GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions => Topic started by: o00scorpion00o on June 22, 2010, 09:50:36 PM
-
HI. I got my Magic Pie today. Quick delivery. I do however have a few complaints. The tube valve barely fits through the hole and there is nothing I can do about it. That's because the rim is re enforced, instead of being wider it's longer. My pump will NOT fit on the valve. I will have to try find on of the old style hand pumps to try screw the extension up on the valve. I tried to pull it down and burst the first tube I tried.
Also the brake disk fits perfect only the calliper rubs off the hub, it's a hydraulic calliper. Is there any way I can make the calliper fit? and if it means spacers washers etc, why is not an option when ordering? I can accept and tolerate having to provide my own sprocket, but it should be made known when ordering that it isn't supplied!
The connections should have some sort of weather proof box to hide them in, I think it would look well and complete what otherwise seems to be a good quality package. As I say they are few complaints but ones that really are a pain in the ass. I won't be able to test it for a week or two yet until the battery comes. I will be looking forward to that!
-
If you can find an inner tube with a schrader valve, you should find it will fit much better.
(http://www.nexternal.com/icycles/images/valves.jpg)
You will need to space the disc further away from the hub to give clearance for the hydraulic calliper. This can be done by fitting either a single purpose made spacer (like the centre piece cut from and old brake disc) or you can use separate washers on each of the bolts, but the washers must be identical, as described in Fitting the freewheel and brake disc (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1679.msg8404#msg8404).
Check out this post (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1919.msg10866#msg10866) for more details on the spacing required to accommodate a hydraulic brake calliper.
Alan
-
Scorpioni,
Can't tell for sure, but looks as though you got a MP with the radial spoke lacing?
Hope to hear how it does for you, how strong it turns out to be.
What are you putting it on?
Ross
-
Ross,
None of the Magic Pies are supplied by GM with radial lacing, but some of the more recent Pies have been fitted with a revised motor ring to allow correct centring of the rim. These new motor rings also incorporate a modified spoke fixing layout, which allows the angle of the spokes (from perpendicular) to be more like those found on standard wheels with conventional hubs:
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1653.0;attach=1739;image) (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1653.msg9301#msg9301) (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1653.0;attach=1741;image) (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1852.msg9311#msg9311)
Click on images for more details.
I'm really impressed at how quickly GM have been able to implement these changes into production following our feedback and suggestions.
These improved Magic Pies now ensure that the rim can be centred correctly within the frame/forks and they will hopefully be much more durable too.
Time will tell! ;)
Alan
-
If you can find an inner tube with a schrader valve, you should find it will fit much better.
(http://www.nexternal.com/icycles/images/valves.jpg)
You will need to space the disc further away from the hub to give clearance for the hydraulic calliper. This can be done by fitting either a single purpose made spacer (like the centre piece cut from and old brake disc) or you can use separate washers on each of the bolts, but the washers must be identical, as described in Fitting the freewheel and brake disc (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1679.msg8404#msg8404).
Check out this post (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=1919.msg10866#msg10866) for more details on the spacing required to accommodate a hydraulic brake calliper.
Alan
Hi BikeMad I had a tube with a schrader valve, same problem, doesn't stick out enough for the pump to be able to grab on. I got an old style hand pump from a neighbour last night and I managed to be able to pump it up, because it has a smaller tip on the old pump. I hope you can see in the picture what I'm talking about. The old pump is not able to pump to the required pressure.
-
Scorpioni,
Can't tell for sure, but looks as though you got a MP with the radial spoke lacing?
Hope to hear how it does for you, how strong it turns out to be.
What are you putting it on?
Ross
Hi Rossasaurus. I have no Idea about spokes lol, but maybe you can tell from the pic?
the bike is a Carrera Kraken. I got it from Halfords, and I think it's one of their own brands. It's a good quality bike. I decided not to get a rear suspension bike because the last one I had was not very stable or designed for such use. The more expensive bikes are much more stable, but at a price, and you can't mount a rack other than seat post and I don't trust them with the weight of a 20amp LiFeP04.
-
From the instruction.
You will need to space the disc further away from the hub to give clearance for the hydraulic calliper. This can be done by fitting either a single purpose made spacer (like the centre piece cut from and old brake disc) or you can use separate washers on each of the bolts, but the washers must be identical, as described in Fitting the freewheel and brake disc.
Please Note:the above shims should not be used for spacing a brake disc which bolts directly to the hub on the Magic Pie.
The brake disc must have a suitable flat surface area where it contacts the hub to ensure it can be correctly tightened without causing any distortion of the disc.
Can someone explain what is meant by the second part. My disk brake is bolts directly but I am really tight agianst the hub. Can I use individual washers?
Stan
-
(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/Shims.JPG)
Please Note:the above shims should not be used for spacing a brake disc which bolts directly to the hub on the Magic Pie.
The brake disc must have a suitable flat surface area where it contacts the hub to ensure it can be correctly tightened without causing any distortion of the disc.
My brake is bolts directly but I am really tight against the hub. Can I use individual washers?
Stan, I was basically trying to deter people from using the freewheel spacer washers as disc spacers, as they are not suitable for this purpose. Individual washers will be fine provided they are all the same thickness to prevent the disc from running out of line. If you need to use two or more washers on each bolt to give extra spacing, it might be easier to stick them together using grease (or perhaps superglue) to help keep them in place while you line the bolts up.
Hopefully the attachment below will help.
Alan
-
Alan
Thanks for the prompt reply. The original instructions were not clear me. I will get 2 washers on each I think. The mechanical disk brake I have has a adjuster on the hub side that is too close.
Cheers
Stan
:)
-
Hello Scorpion , ih ad the same problem with the valve stem just like the Thousands of people they have sold these to .. And I dealt with it like a bunch of them did I'm sure ... Went to the auto parts store and bought a set of metal valve extensions for my schrader valve type stem ... Works perfectly ...
If you are in the USA I will send you one of the extensions . I have 3 extra here somewhere .. Just P.M. me your address ..
I wish I had one of the new style ones like you do .. These Bike kits are so cool ...work so good ... You should be real happy with it when you start using it ..
I hope you can enjoy this "Magic" Pie ... Take Care ... Don J.
HI. I got my Magic Pie today. Quick delivery. I do however have a few complaints. The tube valve barely fits through the hole and there is nothing I can do about it. That's because the rim is re enforced, instead of being wider it's longer. My pump will NOT fit on the valve. I will have to try find on of the old style hand pumps to try screw the extension up on the valve. I tried to pull it down and burst the first tube I tried.
Also the brake disk fits perfect only the calliper rubs off the hub, it's a hydraulic calliper. Is there any way I can make the calliper fit? and if it means spacers washers etc, why is not an option when ordering? I can accept and tolerate having to provide my own sprocket, but it should be made known when ordering that it isn't supplied!
The connections should have some sort of weather proof box to hide them in, I think it would look well and complete what otherwise seems to be a good quality package. As I say they are few complaints but ones that really are a pain in the ass. I won't be able to test it for a week or two yet until the battery comes. I will be looking forward to that!
-
Hello Scorpion , ih ad the same problem with the valve stem just like the Thousands of people they have sold these to .. And I dealt with it like a bunch of them did I'm sure ... Went to the auto parts store and bought a set of metal valve extensions for my schrader valve type stem ... Works perfectly ...
If you are in the USA I will send you one of the extensions . I have 3 extra here somewhere .. Just P.M. me your address ..
I wish I had one of the new style ones like you do .. These Bike kits are so cool ...work so good ... You should be real happy with it when you start using it ..
I hope you can enjoy this "Magic" Pie ... Take Care ... Don J.
Hi Don, thanks for that. That really helped a lot. I live in Ireland so thanks for the offer of postage. But at least I know what to look out for now.
I really can't wait to take her for a spin, but all in good time.
Take care.
-
LMAO how did my post end up in the quote? ??? ::)
-
LMAO how did my post end up in the quote? ??? ::)
All sorted now.
Who do we know that could have overwritten the [/quote] command?(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/emoticons/everyday_think_230608.GIF)
Alan
-
I have no Idea about spokes lol, but maybe you can tell from the pic?
That spoke pattern looks remarkably similar to my original CAD drawing. ;)
Alan
-
LMAO how did my post end up in the quote? ??? ::)
All sorted now.
Who do we know that could have overwritten the
command?(http://www.arhservices.co.uk/GoldenMotor/emoticons/everyday_think_230608.GIF)
Alan
[/quote]
Hi Allen, Do I have you to thank for the edit? lol. Oh thanks for the washers on the disk info. worked perfect! I have everything installed now and waiting for Mr. Ping to send my battery. Oh and I need to find a valve extension. Tanks for that info Don!
Oh by the way, has anyone noticed that the cables for the throttle, cruise etc were about a mile too long for a pie installation??? ;D
-
Another word for command is order. You place an order for a kit.
They actually mean the same but one has a more militant ring to it. I like command you to give me PIE!
-
None of the Magic Pies are supplied by GM with radial lacing, but some of the more recent Pies have been fitted with a revised motor ring to allow correct centring of the rim. These new motor rings also incorporate a modified spoke fixing layout, which allows the angle of the spokes (from perpendicular) to be more like those found on standard wheels with conventional hubs:
Revised Motor Ring .. I wonder if this is avaliable to the public .. It would be cool if it was .. Perhaps I need to P.M. Mr. Yao and ask him ... Does anyone else have a clue to the answer to this question .. Thanks , Don
-
We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.
Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.
-
Oh by the way, has anyone noticed that the cables for the throttle, cruise etc were about a mile too long for a pie installation??? ;D
Not if you are fitting it to a tandem with high handlebars.;)
As it's a universal kit, it has to be suitable for a large variety of bikes, and I think it is much better that the leads are long.
Imagine how you'd feel if the cables they supplied were too short instead of too long!
Do you think they would be long enough for this?:
(http://wineandwheels.com/uploaded_images/triple-709483.jpg) (http://wineandwheels.com/uploaded_images/triple-709483.jpg)
Alan
-
We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.
Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.
Hello , So ... Please ... Please ... Please ... Is it possable to buy the parts to convert the older off center wheels to the centered ones .. Please ;D...
I would like to go with a larger tire ... I have a 700 X 38c now .. The original Tire for this bike was 700 X 40c and I'd like to use a 700 X 45c .. I have compensated by using an older steel frame .. (I liked better anyhow) and widening 1 side like Leslie? suggested to do .. But it still is a little off center ..
Please P.M. me with the cost to get this Magic Pie assembly centered up ... thanks for listening here .. Don
-
Oh by the way, has anyone noticed that the cables for the throttle, cruise etc were about a mile too long for a pie installation??? ;D
Not if you are fitting it to a tandem with high handlebars.;)
As it's a universal kit, it has to be suitable for a large variety of bikes, and I think it is much better that the leads are long.
Imagine how you'd feel if the cables they supplied were too short instead of too long!
Do you think they would be long enough for this?:
(http://wineandwheels.com/uploaded_images/triple-709483.jpg) (http://wineandwheels.com/uploaded_images/triple-709483.jpg)
Alan
Fair enough, lol. How about a long or short cable option when ordering the pie? ;D
-
Dfmerrifield thought of this idea.
Sorry it took so long! Damn digital camera is so touchy, you can't see the pick but smudges. So, had to use the cell phone and I use windows 7 with office 2007 and somewhere along the line *&%$# it's a bitch to finally get the pic's off the memory card. Then change the pic format. Pain in the you know what!!
Anyway, here it is.
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2135.0;attach=2088;image)
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c251/soulelectronique/big.jpg)
It is sincerly thoughtfull of GM to consider the longer bikes, but I will say how many long bikes compared to short bikes. Who are GM catering to here?
Nice ride coming along there o00scorpion00o.
Maybe give the tip of that valve connector a file, you may be able to get the thread a little closer to the schrader stem.
-
We have revised MagicPie steel ring, shaft, aluminimum side covers after we read the proposals from Alan (Bikemad) and fellow forumers. So all new shipment are almost aligned in center of bike fork and spoked according to Bikemad's suggestion. We did test the strength of new way of rim spoking and 2mm spokes, all went well.
Many thanks to all your support and feedback which are very important to us for continuous product improvements.
So Yao ,
Please can you sell me the parts needed to upgrade the Magic Pie to the centered wheel like your putting out now ... Please , Please , Pretty Please , ;D.... With Sugar on top ...
I'D like to put a wider tire on mine this bike originally had a 40c wide tire and now has a 38c tire.. Want to try a 45c and run lower pressure for a more comfortable ride
Thanks for your help , Don J.
-
hello again. Okay I found a tube with an extended valve, yepeeeeee!!! I brought the bike up to my friend that I sold my old kit to to use his battery. Connected up went for a spin. 35-40kph max. I was not really happy as the old motor went faster with faster acceleration and seems to have more torque.
The cycle analyst tells me the motor is pulling a max of 700 watts around 14-15 amps max. That's half what the old motor pulled.
Now the controller is set at 48v max amps. So I am now thinking that the controller is limiting the power somehow. As, correct me if I'm wrong, but 52 volts @ 14 amps is around 720 watts? So 52 volts @ 30 amps should be around 1500 watts, maybe slightly over. So that means the Magic Pie is only 700 watts not 1000 as advertised!
This is a real shame as I was looking for at least the same power as my old 1000w motor, Does anyone know how I can set the controller for more amps? as the software does not allow it to go beyond 14 amps and so must be limited by firmware, Even though it's turned to max!
-
Ok cool youre up and running.
Do you have the usb program cable or does it wiork with your pie?
Its more like 52v*20 amps for a average constant of 1000 watts. Honestly you should be able to get more than 40kph even with a 15a draw.
Not many bikes need all that current to keep get and keep a speed up I go faster than you at 48v with 15a max draw,
So I'd do a run of the mill check for the usual things that slow your bike down. Like tire pressure and brakes centred and stuff.
Then you want the promissed amps. Check the program of the controller if you can. Then maybe do a high load test on that battery at 25 amps to see if there is a weak spot in the cells or BMS.
Check connections and stuff.
Yiou do appear like you know what to do but just in case I will post this anyway.
Good luck.
-
I do not trust CA and stuff.
A lot of folk going around thinking there bikes do 1500 watts because it says it on the ca. Doh! I don't know, maybe I'm not seeing the big deal here about CA and a couple of $7 multi meters and some brains is much better.
If your bike is doing better average wattage this is better than a massive peak to fool eyes you about the true power.
Id rather a bike that can do 1000 watts cont than be pulling down the pack to death with current up and down like all over the place like a yo yo. People will allow that extra 10 amps for a split second in acceleration that really does SFA to give them power as it just wasted and stresses the hell out of everything.
-
Ok cool youre up and running.
Do you have the usb program cable or does it wiork with your pie?
Its more like 52v*20 amps for a average constant of 1000 watts. Honestly you should be able to get more than 40kph even with a 15a draw.
Not many bikes need all that current to keep get and keep a speed up I go faster than you at 48v with 15a max draw,
So I'd do a run of the mill check for the usual things that slow your bike down. Like tire pressure and brakes centred and stuff.
Then you want the promissed amps. Check the program of the controller if you can. Then maybe do a high load test on that battery at 25 amps to see if there is a weak spot in the cells or BMS.
Check connections and stuff.
Yiou do appear like you know what to do but just in case I will post this anyway.
Good luck.
HI 317537. I have checked everything I can think of. I even put my cycle analyst on my friends bike and his on mine, same story. And yes I have the usb cable. The default settings when I received the kit was set for max amps. but the voltage was set for 24 volts. I changed it to 48 before I hooked it up to the battery.
The only thing I can think of is that the controller is set to some limit of around 14 amps and that's it, no matter if you have usb cable or not 14 amps is all she will take. And another reason I believe this is that if you turn up the amps you should see more amps drawn on the cycle analyst, and as I said earlier that at 30 amps @52 volts it should be around 1500 watts. My old system was set to around 20 amps and it pulled around 1050 watts, had better acceleration and top speed.
-
Are you sure the usb link is changing the controller setting?
Try reducing the "Continuous Amps" setting to 5 or 10Amps and see if it makes any measurable difference, just to see whether the usb interface is actually changing the controller parameters. ;)
Alan
-
Have you tried the new pack on the old motor or the new motor on the old pack or have you covered this by using the same pack for both.
See this is where you may need to get your hands dirty and do a load test on the battery if a different pack has been used on either hubs.
If the winding connections in the motor are not soldered properly you can lose a parrallel (p) winding, but such a coincidence of having one p connection lose on each phase or even two winding connections would be rare and a single missing p winding would to my knowledge still trigger a max amp reading on the CA.
A short in the winding can render two p windings inadequate, I would still start from the pack and move my way to the motor.
A loose p connection in a cell block can limit current and create more problems down the track, si it is important to find the bottle neck in your system.
How is the efficiency of your rides. At 15 amps if the motor and pack is fine you shoiuld get giood range still?
-
Are you sure the usb link is changing the controller setting?
Try reducing the "Continuous Amps" setting to 5 or 10Amps and see if it makes any measurable difference, just to see whether the usb interface is actually changing the controller parameters. ;)
Alan
Is this to see if the bike goes real slooooowwwwww on hills and stuff to see if the controller usb link is effective?
Good advice there Alan.
-
Are you sure the usb link is changing the controller setting?
Try reducing the "Continuous Amps" setting to 5 or 10Amps and see if it makes any measurable difference, just to see whether the usb interface is actually changing the controller parameters. ;)
Alan
Hi Alan, I am sure that the software is working and storing the settings. I will check it again when my battery comes. It's due sometime in the next hour or so, I was thinking to myself that the software could have a few bugs in it. So I will check later.
-
Have you tried the new pack on the old motor or the new motor on the old pack or have you covered this by using the same pack for both.
See this is where you may need to get your hands dirty and do a load test on the battery if a different pack has been used on either hubs.
If the winding connections in the motor are not soldered properly you can lose a parrallel (p) winding, but such a coincidence of having one p connection lose on each phase or even two winding connections would be rare and a single missing p winding would to my knowledge still trigger a max amp reading on the CA.
A short in the winding can render two p windings inadequate, I would still start from the pack and move my way to the motor.
A loose p connection in a cell block can limit current and create more problems down the track, si it is important to find the bottle neck in your system.
How is the efficiency of your rides. At 15 amps if the motor and pack is fine you shoiuld get giood range still?
Hi 317537. I put the old battery on the new motor as my new one has not arrived yet. On the old motor it still peaks around 1150 watts.
I doubt the old Vpower battery would take much more than 20-22 amps anyway. I'm sure the range though will be improved @700 watts max :D
Don't get me wrong though, the pie is a good piece of kit especially because of the controller integration. It gets rid of the need to mount and hide the controller and wires. It's quiet too. Barely a hum out of it. I just hope I can get it to pull a few more amps. So I will do a bit more checking and I will let everyone know how I get on.
-
Okay got mu ping battery and I am impressed. It seems to be good quality and much more professional looking than my old Vpower and the led's are very usefull and tell you if all cells are balanced.
Like Alan suggested I turned the amps down via the software and I noticed the difference straight away, drawing no more than 2-3 amps. Turned it up to max and It went back to 700-750 watts.
So now I really believe the controller is limited to 15 amps MAX around 740 watts. Turning the amps up makes no difference at all, only turning it down.
Has anyone else hooked their Pie up to the cycle analyst and is reading 700-750 watts @ 48 volts or 52-58 full charge?
And is there a way to make the controller give out more amps? if not then my only option is to put the board from a spare magic controller I have lying around into the pie!
-
But how is the efficiency? From your posts it seems fine as you seem to be getting the bang for buck. If the throttle isnt up to the task this can limit both soeed and power.
Check your throttle input and output voltage is up to spec. About 4.8v in and 3.8v out, or simply try another throttle. If the input is limited you could use your own voltage supply> ????
This is your order and good money man, but I think we can get it right. For warranty reasons I suggest conduct any Magic Pie opening or modifcations under the guidence of Tom.
If youre that keen check the tracks on the internal controller are nice and thick with solder. One guy soldered a current bypass to the all channels and he said his MC got up and did the go, go, go, but I think he over did it and fried his MC. He did not have the program cable working like you.
While the pie is open check the impedance and or inductance of your coils, test the PM frequency and width, OMG it getting more complcated as we go.
If youre still unhappy email Tom with your details and work with him, they may send out a replacement controller and if the inductance tests are way out a new motor. You seem capable of removing controllers and replacing them
Yeah you could try your old MC to see if it is the motor. It depends on how rich you are in time, smarts and cash. I think you have the smarts in check.
Unless it is a major defunct, I myself would try to rectify the situation by myself, but thats me, as I am not too fussy. I would expect a proper working kit for my cash but have no problems replacing any faulty gear at the home with a GM replacement to avoid the shipping costs of a new wheel.
If I had to send a hub back Id go as far as sending a ill wound stator and accept a new wound stator in its place to minmise the cost of shipping..
I think GM repect those who consider this shipping expense and try everything possible to do the repairs at home. This is just my opinion BTW. They might not do anything I have assumed.
-
Hi 317537. The Efficiency seems fine actually, considering 750 watts gives me a max of 23-24 mph, though it's hard to calculate the efficiency. The old kit did about 30-31 mph at 1100 watts.
You say test the coils? how do I do that. I am fairly handy with a soldering iron, but I don't really have much knowledge on motors!
I must open the motor later and check the difference between the internal controller and my external one.
-
You can purchase an inductance meter on ebay.
If your efficiency is good I see no reason for the inductance test. I "think" sensorless mode may give you some idea if the inductance between the phases are up to spec. It wont run really reliable in sensorless or not at all. That just a shot in the dark though and maybe hard to simulate on the pie as the controller is internal.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LCR-RCL-INDUCTANCE-CAPACITANCE-RESISTANCE-METER-w-Lead-/120589185712?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item1c13acf2b0
The inductance test is best done with the stator removed but can be done if you can get access to each phase wires. This internal controller thing is really a big wet rain on our parade here. Its making my life as a tech officer here really hard. :'( lol.
I'm almost lost on how to help you through this.
Test your throttle input and output voltage and post the results. Maybe something here we may find out but I already presumed you have tested this.
-
Edit.
.
-
Hi Everyone - I'm new here and just got my first Magic Pie on Monday! I'm pretty excited and already hooked up my cycle analyst to my old scooter-style ebike.
For this thread I'm wondering now.... Are all pies limited to 15A? Seems silly if the programmable interface gives you the option of 30A continuous, 50A max...
Since we are talking about acceleration, is acceleration always maxed out, or is there a setting that could be put into the programming interface to decide acceleration maximums? After all, I may not need high acceleration (Save battery power!), but I still want to climb those hills!
xxxScorp - I was curious what your cruising watt usage is. My old scooter-style ebike is always drawing at least 350 watts at 30kph on flat terrain.
-
Hi Everyone - I'm new here and just got my first Magic Pie on Monday! I'm pretty excited and already hooked up my cycle analyst to my old scooter-style ebike.
For this thread I'm wondering now.... Are all pies limited to 15A? Seems silly if the programmable interface gives you the option of 30A continuous, 50A max...
Since we are talking about acceleration, is acceleration always maxed out, or is there a setting that could be put into the programming interface to decide acceleration maximums? After all, I may not need high acceleration (Save battery power!), but I still want to climb those hills!
xxxScorp - I was curious what your cruising watt usage is. My old scooter-style ebike is always drawing at least 350 watts at 30kph on flat terrain.
Hi Magneto, My Absolute max cruising wattage full throttle was 750 watts. On flat @22-24 mph. Gps verified. I do not know if every pie is limited to 750 watts @48-52 volts! It was not able to climb hills as good as my old 1000w conhismotor, nor had it the same top speed of 28-31mph on the flat.
I think you might be disappointed with it's hill climbing abilities in it's original configuration. The usb cable will let you change amps continuous and max, but for me that was a waste of money as it was limited to 14-15amps max! You can change regen strength. There is an option "speed scale" I've no idea what it does!
I see an option on the order page of Magic Pie internal and an option for external controller. I did not see that option when ordering mine!
The torque of this motor when fed with the right current (from external controller only) is really amazing, I had problems keeping the front wheel on the ground, and could be highly dangerous as the controller does not have a soft start option. It pulled me up a fairly steep hill @20mph while pulling 40 amps! (Then I fried the internal controller) You MUST have torque arms if feeding this motor with higher current, you should have them anyway! I don't know where you can order torque arms from, GM should supply them as an option. I would strongly advise two torque arms if modding, or using an external controller!!!
Please keep me informed of your experience with your Pie. I would like to know the wattage, amps, Voltage of your battery, lifep04 etc.
Good luck with your Pie!
-
My MP 26in is running on 16s1p headways. I just put on a cycle analyst yesterday and I get 1000watts or more on acceleration but it drops off to about 500w at speed which 42km gps verified. The current I see peaks at 20Amps again under acceleration.
Seems to work really well, It would be nice to open her up to get the 1000watts at speed though.......
Stan
-
My MP 26in is running on 16s1p headways. I just put on a cycle analyst yesterday and I get 1000watts or more on acceleration but it drops off to about 500w at speed which 42km gps verified. The current I see peaks at 20Amps again under acceleration.
Seems to work really well, It would be nice to open her up to get the 1000watts at speed though.......
Stan
Hi Stan.
That's strange as I never saw 1000w on acceleration, max power acceleration or cruising was 750 watts, So I have no idea what was going on with mine??? I think I saw it peak at 800w max! 14-15 amps.
LOL don't open it up! ;D
Your cruising speed of 500 watts seems good though. 500w @42km/hr is good imo!
I don't think opening it up anyway will give you more speed, I think it's wound for no more than 25-26mph so more watts will give you more torque, but not speed!