GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions => Topic started by: Mountain on September 13, 2010, 07:00:19 PM
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Hello
I removed the internal controller and replaced it with the external controller (in summer problems with terperature and also the regen brake was too strong and it was not programmable (model before March 2010).
The external controller did a good job. The max curret was about 25A, also the regen brake was good.
But I tried to change the regen brake.
I separated the akku from the controller, connected the USB cable to the controller and changed the value of regen brake.
After change the motor was very weak although the datas stored in the controller (button GetConfig) was Continuous 25A and Peak 27A, the maximum power consumption was about 10A. Whe I increase the current Countinous 30A and Peak 50A the max power consumption is only about 15A.
Can someone help me ?
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Hi
Q: Was this the first time EVER this controller was manipulated with the software?
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Hello Jensenff
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, this was the first time I have changed the datas at this controller.
If I use the internal controller outside (with a big heatsink) the motor is very powerfull but this controller ist not
programmalbe (the regen brake is too strong).
The pedelec plug is not connected to the controller (I tried also with pedelec sensor) and the reverse switch is not connected to the harness.
The horn does not beep (perhaps no malfutions).
Following datas are adjusted. (but I tried also different other values)
Continous:26A; Peak:27A; MotorType BLDC brushless(MgicPie) Phase 120Grad; PAS: High; Direktion: FWD;
MotorVoltage: 36V; FWD 100%; REV: Disable; Brake: 65%.
Kind regards an thank you
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Try changing your voltages mate
I assume your wheel was preset at 24V, I've only just found this out now.
48v I can guess my controller draws half the current, but a bit better top speed.
24v the thing absolutely launches !!
Try changing back to 24v?
Cheers
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Hello MonkeyMagic
I have also tested the 24Volt, but I can see no change.
In a brochure of golden motor are malfunctions are listed.
For example:
"Throttle malfuctions: Whem the throttle fails to function correctly, the controller will beep three times. In this situation, press and hold the cruise control button to drive your bike at half the maximum speed. The controller will automatically return to its original status when the problem is resolved.
Power-brake lever malfunction: If the power-brakes lever malfuction , twist / press the throttle for at least repeately four times. The controller will then beep four times if this malfunction is detected. Similary, press and hold the cruise control button to drive your bike at half the maximum speed. The controller will automatically return to its original status when the problem is resolved."
I can not hear beeps, and with the old internal controller it works.
I think perhaps there is an error in the controller which starts the malfunction programm. (half speed or about half power or less)
I have programmed the controller with a 2. USB cable and an 2. Computer - without a positiv result.
I have also separatet the controlle completely from the harness and akku and programmed - no result.
A few days ago, I wrote tom "Tom <zhourenli@goldenmotor.com>" an e-Mail - I hope he has an idea.
Kind regards
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No Toms new email is tom@goldenmotor.com..
Thank you. :)
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Same thing happened with mine, it was using about 20 amps on pull away until I used the USB cable to program it. After that all I could get out of the external controller was 15amps, wouldn't make it up my drive.
So.......I modded it with it pulling way over 70amps and wheel spinning everywhere on 48v. Changed to a 40amp external by another company as it was just way too powerful with the modded MP controller and something would have burnt out somewhere, although the batteries could easily take it.
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Then it's two who positively confirm after first time use of USB - programming the controller you get less amps.
There must be some kind of software restriction applied to the controller when using the programmer.
Previously I tried to 'hack' the communication during programming with a usb-listener, without luck. I gave up , I was not shure if it was a track to follow. I did it because I thought my 15A restriction might be software - related. I could not get good comparison, since I had a mix of 24V SLA / 36V GM battery at first and used USB with this setup.
Again, I feel now more certain it could be some kindof software - restriction we apply when we use the usb - programmer.
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Thank you 317537; Spacey; Jensenff
Now I have again written to Tom and I told him referred to the topic in the forum.
If I receive an answer from him I will tell the information to the forum.
Kind regards Mountain
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Hello
I'm sorry I can not post any news, have not got information by Tom.
Kind regards
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That's customer service with a smile >:(
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Hello
I wrote Tom on 9th and 21th of Semptember an e-Mail relating my controller problem.
But so far I have not received any response. >:(
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So far I have not received response from Tom - I think there is no solution! >:(
I opened the external controller and made the shunt thicker. I programmed 8 amps continious and 8 amps max. The actual power consumption is max. 23 amps. That is fine. I use 36 Volt, it was also necessary to programm to 24 Volt.
As I was forced to inform me about controller I found a controller which can change the braking effect while driving.
This will be my next projekt
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Up to now I have not received an e-Mail from Tom
I think an e-mail will be thrown in the trash when there is no solution.
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You may need to do what I did.
Take the old controller remove the shunt and install it with the new controller shunt too.
But beware. I have found you can get about 10~15 more amps if you dare. You can just shorten/ thicken the controller shunt with a bit of solder to gain 10 amps.
I could of prolly did 80 max amps through my modded controller until it met a drill bit, but my battery would not do this for a long time.
I must remind you I only rode around on this controller for two days before I ran a drill bit into the PCB.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2475.0;attach=3587;image)
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Thank you very much 317537
I strengthen the shunt, then the max ampere consumption was too high. Then I modified with the software the max. ampere.
With the software I have set 9 ampere, the actually max. ampere is 29 ampere.
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Thank you very much 317537
I strengthen the shunt, then the max ampere consumption was too high. Then I modified with the software the max. ampere.
With the software I have set 9 ampere, the actually max. ampere is 29 ampere.
That sounds wild! Set at 9, actual 29! The torque must be crazy. What is the top speed?
Gary
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Hello, the maximum speed is 31 km/h (36 Volt).
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Hi !
I have another problem:
I tried to change the direction of rotation (through programming) but no results :(
The second problem:
When I press "GetConfig" always show me the same parameters :o, regardless of which controller I check and what the previously set.
I thought that it might be damage to the interface but it shows the messages "GetConfig Succes", "Connect Succes" etc ...
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hi i'm still find the good post for my problem...!
it's the same problem of mountain : programing to 30A and give 15A ?
there is no other solution to shunt ?
it is really a programmable controller ?
sorry for the quality of the movie it's whit my old phone...!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxAUZrP8h6I
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it's ok, the shunt is the solution....thanks.
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Hi Gary ( GM Canada)
this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou
anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??
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Hi Gary ( GM Canada)
this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou
anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??
Since you are kind of "holding my feet to the fire" on this one, I have looked into this and here is what I have found out. Some is theory and some is fact, but I believe all of it to be true. When the MP1's came out quite a few of them died simply because as we all suspected the controllers got to hot inside the case. That being said there are a lot more people still riding around on MP1's then the failures we have all seen in this forum. I would say from my sales and number of failures I had on MP1 the ratio is well over 25 good ones to one failure and the numbers are probably better than that. Then Came MP2, wheel centered and programmable controller. Actually I can’t even recall if the first mp2’s were programmable(age is a terrible thing). Seems to me everyone was booting around having a great time. Then people started using the usb cables and suddenly losing amps. As more MP2’s came from the factory the controllers were pulled back to stop the failures. Probably as most of us feel pulled back to far. I suspect in the early stages of the pull back a lot of motors went out without being set with the USB. These motors were as powerful as the originals. Then once the USB cable was used the amps were reduced.
I experienced this myself. I first had an MP2 on the back of my bike when it was a single motor rear wheel drive. On my way to work full tilt uphill it would kick out by overheat protection after about 10k. It would take 5-6 minutes to cool off and then go again. After about a week I used the usb cable to try and cut back the power a bit to stop this cutout. I discovered it was set at 24 volts. So I set it at 48 volts and whamo, less power. I then set it at 24 volts and the power was back. Not as much as there was at first though. Some people get there power back going back to 24 volts and some do not. I don’t know why. I still continued to use it to go to work and it was fine but since I always wanted to go dual drive I did it and never looked back.
The word from Philip is they are working on this issue and improvements are on the way. I cannot elaborate any further than that. What I can say is in my short time with GM I have seen products improve, new products released, more improvements, more new products, etc. There is no doubt more of this is on the way.
"This message will self distruct 30 seconds after you read it!'
Gary
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Is there a solution to this problem yet? I am experiencing the same issue here. Quite a lot loss of power after using the "programming user interface" (USB). Regardless of which volts option (24/36/48) I set. Before the use of USB it worked like a charm. (Never touch a running system.)
I am using a MagicPie with internal controller (rear), ordered a few weeks ago and 36V16Ah battery.
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ravemaster you are saying that since you have used your USB cable the performance is worse??
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I am afraid so it is. The torque dropped significantly after use of the USB cable. I am not able to revert it as it was originally.
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Hi Gary ( GM Canada)
this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou
anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??
Since you are kind of "holding my feet to the fire" on this one, I have looked into this and here is what I have found out. Some is theory and some is fact, but I believe all of it to be true. When the MP1's came out quite a few of them died simply because as we all suspected the controllers got to hot inside the case. That being said there are a lot more people still riding around on MP1's then the failures we have all seen in this forum. I would say from my sales and number of failures I had on MP1 the ratio is well over 25 good ones to one failure and the numbers are probably better than that. Then Came MP2, wheel centered and programmable controller. Actually I can’t even recall if the first mp2’s were programmable(age is a terrible thing). Seems to me everyone was booting around having a great time. Then people started using the usb cables and suddenly losing amps. As more MP2’s came from the factory the controllers were pulled back to stop the failures. Probably as most of us feel pulled back to far. I suspect in the early stages of the pull back a lot of motors went out without being set with the USB. These motors were as powerful as the originals. Then once the USB cable was used the amps were reduced.
I experienced this myself. I first had an MP2 on the back of my bike when it was a single motor rear wheel drive. On my way to work full tilt uphill it would kick out by overheat protection after about 10k. It would take 5-6 minutes to cool off and then go again. After about a week I used the usb cable to try and cut back the power a bit to stop this cutout. I discovered it was set at 24 volts. So I set it at 48 volts and whamo, less power. I then set it at 24 volts and the power was back. Not as much as there was at first though. Some people get there power back going back to 24 volts and some do not. I don’t know why. I still continued to use it to go to work and it was fine but since I always wanted to go dual drive I did it and never looked back.
The word from Philip is they are working on this issue and improvements are on the way. I cannot elaborate any further than that. What I can say is in my short time with GM I have seen products improve, new products released, more improvements, more new products, etc. There is no doubt more of this is on the way.
"This message will self distruct 30 seconds after you read it!'
Gary
Is this true for external magic controllers as well I haven't used my usb lead yet
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im too scared, I have an external 22 amp controller, with potential pie resale value.......its sorta like a vesectomy, sure the bag is still there, but it just don't feel the same....
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Finally I got the power back. The fault was in the handling of the software. After pressing the button "factory setting" you *MUST NOT* press the "store/save" button. Otherwise you overwrite again the factory settings you restored in the first place. I hope this info is useful for others.