How can I test my magic Pie 3 without controller

[Thomas K]

Hi There Guys,

been a while since I've been here.
I have bought me another e-bike for daily use so my Magic Pie has been left in the garage for a while.
after the last controller I bought (external MP controller BAC 281 C)did not get me any results (totally no response except regenbraking) I gave up on working on it because I did not have the time.
in the past I had allot of problems with controller breaking down on me, so I finally ordered a Lyen controller now ( heard from several people it seems to be the best one can get).
now I would like to test if my motor is still OK without a controller attached to it.
does anyone know how (if)  I can do that?
i would like to be sure that its ok, before I connect the Lyen controller, so I won't wreck it in first instance.

must say I know little to nothing about electronics, but i'm willing to learn!!!
(if explained thoroughly)


also another question. does anyone have youtubefilm showing how to open an Magic Pie 3?
not that I need it now, but maybe if the motor isn't working I might need to do so to check wiring or sensors.

thanks in advance for all answers, and keep riding!

Thomas

[Thomas K]

Hi There,
 I finally found how to open the pie!
i checked to see if there were any loose wires, but could not find any.
also tested with multimeter.
 so now please! Does anyone knows if I can test the motor without the controller?
and if its possible, how should I do that?

i got a 48V 10 A battery to work with...

thanks in advance!

greetz,
Thomas

[skylinenitro]

Good day,

Here is something to try:  take your multimeter on the Ohms or resistance setting, and test each of the logical pairs of phase wires.  That means, one of your test leads will go on wire 1, and the other test lead on wire 2.  Then test wires 1 and 3, then test wires 2 and 3.  Now they should all read at or near the same resistance, and that resistance should be very low, like less than 10 ohms (I think around 1 ohm is a good number?). If that is true, go on to the next step.

Now turn your multimeter to the AC Volts setting, (less than 40v AC, if you have an analog meter), and your going to test each logical pair again, but this time, you will turn/spin the wheel by hand.  When the wheel spins, you should get some AC voltage.  If this is true, go to next step.

Now, connect the logical pairs together (like a dead short), and try to gently sping the wheel.  If the wheel is MUCH harder to turn, your wheel passed!  Don't try to spin the wheel in this mode for very long, as your stator and wires will heat up fast! 

Does that help?

[Leslie]

You could use a 5 amp 12v lamp, hook it in series through each phase.  You might get just over 4 amps through it.  Then test it and move the wheel, the amps should vary a lot and the light should vary brightness as you turn the wheel slowly, and your should feel equal resistance turning the wheel as you test each phase. 


Install your wheel into the drop outs, tuner the bike upside down, test  each phase with a 12v battery through the 12v bulb.

You can also get what is called a milliohm meter (expensive)..  Or you could get an inductance tester on some multimeter.  This is cheaper, but you have to pull the motor apart..

[Leslie]

Or What he said.  ^^

[Thomas K]

thanks for all answers guys but I think  my hall sensors failed me.
i'm currectly waitig for a respons on how to replace them, and how many I schould replace...


but thanks again !
Thomas

[skylinenitro]

Bahhh, you don't need hall sensors....  My died two years ago and I'm still going strong!

[Leslie]

I run one sensorless bike here.  Take offs can be a little awkward at times, but it beats having to fix your hall sensors as soon as they stop working.
.

[Thomas K]

so you don't need the sensors?
how do I modify that?
must say I need PAS, so maybe I cant go without them?

greetz,
Thomas