Magic Pie 5 Several Serious Issues

[Leftiebiker]

   I finally got the conversion finished enough to first bench test the bike (no obvious issues) and then road test it - with real issues...

   I had wanted to dial back the power at first, both to make it easier to adjust to this motor and to not stress test my wiring job. I successfully loaded these parameters into the motor (I'm going by memory here, but will confirm them tomorrow):

Regen: On, 20%

Throttle: On, twist grip ordered with the motor from GM

Acceleration: 60%

Max amps: either 18 or 20, not sure which

max phase amps: 40

Max rotation: 250

Voltage: 48, left the prefilled defaults in place


   As I prepared to ride I started the phone and then the bike, and...no Bluetooth. No connection, no light, flashing or otherwise, on the dongle. The dongle didn't appear in a search. I decided to ride anyway, without instrumentation. I started off with no problems, other than a rubbing rear fender. I turned around half a block away, moved the rubbing part of the fender, and started off again. This time, the acceleration was uneven, with fits and starts, and power fading. Oddly, braking briefly restored most of the power, but only for a few seconds. The battery was freshly charged. This is the old battery from the Metro, stored with about a 50% charge and then recharged. It was a little quick to drop voltage on the Metro, but was still working fine otherwise when stored. Not understanding what was going on, I ended up taking about a 2 mile ride, with the power fading and returning, fading and returning after using the brakes. Activating Cruise Control stopped the surging, but the power stayed low.

   I'm going to try unplugging the brake cables tomorrow, and swapping in the new battery. In the meantime, any ideas...?? How exactly do I request a new Bluetooth dongle from GM? And finally, can I just buy a display and a programming cable, and use them to replace the Bluetooth option? I regret not researching the Bluetooth version before ordering the motor, and would like to correct that mistake.

[Bikemad]

Hi LB,

Sorry that I couldn't reply sooner, but I've been busy dealing with more important home and business related matters.

I'm going to try unplugging the brake cables tomorrow, and swapping in the new battery. In the meantime, any ideas...?? How exactly do I request a new Bluetooth dongle from GM?

Did the new battery or disconnecting the brakes cables cure the problem?

If the Bluetooth works OK with the brakes unplugged, you may have a problem with your brake switch connections.

If it doesn't work with the brake connectors unplugged, try measuring the voltage between the red and black brake wires to see if it has the expected 4~5V.

If the +5V voltage is too low, the Bluetooth dongle will not operate correctly and it can also affect the throttle operation.

If the voltage is correct (and the Bluetooth dongle is still not working) you will need to contact your supplier by phone or email to discuss the problem with them.

Unfortunately, if the +5V output voltage is still too low with the brake switches disconnected, then it may be a damaged or faulty controller. 

And finally, can I just buy a display and a programming cable, and use them to replace the Bluetooth option? I regret not researching the Bluetooth version before ordering the motor, and would like to correct that mistake.

You would need to purchase the MP5 version of the BAC-601 Smart Display to adjust pedelec modes, monitor speed, power and battery level etc. and also the PI-405 USB programming cable to adjust the controller's parameters etc.

Alan
 

[Leftiebiker]

   It wasn't the brake inhibitors. I made adapters, so I was really hoping it was that, but no. Also not a battery issue. I'm in contact with GM support, and they think it's likely the controller. I have a new 5 wire thumb throttle ordered, and I'll install that when it arrives, as a Hail Mary pass. I'm really unhappy at the prospect of having to pull the rear wheel just to watch a red LED. Why couldn't they have made it visible with the controller in place??? And I'm also a bit sick at the thought that those #@@!@ brake screws may have damaged the controller, despite me never running the motor while they were binding the wheel.

   It's my birthday, BTW. The gods are laughing.

[Leftiebiker]

   I think I've found the problem. What I thought was a symptom was apparently the actual problem. This morning, doing a quick bench run in the garage, the motor response seemed normal again. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why! Then I remembered that I had removed the non-functioning Bluetooth dongle last night. I took a test ride this evening, and sure enough the motor was behaving almost normally. I say almost because it still gets a little anemic under some conditions, but still has enough power to climb steep hills in cruise control mode. I suspect that the remaining symptoms are from the cautious parameters I set the one time the dongle worked. Now I have to wait for the programming cable and display to arrive next week...