Author Topic: Controller problems  (Read 17827 times)

Offline Mountain

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #15 on: January 20, 2011, 12:11:13 PM »
Thank you very much 317537

I strengthen the shunt, then the max ampere consumption was too high. Then I modified  with the software the max. ampere.
With the software I have set 9 ampere, the actually max. ampere is 29 ampere.
« Last Edit: January 20, 2011, 12:19:34 PM by Mountain »

Offline GM Canada

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2011, 12:23:43 AM »
Thank you very much 317537

I strengthen the shunt, then the max ampere consumption was too high. Then I modified  with the software the max. ampere.
With the software I have set 9 ampere, the actually max. ampere is 29 ampere.

That sounds wild! Set at 9, actual 29! The torque must be crazy. What is the top speed?

Gary

Offline Mountain

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2011, 06:03:22 AM »
Hello,  the maximum speed is 31 km/h  (36 Volt).

Offline tomasz

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2011, 11:06:47 AM »
Hi !

I have another problem:
I tried to change the direction of rotation (through programming) but no results :(

The second problem:
When I press "GetConfig" always show me the same parameters  :o, regardless of which controller I check and what the previously set.

I thought that it might be damage to the interface but it shows the messages "GetConfig Succes", "Connect Succes" etc ...

Offline LOLO

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2011, 09:17:16 PM »
hi i'm still find the good post for my problem...!
it's the same problem of mountain : programing to 30A and give 15A ?
there is no other solution to shunt ?
it is really a programmable controller ?
sorry for the quality of the movie it's whit my old phone...!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxAUZrP8h6I

Offline LOLO

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #20 on: February 10, 2011, 08:15:04 PM »
it's ok, the shunt is the solution....thanks.

Offline DirtyGinge

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2011, 09:53:44 PM »
Hi Gary ( GM Canada)

this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou


anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??

Infineon lyen edition 12 Fet
Goldenmotor Magic pie rear ....2000 Watt peak
oh yea.....Im too fat :)...but cute, oh yea, im cute

Offline GM Canada

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #22 on: February 11, 2011, 01:47:28 AM »
Hi Gary ( GM Canada)

this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou


anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??



Since you are kind of "holding my feet to the fire" on this one, I have looked into this and here is what I have found out. Some is theory and some is fact, but I believe all of it to be true.  When the MP1's came out quite a few of them died simply because as we all suspected the controllers got to hot inside the case. That being said there are a lot more people still riding around on MP1's then the failures we have all seen in this forum. I would say from my sales and number of failures I had on MP1 the ratio is well over 25 good ones to one failure and the numbers are probably better than that. Then Came MP2, wheel centered and programmable controller. Actually I can’t even recall if the first mp2’s were programmable(age is a terrible thing).  Seems to me everyone was booting around having a great time. Then people started using the usb cables and suddenly losing amps. As more MP2’s came from the factory the controllers were pulled back to stop the failures. Probably as most of us feel pulled back to far. I suspect in the early stages of the pull back a lot of motors went out without being set with the USB. These motors were as powerful as the originals. Then once the USB cable was used the amps were reduced.

I experienced this myself.  I first had an MP2 on the back of my bike when it was a single motor rear wheel drive. On my way to work full tilt uphill it would kick out by overheat protection after about 10k. It would take 5-6 minutes to cool off and then go again. After about a week I used the usb cable to try and cut back the power a bit to stop this cutout. I discovered it was set at 24 volts. So I set it at 48 volts and whamo, less power. I then set it at 24 volts and the power was back. Not as much as there was at first though. Some people get there power back going back to 24 volts and some do not. I don’t know why. I still continued to use it to go to work and it was fine but since I always wanted to go dual drive I did it and never looked back.

The word from Philip is they are working on this issue and improvements are on the way. I cannot elaborate any further than that. What I can say is in my short time with GM I have seen products improve, new products released, more improvements, more new products, etc. There is no doubt more of this is on the way.

"This message will self distruct 30 seconds after you read it!'

Gary

Offline ravemaster8210

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #23 on: May 14, 2011, 09:41:31 AM »
Is there a solution to this problem yet? I am experiencing the same issue here. Quite a lot loss of power after using the "programming user interface" (USB). Regardless of which volts option (24/36/48) I set. Before the use of USB it worked like a charm. (Never touch a running system.)

I am using a MagicPie with internal controller (rear), ordered a few weeks ago and 36V16Ah battery.
MPII(rear) 36V16Ah

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2011, 11:39:27 PM »
ravemaster you are saying that since you have used your USB cable the performance is worse??


Offline ravemaster8210

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #25 on: May 15, 2011, 03:48:52 PM »
I am afraid so it is. The torque dropped significantly after use of the USB cable. I am not able to revert it as it was originally.
MPII(rear) 36V16Ah

Offline gf3

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #26 on: May 15, 2011, 06:34:43 PM »
Hi Gary ( GM Canada)

this was the thread I was prompting....i know the internal will always have less amps than the external, but on my external imscared to use the usb cable, as clearly using it, something is limiting the controller after the USB cable is usedou


anything you can do with Tom to get an inside scoop ??



Since you are kind of "holding my feet to the fire" on this one, I have looked into this and here is what I have found out. Some is theory and some is fact, but I believe all of it to be true.  When the MP1's came out quite a few of them died simply because as we all suspected the controllers got to hot inside the case. That being said there are a lot more people still riding around on MP1's then the failures we have all seen in this forum. I would say from my sales and number of failures I had on MP1 the ratio is well over 25 good ones to one failure and the numbers are probably better than that. Then Came MP2, wheel centered and programmable controller. Actually I can’t even recall if the first mp2’s were programmable(age is a terrible thing).  Seems to me everyone was booting around having a great time. Then people started using the usb cables and suddenly losing amps. As more MP2’s came from the factory the controllers were pulled back to stop the failures. Probably as most of us feel pulled back to far. I suspect in the early stages of the pull back a lot of motors went out without being set with the USB. These motors were as powerful as the originals. Then once the USB cable was used the amps were reduced.

I experienced this myself.  I first had an MP2 on the back of my bike when it was a single motor rear wheel drive. On my way to work full tilt uphill it would kick out by overheat protection after about 10k. It would take 5-6 minutes to cool off and then go again. After about a week I used the usb cable to try and cut back the power a bit to stop this cutout. I discovered it was set at 24 volts. So I set it at 48 volts and whamo, less power. I then set it at 24 volts and the power was back. Not as much as there was at first though. Some people get there power back going back to 24 volts and some do not. I don’t know why. I still continued to use it to go to work and it was fine but since I always wanted to go dual drive I did it and never looked back.

The word from Philip is they are working on this issue and improvements are on the way. I cannot elaborate any further than that. What I can say is in my short time with GM I have seen products improve, new products released, more improvements, more new products, etc. There is no doubt more of this is on the way.

"This message will self distruct 30 seconds after you read it!'

Gary

Is this true for external magic controllers as well I haven't used my usb lead yet

Offline DirtyGinge

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #27 on: May 15, 2011, 07:26:24 PM »
im too scared, I have an external 22 amp controller, with potential pie resale value.......its sorta like a vesectomy, sure the bag is still there, but it just don't feel the same....
Infineon lyen edition 12 Fet
Goldenmotor Magic pie rear ....2000 Watt peak
oh yea.....Im too fat :)...but cute, oh yea, im cute

Offline ravemaster8210

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Re: Controller problems
« Reply #28 on: May 16, 2011, 03:51:56 PM »
Finally I got the power back. The fault was in the handling of the software. After pressing the button "factory setting" you *MUST NOT* press the "store/save" button. Otherwise you overwrite again the factory settings you restored in the first place. I hope this info is useful for others.

MPII(rear) 36V16Ah