So Where do I find the software?

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Folks,

I got my replacement MP3 controller, with USB, and now I need the software to talk to the thing.  Where is it hidden?  I found I don't need the 48 VDC, and a couple of " down load the program here"  links that didn't work. 

Am I  just old an blind?

TTFN,
Dennis

[Bikemad]

Hi Dennis, the most recent recent software is available on the GM Website, just below the USB interface cables in the "Motor Controller" section.
Here is a direct link to the programming software which is compressed into a RAR file.

If you don't have WinRAR installed on your computer, check out this post for more information regarding installation problems with the software.

I have attached a step by step guide to installing the program in such a way that it will work reasonably well, simply by making the Data.mxf file read only. If this is not done, it instantly becomes unusable when the RPM setting has been changed and then saved, which prevents the program from opening up again when you subsequently try to run it.

I have also attached a zip file containing three data files that I have manually modified with a binary editor in an attempt to try and get more than 25 Amps continuous, as well as allowing Peak Amp values of 55, 60 and 65 Amps to be set. I did this because the software does not allow Peak values of more than 50 Amps max to be entered.
I also found that loading the factory default values is the simplest way to return to a peak value of 70 Amps if you have used the software to lower it.

Unfortunately, this new controller seems to be pretty much like the other Pie controllers, as the Amp values entered in the software are considerably different to the actual current being drawn by the motor.

I've just been bench testing my motor on a 25.9V 10Ah LiPo pack and managed to record a maximum of 25.13 Amps @ 27.2 Volts = 683.7 Watts. Although this is almost a 24% increase over my original Pie, I feel it's still a bit on the low side considering the Peak setting in the software is now up to 70 Amps.
I know it's not being restricted by my battery pack as this pack regularly puts out up nearly 60Amps, and the LiPo cells I'm using are actually rated 20-30C, which is 200 Amps continuous and 300 Amps bursts with my 7S2P configuration.

Before I carried out the shunt modification on my original MkI Pie, I recorded a maximum of 20.29 Amps @ 25.8 Volts = 525 Watts, but afterwards, the maximum increased to 59.73 Amps @ 27.29 Volts = 1630 Watts using the same battery pack.
My highest recorded measurement to date stands at 60.35 Amps @ 51.5V = 3108.2 Watts, and this was powered by the same LiPo cells, which were reconfigured into a 14S1P 51.8V 5Ah pack.

I am glad my next controller will have the USB cable built into it.

Since you've apparently received it, can you please clarify whether the USB lead is actually built into the new controller like you were expecting? because I'm pretty sure you will have received a separate plug in programming lead as shown here, which has simply been shipped together with the controller:


Alan
 

[Morgen 3Eman]

Hi Alan,

GM was kind enough to sell me a cable just like the one in your photo, and shipped it with the controller.

You said a bad word, you naughty boy.  "WinRar" , indeed.  I quit using MS products when Apple started using Intel processors.  (My kid is an Intel engineer).  I'll have to borrow one of his laptops, or maybe I'll just skip changing anything...What would you recommend?  Is there anything worth doing?

I bench tested the thumb throttle, as I was concerned it may have been damaged by the shorted signal wire, but it checked out just fine.  I'm really surprised after reading about all the Hall effect device problems. 

Maybe the weather will cooperate and I can take it for a test ride this week. The weather has been so cold that I fitted the leather for the seat seat this week.   I'd really like to actually drive the damn thing.  Once I've tested it, I have to take it all apart for painting, and I'm looking forward to getting a paint brush in my hand again.   It will be my biggest oil painting to date.

Thanks again for all your help.  You have been most kind.

TTFN,
Dennis

[Leslie]

If you don't dig Winrar.  7-zip is free and has a wide range of formats. I like free.

http://www.7-zip.org/

Just install your version OS, right click, drag the file you want to decompress to where you want it to decompress, release mouse and choose from a popup drop down menu, "extract to (filename)" and left click your highlighted choice.  It should take you a minute tops.

[Leslie]

Oh and ask Gary about cold weather and what to wear.  I live in sunny, floody QLD..  The most I do is two pair of underclothes some wind proof nylon over the top and a scarf around the neck and mouth.  I also wear safety glasses at night to avoid cold air making me cry.  In summer, safety glasses are a must because of those flying bugs.  Some can sting your eyes really bad.  And I wear sunglasses in the day.





^^^Super Gary.^^^ 

There is a huge difference to riding a normal bike to an ebike in both summer and winter. You don't get hot from pedaling. 

Summer is awesome.  The bike moving is like a fan, as you wont get hot pedaling.

Winter is not so awesome.  You will get soo cold. 

A lot of people advise ski gear if it gets too cold.  Mits instead of gloves to keep your fingers together with no cold air in between.

[Sanfrancisco]

Hi Dennis, the most recent recent software is available on the GM Website, just below the USB interface cables in the "Motor Controller" section.
Here is a direct link to the programming software which is compressed into a RAR file.

If you don't have WinRAR installed on your computer, check out this post for more information regarding installation problems with the software.

I have attached a step by step guide to installing the program in such a way that it will work reasonably well, simply by making the Data.mxf file read only. If this is not done, it instantly becomes unusable when the RPM setting has been changed and then saved, which prevents the program from opening up again when you subsequently try to run it.

I have also attached a zip file containing three data files that I have manually modified with a binary editor in an attempt to try and get more than 25 Amps continuous, as well as allowing Peak Amp values of 55, 60 and 65 Amps to be set. I did this because the software does not allow Peak values of more than 50 Amps max to be entered.
I also found that loading the factory default values is the simplest way to return to a peak value of 70 Amps if you have used the software to lower it.

Unfortunately, this new controller seems to be pretty much like the other Pie controllers, as the Amp values entered in the software are considerably different to the actual current being drawn by the motor.

I've just been bench testing my motor on a 25.9V 10Ah LiPo pack and managed to record a maximum of 25.13 Amps @ 27.2 Volts = 683.7 Watts. Although this is almost a 24% increase over my original Pie, I feel it's still a bit on the low side considering the Peak setting in the software is now up to 70 Amps.
I know it's not being restricted by my battery pack as this pack regularly puts out up nearly 60Amps, and the LiPo cells I'm using are actually rated 20-30C, which is 200 Amps continuous and 300 Amps bursts with my 7S2P configuration.

Before I carried out the shunt modification on my original MkI Pie, I recorded a maximum of 20.29 Amps @ 25.8 Volts = 525 Watts, but afterwards, the maximum increased to 59.73 Amps @ 27.29 Volts = 1630 Watts using the same battery pack.
My highest recorded measurement to date stands at 60.35 Amps @ 51.5V = 3108.2 Watts, and this was powered by the same LiPo cells, which were reconfigured into a 14S1P 51.8V 5Ah pack.

I am glad my next controller will have the USB cable built into it.

Since you've apparently received it, can you please clarify whether the USB lead is actually built into the new controller like you were expecting? because I'm pretty sure you will have received a separate plug-in programming lead as shown here, which has simply been shipped together with the controller:


Alan

Thanks Alan for this post. Just to confirm I too had the same experience with max amps to be 25A no matter what. Seeing anything higher than 25A on a start (I live in hilly, very hilly part of San Francisco, it is the torque rather than speed that I need) was an unfulfilled dream.

Perhaps we will have to wait till they upgrade the firmware or one of us will come up with a way to alter effective peak power for the internal MP III controller.

[Leslie]

I had an issue running the installer in windows 7 it has a runtime error MSCOMCTLOXC.  You can download the file here and just add it to the folder and it works.

http://activex.microsoft.com/controls/vb6/mscomctl.cab

[Leslie]

These little internal controller are excellent in terms of technology.  I have older version software going today and programmed 75% speed forward and 80% regen due to the loss of RPM with speed set low..  I'm detecting a min max threshold between where your throttle is held when you engage regen. If you engage regen at full throttle it engages harder, I'm not sure yet, Ill have a play around with it.