This is the bit that concerns me the most:
The default rotation of our motor is in reverse direction so we have changed the U & W wires and using it..
In addition to swapping the thick Blue
(U) and Yellow
(W) Phase wires, the thin Green and Yellow Hall sensor wires
must also be swapped.
If you have not swapped the Green and Yellow Hall sensor wires, you need to do this to enable the motor to run correctly, as this could be the main cause of the low torque.
The maximum current settings will be determined by your battery's maximum and continuous current rating.
If your battery is not capable of delivering 80A, the
Battery drawn current limit (A) should be reduced to match the battery's maximum current rating.
I seem to recall that the
Rated phase current (A) should be set about 30% higher than the
Battery drawn current (A) (i.e. 80A battery current x 1.3= 104A) but I think some trial and error may be necessary here to obtain the best performance without overheating the motor or controller.
I have not seen any information from GM regarding the Boost and Stall functions, but they are obviously intended to protect both the battery and motor from being unnecessarily overloaded.
If you battery has a burst current rating of xx Amps for xx seconds, I would try to adjust the available boost settings
(and possibly the Maximum phase current duration (s)) based upon these figures.
Your
stall protection time(s) is currently set to 2 seconds, but it might be necessary to increase this slightly if the motor is still cutting out from a standstill
(with the correct Phase and Hall wire configuration), as this should allow the motor more time to initially speed up.
Also, I hope that your torque requirement of 95Nm at the wheel is only required at speeds below 12mph
(~20km/h), as the motor is not likely to produce this amount of torque above 1500rpm on a 48V battery.
Alan