Power cuts out on GM 48 volt 1000 watt - Help

[fearlessfostick]

This evening my bike started having power outs.  It starts fine (gives two beeps which is usual) and shows full power.  As I start to ride the lights  shut down one by one until the power dies.  I turn the key on and off and I get full power again the same power down cycle continues.  The battery is fully charged.  Any ideas?
Thanks Peter     

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey what battery are you using?

It could possibly be an issue with the BMS?

[fearlessfostick]

It's the GM 48 volt 12 ah Lipo battery

[GM Canada]

The battery is either 48v12 ah lithium or 48v10 ah lifepo4. Either way that doesnt solve the issue.

Two beeps is normal? If I recall two beeps is failed hall sensors and the controller beeps as it goes into sensorless mode. Check your wires by unpluging and repluging everything. Sometimes the contact seems good until you unlug it and can tell the conection was not good. Could be a loose conection in the wires causing resistance. There have also been recent issues with keyswitches maybe yours is fouled.

Gary

[mike662]

The battery is either 48v12 ah lithium or 48v10 ah lifepo4. Either way that doesnt solve the issue.

Two beeps is normal? If I recall two beeps is failed hall sensors and the controller beeps as it goes into sensorless mode. Check your wires by unpluging and repluging everything. Sometimes the contact seems good until you unlug it and can tell the conection was not good. Could be a loose conection in the wires causing resistance. There have also been recent issues with keyswitches maybe yours is fouled.

Gary

Hi Gary,

My battery seems to be getting weaker and before I test the cells on it I would like to test out the key switch to see if maybe it is the problem. I've done a quick search but can't find a thread on how to disassemble the key switch for cleaning. Any chance you know the link to such a thread or could post instructions on how to do it?

[GM Canada]

I have not tried disassembling a key switch to clean it.

My methods are more brutal but in my opinion, there is only one method to positively see if it is the switch. Open the battery and carefully clip the wires and bypass the switch. Be sure they don't make contact with the case the sparks will scare the crap out of you. Others will tell you to use a jumper cable to bypass the switch and I have done this myself. But one time even with what I thought was a good jumper connection the battery was no better until I clipped the wires and reconnected them without the switch involved.

I am ordering some new keyswitches from GM send me an email if you need one.

Gary

[fearlessfostick]

Since making this post I have been able to ride the bike but still experience power outs.  I have the 48 volt 12.5Ah  Lithium Manganese battery and fully charged reads at 56.4V.  Power will cut out at beginning if I apply significant throttle. If I apply the throttle gradually the power stays on.   I also did a small hill and when I quickly applied full throttle the power died.  Turn the  key off and on and I register full power again.  As long as I don't crank the throttle the power doesn't cut out.  I don't think it is the BMS (the battery is fully charged) I suspect the key switch being overloaded.  It still might be a loose connection but I have shaken the battery cable and the controller but can't repeat the problem.  Any further ideas?
Thanks    

[DirtyGinge]

My Anderson connector in the battery would spark a lot and cut out......check for wear/dirt etc....

[MonkeyMagic]

Ok this has always puzzled me.....

On my bike, the rear wheel makes a massive spark - and when you connect the wheel plug power connector instead you can clearly see the spark flying out the sides!!

But on the front wheel, there little to no spark.... Just a very quiet 'click' noise.

Fair enough. But it seriously makes me wonder because the front wheel is more powerful than the rear!!! I cannot explain it. Unless there is a problem with the rear one to cause such a spark, both operate individually exactly the same as driven together so I have no idea why one sparks so much more than the other.

[e-lmer]

I think that spark is the capacitor inside the controller charging up.
The smaller the capacitor the smaller the spark.
I always thought there should be a pre-connect tap that
charges the capacitor through a resistor to keep the contacts
from getting pitted during the connection, but nobody seems to
do that.

Instead they suggest a contactor that is to take the spark
and hide it from you. 

[MonkeyMagic]

I think that spark is the capacitor inside the controller charging up.
The smaller the capacitor the smaller the spark.
I always thought there should be a pre-connect tap that
charges the capacitor through a resistor to keep the contacts
from getting pitted during the connection, but nobody seems to
do that.

Instead they suggest a contactor that is to take the spark
and hide it from you. 

True, but how come my rear one sparks so much more than the front? I powered up the 16" cast MP wheel and it has a big spark too so its just the front 20" motor that is the black sheep

I know its from the caps, and usually the switch contains the spark (in my case a relay) - I was just really curious as to why my front wheel does not have this....

Doesnt matter haha just was a mystery... I'll keep happy its working

[e-lmer]

Just different current sinking abilities before everything gets stable.
The difference is all in the controller electronics.

[Easy Roller]

I am having the same problem. I have a 36v Lithium Goldenmotor 901 pro kit. Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm thinking it might be the pedal assist? Maybe my fishing pole case hit the right combination of buttons to activate it. I can pedal get up to speed and hit the throttle and the way I go or if I'm going downhill no problem but if it gets under stress it will cut out. If I just keep the throttle on it will come back on and then cut out come back on and then cut out and it seems to be getting worse. I’ve tried turning off the key switch, unplugging the battery, I even unplugged the brakes, cruise control, horn leaving only the motor and twist throttle connected to the controller. Nothing has worked. Any ideas on how to fix this problem?

[roger j berube]

gary my 48 volts 12 amp bike I turn the key on full power I give it full throtel its dies full charge 53.8 is that right or one of my batters no good I know it not key switch I pick up the rear of the bike give it full throdel its works fine

[dofbikes]

Hi everyone. I'm facing the same problem. Just assembled the kit (with 9 speed gearing after CNC machine the drive side plate, I've already posted on it! http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=3650.msg21698#msg21698) and runned about 6 kilometers (mostly flat land)
I already tried to figure it out in many different ways. On fun throttle power dies. If it is gradual it keeps running but not for too long, just if it's running slow (using the cruise control).
In the beginning I thought it was because of high temperature but let it get cooler but problem remains.
In fact i'm facing problems with key switch also...
Any sugestion?