Stumped :/

[MechanaHands]

So here's the situation

1: Cruiser built with a MP2, Rear Wheel, 36V/500w  10ah worked great.


Side note: Before I had connect the MP2 to a battery I had used the old GM program to set up/get the hub configurations. It appeared to work fine....showing a connection/settings and accepted new configurations.


(Work bike with a MP2 Front wheel 48v/1000w 20ah.)

2:Twist the throttle motor accelerated, pulled in the brake lever to activate the regenerative braking (which it did) and after coming to a complete stop. Twist the throttle again to accelerate the motor, nothing  happened. Trouble shoot the connections everything check out out to be connected properly, nothing had come undone. This was all being conducted while in a bike stand so it was not under load or bouncing around. Now when I engage the brake lever/regen the lights on the throttle turn off until I release the brake lever.

3: Plugged in the USB "internal controller" to the MP2 Front Wheel  to see if resetting it to factory default would solve the problem. However this time connecting the MP2 Front wheel to the USB Internal controller it kept making a beeping sounds like so...Beep........Beep.......Beep, etc. It said it was connected but it was not actually able to configure the internal controller this time around. Then after a few attempts to get it to connect it was making a ticking sound in the hub.

So now I've taken the 48v throttle off and replaced it with my cruisers throttle which is a 36v, after installing it I gave it a test run and nothing happens. So now I've re-installed the 36v throttle back onto my cruiser and now my cruise is not working anymore. All lights are lit on my cruiser throttle and when I pump the brake the lights still stay on...I have no idea what happened or what cold be causing it to do this?


Jay

[MechanaHands]

Update:

I've taken my old kit that's not a MP but a 36V/500w hub and hooked it to the 36v  500 w battery and tried both throttles the 36 and 47V both lights come on but there is no acceleration at all...

[MechanaHands]

Can something happen to the throttle, I'm starting to think it's the throttle...After trying another bike that is compatible with the program used to calibrate the hub the two throttles are not working. So could something have happened to the throttle after the MP2 Front Hub had been calibrated with the old software?

[Leslie]

Hi MechanaHands,   You seem to be in a spot of bother mate.

You might need a multimeter to test the throttle line voltages..  The controller may have the wires wrongly configured.

To use USB the power to controller I think it must be off first and USB feeds the power to the rom for configuration purposes.. It the wires are wrong your USB program cable could be fried if you left the power on.

Also because I hard wire my stuff, the led indicator and front-rear light wires, is always an accident waiting to happen. Its full volts that wire, so I ommit the wire with cutters ASAP.  Its the first wire I look for when wiring up my bikes and cut it off without a moments thought.  If I want full pack voltage I can get it any time after I secured and protected all the sesitive wires first.  This also makes me test the wires before I start pairing plugging or soldering.  The power Leds I believe are only good for SLA packs anyway.

Not sure its been a year.

I usually leave the throttle lights out of the mix.  Each led consumes 20ma each.   maybe cost an extra 3 watts on top the 3 watts the contoller consumes.  Might add up to 7 watts. 

Leave bike on one day = 168 watts
Leave bike on two days = 336 watts
leave bike on three days 504 watts

Leave bike on for 24 hours after a long ride. Not good for battery. 

Because I run both thumb and twist thottles if I used the leds, count 10 watts per hour.

I think failure may result from the BMS not working properly when parasitic currents run the battery down.  One rep technition from GM "TOM" explained this loooong ago.  Not sure if they raised the BMS LVC cut off on the recent models or made it sensitve. 

LVC below 3v/cell wont get you more than a few hundred meters down the road.  My ex BMS was set at 3v per cell.  It worked well to protect the pack.


Because of the nature of the purchase you cant really rely on a single mistake whether it be your mistake or GM's mistake. 

Warranty is such a bint and as you see, things can progressivly go from "OK" to "no way" in a short amount of time..