GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: GM Canada on July 25, 2009, 03:31:29 PM
-
I would like to order the led lights for my 48v system. There is no option but to add a 36v light set to my cart. Is the 36v light system good for 48v as well?
-
hi, I had the same questions - was ordering 48V LED lights and was told by GM that currently only 36V LEDs are available. Following a copy of my changed order:
"...I confirm after our skype conversation the following changes in our order:
1) the front and back lights are the same for all voltages, thus we still order them as foreseen
2) as the LED lamps for the lights are currently only available in a 36V version, we order for all lights 36V LED lamps
3) as 36V LED lamps have a shorter life when used with a 48V battery, we would receive replacement 48V lamps as soon as available with the next shipment
best regards
PS: to be precise - the 'light' is the entire component including fixture, reflector, cable, etc. - the 'lamp' is the LED replacement for the traditional screw type bulb.
-
OK, If I understand corectly you order a 36v system and somehow notify them you actually want to use it for 48v. They ship you 36v system you use that then they ship you 48v leds whent they receive them. Do they automaticaly ship the 48v leds when they get them. Is there an extra charge for the 48v leds when they come?
Gary
-
hi Gary, the system (battery, controller, ... and lights) we ordered was for 48V. The 'LED-bulbs' are currently available only for 36V. It is possible to use these LEDs in a 48V system, however at a reduced life time (probably, due to the higher current - maybe they are brighter though?). As we order frequently with GM we asked to ship replacement LEDs as soon as available - I don't know if they will charge any extra for LED-bulbs, these are shown on their website though without any price indication. r
-
maybe you can replace the LED bulbs with 48V from radio shat
-
All you need to do to use 36 volt LED light fixtures in a 48 volt system is to put a resistor in series with the light fixture. Put in the amount of resistance required till there is a maximum of 42 volts (the voltage of a fully charged 36v battery) as measured across the light fixture. The cost for the resistor(s) is next to nothing.
Measure the current or read it in the specs and use a resistor that can handle that current. For instance, if the LED fixture draws 50ma at 36v then the watts going thru it are 1.8. This means a 2watt or higher resistor would do the job. Four quarter watt resistors in parallel equals 1 watt capability etc.
I would find burning out LEDs due to overpowering them unacceptable.
-
maybe you can replace the LED bulbs with 48V from radio shat
All LEDs are low voltage. White LEDs are usually about 4 volts. Any more will burn them out due to too much current flow. Red LEDs are closer to 2 volts. No such thing as a 48v LED.
You put LEDs in series to increase their voltage capacity or you put in voltage regulation (current limiting) of some type.
-
Did anybody try the 36v ledlights on their 48V system yet?
I have the 36v lamps and am going to install them on my 48v system soon.
Hope somebody has some experiance to share.
Took the backlight bulb out. Only says -36v-
No watts specs found yet.
Will have to wait a bit before I receive the battery to be able to test that.
Anybody know which and how many resistors to use yet?
Best regards,
Jeroen
-
No watts specs found yet.
Anybody know which and how many resistors to use yet?
GM quote less than 2W operating power for both lights.
As LEDs usually require approximately 20mA (0.020Amp) of current, I would suggest using a single 680 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor (or two 330 Ohm 1/4 watt resistors wired in series) for each of the two lamp units.
This should effectively reduce the 48V supply voltage (and also limit the current) to a safe level, suitable for the 36V LED lamps.
Alan
-
Did anybody try the 36v ledlights on their 48V system yet?
I use 36v lights on my Hybrid 48 volt bike. Three months so far no problem. I asume they will not last as long as if they were on a 36 volt system but they seem to be working fine.
Gary
-
Hello Gary,
I think I will go with your solution. Please keep me updated on when your bulbs blow or not at all.
I will keep you updated as well. Can always ad some resistors but when it seems to work fine why alter.
Best regards,
Jeroen
www.beeldhout.nl (http://www.beeldhout.nl)
-
Ive tried a few things. Resistors get too hot and so do linear regulators and need a big heat sink.
At one stage I used 3 lm317t chips to bump the voltage down to 12v the efficiency was really bad.
http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?PHPSESSID=63448252dcf451bd7f5405a6a4fff502&topic=1566.0 (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?PHPSESSID=63448252dcf451bd7f5405a6a4fff502&topic=1566.0)
Design based on the LM2576HV.
Components.
LM2576HV 5 pin simple switcher IC. Data sheet (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2576.pdf)<<<<
Hand wound 1650uh inductor.
1,2k series metal resistors feedback divider from ground.
10.54k series metal resistors, in series with 5k variable resistor with 1.4k parallel resistor = 1.2k. 10.54k to 11.7k total feedback divider from output.
100uf input filter capacitor
25v 2200uf capacitor output filter capacitor.
Heatsink.
Hand drawn diy etched circuit board.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/Leddriver.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/Ledriver2.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/Ledriver3.jpg)
Specs:
Input: Tested on 48v 36v and 24v packs. OK
Output:12v to 13.2v adjustable.
500ma to 750ma efficient regulation.
75% to 85% efficiency. Unconfirmed but it runs very cool. Just above ambient temperatures.
Switching speed 52khz
I can make these regulate 60v to 3v however I want to run these on 12v auto leds and any and all 12v products, If you rewind the inductor with heavier gauge enamel copper and less turns you can draw 3 amps out of the lm2976hv chip. I wanted efficiency in the 500ma range.
These chips can also be used as drivers for fets for higher voltages and much higher currents.
Above is a link and post is the best solution I could find. I can make these DC converters over the afternoon.
This one is designed to do led's at 12v and could easily be modded to run a 36v output from a 60v max with great efficiency with up to 3amps current.
The above has been tested on 24v, 36v and a 48v input. Though it best efficient at 48v input with 12v~13v output. For 37v around at 500ma use a largish yellow iron powdered inductor rated at 50khz with about 1200uh of turns on it with .5mm copper magnet wire.
R1 can be between 1 k and 5k. At 36v Id look at around 3k. So R2 would be around 80k.
Here is the data sheet for the lm2576hv.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/LM2576.PDF
If you decide to do this I will discuss more and give you some suggestions on how to wind the inductor.
-
Here is a schematic to guide you along the way.
These can be done on a proto board too.
-
G'day Leslie,
I would be interested in building this kit of yours for myself to be run off anywhere from 24v to 60v. I'm considering putting one of a pair of LED car driving lights onto my bike for its brightness and look. See attached picture. Could you give a list of components needed and how to build and tune it.
Muzza
-
you can use a Dc-DC converter, switch technology, pin out compatible with LM78xx and efficience up to 98%
Visit: http://www.recom-international.com/pages/listSeries.php?line=INNO&productfamily=Switching+Regulators+R-78
It is a good product.
-
Actually I found a ready made dc-dc converter that is fairly cheep. Its input is 18-75v and has 2 output of -12v and +12v at 170mA. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DC-DC-power-converter-18-75V-in-12V-dual-out-6W_W0QQitemZ160361429369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_2?hash=item2556493979 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DC-DC-power-converter-18-75V-in-12V-dual-out-6W_W0QQitemZ160361429369QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_2?hash=item2556493979)
I'm also looking at http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Super-Bright-48-LED-Car-Interior-Dome-Door-Light-A201_W0QQitemZ380072299852QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item587e130d4c (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Super-Bright-48-LED-Car-Interior-Dome-Door-Light-A201_W0QQitemZ380072299852QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item587e130d4c) at 48 led interior car light to be made into the front light for the bike.
Muzza.au
-
This looks like a nice one ....
:D
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-91-LED-MARINE-FLOOD-LIGHT_W0QQitemZ270509376065QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Boat_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3efb9d8241
-
I'm also looking at http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Super-Bright-48-LED-Car-Interior-Dome-Door-Light-A201_W0QQitemZ380072299852QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item587e130d4c (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Super-Bright-48-LED-Car-Interior-Dome-Door-Light-A201_W0QQitemZ380072299852QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item587e130d4c) at 48 led interior car light to be made into the front light for the bike.
Muzza,
I'd forget the car interior lamp idea, as they tend to use wide angle leds to displace the light over a wider area. On a bike you want a narrow, more directional beam which will project the light much further in order to light up the road ahead.
One of these would be much better (and a lot cheaper) than the interior lamp you were looking at:
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/1227292/60-LED--Headlight-003.jpg) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/60-White-LED-4-modes-Headlight-Super-bright-Headlamp_W0QQitemZ180437164799QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Sport_Camping_Hiking_Lamps_Torches?hash=item2a02e4a2ff#ht_2738wt_998)
You could simply use it as it is on your head/helmet or modify it to fit your bike
I have one very similar to this fitted to my bike at the moment and it works great.
In the dark you can easily see where you're going, or if it's not quite so dark, the oncoming traffic will definitely see you!
(Especially if you use the flashing mode)
Alan
-
G'day Leslie,
I would be interested in building this kit of yours for myself to be run off anywhere from 24v to 60v. I'm considering putting one of a pair of LED car driving lights onto my bike for its brightness and look. See attached picture. Could you give a list of components needed and how to build and tune it.
Muzza
Yeah sure.
LM2576HV 5 pin simple switcher IC. Data sheet (http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2576.pdf)<<<<
I got 10 of them here for about $16
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-pcs-Switching-Regulator-LM2576HVT-ADJ-LM2576-TO-220_W0QQitemZ160390583126QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2558061356
Make sure you gets the HV and they are good to up to a nice 3 amps. You could run a set of 3v crees on one without going series..
Thats 60v to 3v with 75% efficiency. 9 watts.
At 12v you could pull 36 watts out of her. :P
There are 5 pins to the switcher.
1: Input
2: output.
3: ground
4: feedback regulation
5: ground and or standby switch.
This diagram I altered should get you an adjustable DC to DC conveter from 11.5v to 16.5v.
Best at 12.6v 600ma for max efficiency.
If you want more current take the inductance down and use a beefier schotkky diode.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/switcher2.jpg)
The feedback works on a voltage divider from R1 and the 10k base resistor and series trim fro adjustable voltages. You could use a 50k variable resistor and make the output voltage swing all the way.
For around 12v use a 1.2k resistor for R1 it doesnt matter much about the output.
The 10k resistor is there so you don't blow that sh!t up and with the 10 turn 5k VR adjustable should be a smoother adjustment of the output.
Stick to the above circuit and she should be dandy.
And the 5k Variable resistor is for adjustable voltage. 10 turn variable resistor pots are the way to go.
Feedback voltage = 1.23v
The equation is for 12.6v
R2=1.2k(12.6v/1.23) - 1.2k
R2 =11k
R2 = the 10k and variable resistor in my circuit above.
The input filter cap I used a 63v 100uh
The output filter cap I used a 25v 2000uh to save space, but when practising use a 63v cap so you don't have any accidents or of cause desire voltages higher than 25v.
The schottky diode I used is from Jaycar. IN5818 40v 1 amp. Its good for up to 37v output @ 800ma.
The inductor by the data sheet has a chart.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/switcher3.jpg)
Use the equation (Vin-vout)*vout/vin*1000/switch frequency 52khz
Say
52v input - 12.6v output = 39.4
39.4(12.6v/52v) = 9.54
9.54(1000/52khz) = 183.
The figure 183 is used on the vertical axis on the chart above and go along the bottom and choose desired amperage.
I came up with a H1500 for 600ma in between 700ma and 500ma output and improvised it to 1600uh by looking where my 183 figure ran up to.
For a 9 watt cree lamp like the one in you picture, use a 1000uh inductor rated at 1 amp. A 950uh if you want to do a rear light as well.
Choose an inductor suitable for 52khz switching. I bought a yellow one from Jaycar. Both L and H inductors are uh however they size differs.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/inductor.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/switcher4.jpg)
http://www.thierry-lequeu.fr/data/PC500_51.pdf (http://www.thierry-lequeu.fr/data/PC500_51.pdf)
I used the above site to gather the dimensions.
My inductor is
27mm outside diameter
15mm inside diameter
11mm high
You want the same size. I bought mine from jay car and rewound it to suit. You should be able to wind your toroid with .5mm enamel wire and just squeeze it in a single layer for best results. ermm maybe a quick 2nd layer around the toroid..
God knows how many turns I put on it but if you get this far I can work it out for you. I just used an inductance meter and kept winding intil I got over 1500uh.
I used 3 layers.
Its still going very well and Ive used 3 auto leds on the front now and one on the rear.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/lights-1.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/stuff005.jpg)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/rear.jpg)
Honestly it took me some time to be able to build these DC to DC converters in an afternoon. Sourcing parts and stuff. I do have spare toroids and ICS to boot. And the multimeter that measures inductance I bought from Jcar takes all the guess work out of the winding of the toroids.
I love learning and doing this stuff but it would be easier to buy one. But heck I would learn jack doing that.
-
Wow, This looks like you can shine back at cars that blind you with their main light, and blind them even more... LOL ;D
If you go to the beach and light that thing up people will start sunbathing... :D
Nice
-
This looks like a nice one ....
:D
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-91-LED-MARINE-FLOOD-LIGHT_W0QQitemZ270509376065QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Boat_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3efb9d8241
Thanks Jazzjerry,
Its funny the seller said: THESE WERE GOING SO FAST WHEN I BID FOR THEM A YEAR AGO IT WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET THEM FOR UNDER $75 EACH, I COULD BE WRONG BUT I CANT FIND THEM ON EBAY ANYMORE
but I did a quick search and found almost 50 of them on auction with some starting at 99 cents. I am concerned that these might be too bright. I don't wont to blind the car drivers so that they end up losing control and crashing into me. The aim is to be visible and to see whats up ahead also without going overboard.
I'm also considering going with some ready made ones from: http://www.ebikes.ca/lights/ (http://www.ebikes.ca/lights/), but if I can do it myself for cheaper, then thats what I'll do.
Thanks all for your suggestions, I will consider my options. I am an electronics tech so building my own might be more fun.
Muzza.au
-
I am concerned that these might be too bright. I don't wont to blind the car drivers so that they end up losing control and crashing into me. The aim is to be visible and to see whats up ahead also without going overboard.
Is this what you meant by "too bright"? Not bad for 24Watts! (8 x 3Watt LEDs)
(http://www.kolumbus.fi/hietala2/jukka/teholed/valo3.jpg) (http://www.kolumbus.fi/hietala2/jukka/teholed/pyorassa.jpg)
It would certainly make a fantastic high beam, but you would need to have a toggle switch and a low beam light to go with it.
The construction details can be found on this webpage (http://www.kolumbus.fi/hietala2/jukka/teholed/teholed.htm) but unfortunately it's all in Finnish. I didn't have a problem interpreting the pictures, but I found the text to be slightly more complicated as I don't understand Finnish. ::)
I couldn't find a Finnish online translater that would accept the webpage URL, so I had to copy and past it into this link (http://freetranslation.imtranslator.com/English-language_Finnish-Translation) a bit at a time to translate it.
It's a very interesting article though.
Alan
-
Awesome bike light. :o
Maybe a little too awesome. But hell yeah, Id love to burn the eyes out of some cars that refuse to dip their high beams. :P
My dc converter could run 4 of those 3 watt cree at 4v . Thats at least 12watt and over 1000 lumens, not quite as bright as the Bikemad light.
If you were to put 4p2s 3 watt crees you would yield the same lumen as that Bikemad picture. I don't like to run too many series leds with out balancing and that can take away efficiency.
The LM2576 is internally limited to 3 amps so its safe to run them at max.
My humbled bike light runs at around 3.6 watts. Its plenty bright for a bike that travels under 40kph.
The faster the bike I guess the more lumen you need.
I tried messing with the 3 watt crees but had trouble heat sinking them. I almost got them going but I used a plastic reflector to hold them onto my sink and it melted both the reflectors and leds. :(
The 3 watt crees get so hot if you cant get the heat off of them they even melt the solder.
-
You could simply use it as it is on your head/helmet or modify it to fit your bike
I have one very similar to this fitted to my bike at the moment and it works great.
In the dark you can easily see where you're going, or if it's not quite so dark, the oncoming traffic will definitely see you!
(Especially if you use the flashing mode)
Alan
Even on your head those are handy. I have one but not so many leds, I like where you turn your head it lights the area your looking at.
-
I built a bike light out of headlamp I got at Target for $10. It was originally powered by two 2 lithium 123 cells. I went to Radio Shack and got a 4 AA holder for $1.98 and soldered a length of wire (Scrounged) between it and the battery terminals inside the head(band) lamp. I went to 99 cent store and got 4 AA alkalines for $1.08 after tax. So now I have a 5W LED Bike Light for under $15 with 2 123 lithium cells thrown in and they usually cost about $4 each.
I have triple redundancy on my headlights and double on my tail lights. My worst headlight is the only one that was actually sold for bicycles: it is probably 2W. The middle one is the post Rodney King LAPD flashlight that replaced the 5D MagLights the cops beat him with. The new one is covered in rubber and takes two of the lithium 123s. It was designed to be light so that they could not do any damage with it. I got it at Sears on sale for $30-$40. A couple of O rings allow me to redundantly attach it to my bike.
-
Could you show us some photo's?
-
i've got this light, the beam makes the road, 100m long and 15 meters wide, shine like no other light i've ever seen.
not even car lights get close to this
http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30864
-
Just one of those would be great. $82 for a one time out lay is acceptable.
-
How's this one:
Ultra bright 3-LED waterproof spotlight
3W each LED of total 9W output
55mm (2.15") diameter x 66mm (2.6") in length
Working voltage from 12VDC to 30VDC
Aluminum light housing and mounting clamp
Comes with male and female waterproof connectors
Easily clamp to any 22~26mm tube or handlebar
Without using bottom clamp, can bolt on a flat surface
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/sample.jpg)(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/spotlight.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/sample3.jpg)(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/spotlightside4.jpg)
from: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-24V-Waterproof-9W-LED-Spotlight-Bike-Car-Truck-ATV_W0QQitemZ180459359035QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a04374b3b (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-24V-Waterproof-9W-LED-Spotlight-Bike-Car-Truck-ATV_W0QQitemZ180459359035QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a04374b3b)
muzza.au
-
my magicshine is brighter :P
-
my magicshine is brighter :P
Yeah, but the other one is half the price! ;D
Muzza.
edit: ps. I just bought one, up to 2 week before I get it, so I'll let you know what its like when I get it.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/spotlight.jpg)
-
Here are pictures of my homebrew sub $15 headlamp. It adjusts up and down by sliding half of a cheapie handlebar grip up and down between the aluminum wires and the bogus seat tube that holds the front derailleur. The Radio Shack battery box even has a switch.
-
my magicshine is brighter :P
Yeah, but the other one is half the price! ;D
Muzza.
edit: ps. I just bought one, up to 2 week before I get it, so I'll let you know what its like when I get it.
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/2allbuyer/spotlight/spotlight.jpg)
I've got it already. Only 6 days from Hong Kong to Australia. I was expecting 2-3 weeks. Fantastic, really bright, almost too bright. I think I will have to aim it down a bit or else it might be to glary for car drivers.
I'll have to wait until the weekend to get time to install it on my bike.
Muzza.
-
I found this very interesting.......
Would this work straight of my 48v Pack?
Dont know that much about leds.
(http://www.yuqiled.com/upfile/20093120340616.jpg)
http://www.yuqiled.com/products_details.asp?id=537 (http://www.yuqiled.com/products_details.asp?id=537)
What is Yuqi Tech LED lighting source module lighting:
Yuqi Tech LED lighting source module is the technology for used the chip to fill into the pcb to package the LED lighting source directly.
LED mould lighting series products are our patented design, the advantages of LED flat lighting source panel: Gentle lighting, no glare, energy saving, long life time etc.
Model No.:08100 48V
Outlet size(MM):90*46*8.5
Reference voltage:DC 48V
Rated current:210mA
Rated power:10W
-
Would this work straight of my 48v Pack?
It says it runs on 48V dc, so I would say yes.
muzza.au
-
Anybody else interested?
I might try and get a quote if this will work on 48v
Greetz
JJ
-
Jerry, I wouldn't expect it would be much good for a headlamp as it does not have a directional beam, so don't get too excited.
The "Gentle lighting, no glare" means it will be a very diffused light. It may light a wide area, but it will not project very far down the road.
Headlamps need to have a bright and focused long range beam.
But if they did red ones, they might work as rear lights. ;)
Alan