.  I could have done a lot better and if you think I should, I could make another and go the whole 24 steps. 
I also finally got an email from Kasen.  He advised that his engineer said the controller is bad and that I should send it back for repair.  I will reply back to him with the youtube site for his engineer to look at before I send controller back.
Let me know what you think should be done next.
Thanks         Did I say Thanks     Thanks very much. 
John

[Bikemad]

Hi John,

I could not access the video on your iCloud as I don't have an Apple device but I did watch the YouTube version and the operation and sequence of the LEDs would seem to be perfectly normal and just what I would expect for a motor with correctly working Hall Sensor.
Here is the sequence I observed from your video (ignoring the results where you held it slightly away from the natural resting position):

Y  G  B
0  1  0
0  1  1
0  0  1
1  0  1
1  0  0
1  1  0

This does not relate to your original data, which must have somehow been incorrectly documented:

      Y    G   B
 1    0   1   1   
 2    1   1   1   
 3    1   1   0   
 4    1   0   0   
 5    0   0   0   
 6    0   0   1   
 7    0   1   1   
 8    1   1   1   
 9    1   1   0   
10   1   0   0   
11   0   0   0   
12   0   0   1   
13   0   1   1   
14   1   1   1   
15   1   1   0   
16   1   0   0   
17   0   0   0   
18   0   0   1   
19   0   1   1   
20   1   1   1   
21   1   1   0   
22   1   0   0   
23   0   0   0   
24   0   0   1   

This test shows the one thing that I have found to be present at the bad spot.  I'll try to explain:  If you will look at the Yellow lead.  It is on by itself in step 4, 10, 16, and 22.     
The Blue lead is on by itself in step 6, 12, 18, and 24.
Now look at the GREEN lead.  It is never on by itself.  I didn't make a mistake on testing leads because I have done it over and over again.

I could not see any positions in the video where all three LEDs were either On or Off simultaneously, but your original data seemed to clearly indicated that they were.

However, as you can see below, the above sequence observed during the 90 degree shaft rotation shown in your video perfectly matches this six step sequence copied from my previous post where I reverse all the "0" and "1" outputs from your Green Hall Sensor results:

Pos  Y  G  B
 5   0  1  0   OK
 6   0  1  1   OK
 7   0  0  1   OK
 8   1  0  1   OK
 9   1  0  0   OK
10   1  1  0   OK


So this would indicate that my diagnosis of the Green Hall Sensor was in fact totally wrong   but I did say "if your measurements are correct". 

The third thing I have found is that when I made the tests, the hall effect leads were either at 5.0 Volts for on or around 0 for off. 
When the motor stops in bad spot, the green lead only has approx. 3 volts with the yellow and blue at 0 volts.

If the motor was physically held by the attached compressor unit so the edges of two magnets were in a mid position directly over the Green Hall sensor it would explain the “3 volt” reading you mentioned in a previous post (assuming the sensors are non-latching) but it doesn’t explain why both the Yellow and Blue Hall sensors were (according to the above information) both at 0V, as one of them should definitely have been switched High (~5V).

Perhaps an intermittent fault on either the Blue or Yellow Hall sensor could be the real cause of the non starting.


Alan