Cycle Analyst Settings for Magic Pie speed control

[Leslie]

In actual fact any on the spot fine in the UK without submission to contract under the road law authority is unconstitutional and violates the UK bill of rights,.


"That all grants and promises of fines and forfeitures of particular persons before conviction are illegal and void"

If you agree when you sign your name at the license registry to obey the road regulations then you are in contract and must submit to fines.

If you don't need a license, and you don't sign at the registry and not have to undertake a rules and vehicle operation exame then you have submitted to jack.

On the spot helmet fines and the like you can ask to have it seen in court otherwise you don't have to pay any fine.

One's defense in the court room against a helmet fine is very strong and correct in a just legal system.

The spot hustle for an $80 bike helmet fine by use employed armed men and aggressive force is dictionary definition armed robbery by the state to the people.

The principal of the UK bill of rights is being ignored.

"That all grants and promises of fines and forfeitures of particular persons before conviction are illegal and void"

This is to make sure that the states can not make fines for breathing or blinking your eyes too much and collecting from the poor and powerless with no overseers or peer review, so to avoid corruption of any local, state, or national authority.


Strangely UK constitution still effects us Aussies in some ways and I reckon I could pull this bill into an Aussie court of law and run it home.

[DirtyGinge]

Hi All

Many thanks for the major feedback........appreciated all

To be honest, my main decision in buying  a Magic Pie over a normal wheel is that I honestly think its better to run a motor @ 50% of its capacity, rather than rag an underpowered motor at 100% of its capability every day......

my experience is that the motor wont have a great lifespan, but since buying the Magic Pie, then reading the full regulations properly ( like pedelec etc), I find the regs totally unbelieveable...I mean what difference if I pedel or throttle, as long as the bike is speed limit 15 ??, just plain silly...however I do understand the need for the speed /power restrictions, as we were all kids once ( and some still are ), a 15 year old kid on a 30mph bike on footpath is bound to end up badly.......I do like the idea of power speed restrictions, icy conditions, range extension ......and Ive come off my bike too many times at speed to find it fun anymore

Strangely my 1.5 tonne family wagon is far more dangerous, yet the law trusts me to drive that within regulations, but my bicycle must be force limited......

I don't want to be irresponsible or overly speedy, dangerous or any of that, but lets face it, im quite fat, old and 250W don't cut it cycling 40 miles per day in winter...

p.s. subtle hint....magnetic reed switch embedded in handlebar inside with magnet from hard drive on neck chain....magnet applied to handlebar in invisible spot X, power...magnet removed...no power.....no visible switch.....


Once again many thanks for all your help

regards

[Leslie]

The magnet idea is interesting you could use a hall sensor or your reed and a relay and make it the main switch.  Nice idea for an invisible key switch and any magnet will fit the hole so if you lose your key one can be found easy enough.

Hmmm thanks for this idea.

And I just picked this up.

 

iterm max    3.79
iterm min   1.00

Interm min should be set 1v below interm max.  The way Im seeing this is that the throttle signal recieves one volt in speed limit mode which 1 v = 0 speed in limit mode or only very slow.

So interm at 2.79 was the figure suggested as per Gary's post.

The higher you have on interm min the throttle will limit less.  The lower you have interm min you will feel the limitation more and the dynamics of the limitation get to wide and the bike starts to stop start instead of limit gentle like.

You did get this post?

If you were to be testing your bike with no load like with the wheel off the ground maybe and set your speed down to slow on the CA and have this interm min setting at 1v

This would make the wheel take off at full speed then stop and take off again and make some confusion in how to use the throttle.

3.78v > 1v> 3.78v >1v

It would behave like some one was strobing the throttle with a switch at full twist.  Crazy.

You set the interm min to 2.78v then lower it by .2v each test ride till your set speed in the CA is applied, is effective, and smooth.

[Leslie]

Oh and be sure to set your max speed at something sensible like 20mph as slow speed settings like 3mph with higher interm min 2.78v will have no effect other than limit the max speed of your bike regardless of you speed setting, and slow speed settings will have a jerk on and off unpredictable effect with low interm min settings like 1v.

I took another read of Gary's post and I think an interm min of approx 2.2 with MPH settings to higher than 20MPH.

Also 30mph is a little high so measure your wheel circumference and input it into your CA wheel circumference field.

[DirtyGinge]

Hi All

Many thanks for all the kind help......

Being a forum newbie in the GM forum, its really helpful to get ideas, and not know ive done something really stupid,
 
inevitably it will be my fault, as with all newbie's, but I relaly appreciate all of your help....

So it appears that I have a diode that doesnt sink enough ma, and managed to wire the throttle prior to the resistor as opposed to after, hence plentiful supply of current to split both directions

Dont know why I was getting erratic behaviour though, as the diode was the correct way around......

However, some of your posts have really helped me in the correct setup of the unit, so your time has not been wasted and indeed I am really grateful, hope the reed switch idea helps as payback somewhat to some of you.....working fine for me, cuts the 5V feed to the throttle....sure I get a beep but thats all ( just make sure you include an override for your cruise, or maybe use a workaround with resistor for .8V to keep the throttle line open, otherwise the cruise control button will enter override mode, pressing will give you instant half power

Luv n stuff

Regards

[Leslie]

You can use a schottky diode instead,  There is a 1 amp 40v part available and will only drop .3v over the diode instead of .8v like a normal diode.  With less voltage drop over the diode it will have a higher voltage and this means the diode will allow more volts and ma through both the diode and resistor there.

I hope this helps.

[DirtyGinge]

once again, all, many thanks ...

finalised the settings on the way home in the pouring rain ( extra half hour, tweak tweak swear at the rain, tweak) ( then got drunk so excuse the misspells) , might be handy for some of my EU companions

PSgain .18
initsgain                  500
initagain                  700   ( seems a little slower at lowering amps limit over speed milit, especially on pull offs..)
initvgain                  800   ( as im not ready for hellrider impressions just yet)
itermmax                 4.30  ) admitadly may be a bit high, but measured by multimeter as top throttle voltage)
itermmin                  1.60   ( seems to be the nice 15MPH setting, with quick rebound, not dropping to far below, for slow recovery, hold cruise nicely)
maxthrottle              4.30  ( again, please measure yourselves, just my findings)

with these settings, I set speed limit at 15MPH, amps at 6 ( 48*6/. giving my calculate roughly 235W continuous output assuming 80% efficiency on the motor between input and  output watts) ( christ, ive been studying the forums like hell, what a difference a week can make)

I must say, after spending the week in the pouring rain with 90 PSI road MTB tyres, the lower torque given by the 6 amp limit has given me a much "grippier" ride home( damn white lines and drain covers), and only made 5 minutes difference being "legal" in the rain over unrestricted... ( and its pissed rain here all week, round trip is 20 miles, 5 urban, 15 country )

In icy conditions, this unit will be an absolute godsend, and im sure will help the front forks, and also the top end wastage of top end amp load on hills, along with my gel saddle

now im still newbie, so if ive got anything wrong, please, I welcome input, as ( goes into drunk mode), learning is a journey, not a destination......


Thanks to you all, I have felt very welcome with your knowledge and enthusiasm

[GM Canada]

Hi Paul

I missed a day here and checked back to see how you made out. Quite well from what I see. That's what I love about this forum.

I read your settings and they are very simular to mine. Except for ItermMin. I think I might have made a mistake with that comment. There us an actual formula for that I received in an email conversation with justin. He asked me what my full throttle and throttle at rest voltages were.

Hi Justin
 
Full Throttle 3.76 Volts
Throttle at rest 0.9 Volts

Gary

OK, then when you are going in the direct current control mode, you should set ITermMax and ITermMin to these values.  When you are running the system in throttle over-ride mode, then you should use these values minus a 0.6V diode drop (so 0.3V and 3.2V).

Justin
 

I believe 'Direct current control' is the method when you solder a wire to the VI (using this method your regular cruise control will not work) and the throttle over-ride mode is the method when you solder a wire to the TH and use diode-ressitor method we are reffering to in this thread.

After finding this old email (April 2009) I checked my bike and my throttle maximum and minimum voltages are 4.12v and .9v. So subtracting .6v from each I set my settings to: ItermMax 3.5v and ItermMin to .3v. I have yet to test ride it to see how it works.  I haven't ridden my bike in two days its getting cold and rainy lately, winter is coming. Such a low ItermMin does seem to contradict its description in the manual.

Gary
 

[DirtyGinge]

Hi Gary

Many thanks

My initial testing found that the lower iterm min was dropping down below 15 on the speed, then taking time to bounce back up again, at 1.4 seemed ok, but 1.6 for me got me cruising nicely at 15 and very responsive, bouncing straight back if there was a drop in speed.....

Probable difference is that I am 100KG, and bike is 40, so probably needs more throttle to move me , and thinking about it, makes sense that the voltages would be weight specific, im sure a 60-70 kg rider would require less manipulation of the throttle voltage ?  (poor little hub motor, not a nice life)

Thanks for the help , I love the forum, everyone is so helpful

Regards

[GM Canada]

But I have read somewhere it maybe in an earlier version that you cant have current limitation and speed limitation t the same time, something about the CA being confused attempting to control both at the same time.  I think LVC is different as it doesnt need to use the same throttle limitation code to get the job done.

Actually the CA does a nice job of limiting the speed, amps, and voltage all at the same time. The speed limiter is great and works very well. I like the amps limit as I can leave the Pie at default settings. The low voltage limit is great as well because you can set it and not worry about going to low on voltage. The bike just stops performing as well as it was and you know when its time to go home!

Gary