Throttle Light and Smart Display not turning on

[Adamsavage79]

I was riding the bike today and everything was fine, but now the throttle lights and the smart display will not turn on. The throttle itself still works though. Not sure what could be going on.

[Bikemad]

Unless they have altered the wiring layout, the battery feed to the LED battery gauge and the Smart Display comes from the controller's wiring harness.

First check that none of the pins on the Smart Display connector have been damaged (bent over). If the pins are all OK, I would say the wiring attached directly to the controller probably has a fault somewhere within it.
Try wriggling the cables near the 5 cable connection block and see if the movement causes the battery gauge and/or smart display to work.

Alan
 

[Adamsavage79]

The Smart Display would only turn on, if the red button on the throttle was depressed in. I checked for bent pins, and as expected I have none. It was working when I went to work, left work. It non longer worked after I went to sobeys. All I did was press the red button to turn off the display and lights on the throttle. The trottle still responds to being twisted, but that is it. I even seperated the wires from the single wire coming out from the 4 wire connection block. You mentioned a 5 wire block ? Do you include the one coming out from behind that has a open end, with no connector ?

I talked to Gary on the phone, and he thinks it's either the wrong throttle somehow, or the wrong wiring harness. Said the red button, is only supposed to turn off the lights, and not cut power to the Smart Disply. Which I admit, I thought was odd myself when it did that, but thought it was normal.

[Adamsavage79]

I guess I will have to put on my old Speedometer, so I know how fast or slow I'm going and how far I've gone. I have no idea how long this will take to resolve. I should add that, without the throttle connected, the smart display still does not turn on, nor does the horn work on the 2 button switch. Perhaps this a controller problem, and this is why the Bluetooth never worked ? I'm not even sure if the one I sent back, was tested to see if it indeed was defective.

[Adamsavage79]

The bike does still work normally, aside from the Smart Display not coming on, or the lights on the throttle. The Smart Display still wont come on, and it does not seem to matter, if the throttle is conected or not. My guess is somehow the wiring harness is at fault, but I'm not sure how. It's just wires, and nothing else. My 2nd guess is the controller is acting up. It is disappointing that I spent over $800 for this kit, only to have these kind of problems, so quickly... Even more so, for a brand that is so highly rated. Maybe I'm just unlucky, and I got a bad batch of stuff. My thought though, is if the controller is at fault, then it was the problem all this time. The dongle likely worked, but the controller wouldn't work with it properly ? I'm just guesing here, as this motor is more advanced than I'm used to.

My old kit was simple. External controller, that had to be mounted on the bike. Was in the way of things, and prone to water damage. Yet at the same time, the kit was simple. Hook everything up and everything just worked. The overide switch would do it's thing and lower the voltage/speed on the bike. It was not without it flaws though.

That being said, despite the problems with the Golden Motor kit. I like that it's quite, has high torgue, the controller is built into the wheel and all the wiring, including the controller is designed for very easy removal and replacement.

[Bikemad]

Hi Adam,

If you carefully study the wiring diagram below, you should be able to see the "Battery +" on pin 3 of the 10 pin main harness connector, and the "Battery +" on pin 5 of the 5 pin Smart Display/Bluetooth/programming connector in the Motor harness section.
Both of these supplies are usually fed (in parallel with each other) directly from the thick red Battery + cable in the controller's harness.

If the Smart Display was only being supplied with battery power when the lighting switch was pressed in (as you have indicated) both the controller and the main harness would need to have been wired differently using one of the two unused contacts in the main control harness to return the "Battery +" supply back to the controller's wiring from the lighting switch on the throttle (assuming 9 or 10 core cable was being used).

However, if the power to the Smart Display unit was actually being removed when the switch was pressed in (switched On) this could have been caused by a short circuit to ground on the red lighting feed wire coming from the throttle switch, which would simultaneously short out the battery supply feeding the Smart Display.
If this were the case (with good soldered connections inside the harness) I would normally have expected some burnt wires within the wiring (or burnt out switch contacts) as soon as the button was initially pressed.



I suspect that there could have been a poor soldered joint within the controller's cabling, that had a high enough resistance to prevent the wires/switch contacts from burning, and it is possible that this poor joint has now failed completely.

You mentioned a 5 wire block ? Do you include the one coming out from behind that has a open end, with no connector ?

The molded 5 cable connector block is part of the controller's wiring and is located ~20cm (~8") from the controller.
The 5 cables are as follows:

• Main cable coming from controller
• Reverse/PAS cable
• Control harness cable
• Battery power cable
• Smart Display, Bluetooth dongle and USB programming cable

If my suspicions are correct, a replacement controller should cure the Smart Display problem, but you need to make sure that the ends of the four unused wires for the headlamp and horn (the ones you subsequently separated on the main control harness) remain well insulated from each other.

Alan
 

[Adamsavage79]

You keep refering to 5 wires and I'm lost. The only thing that I can see that has 5 wires, is further up the wiring harnes. I have seperated the plugs from that, and I believe the 4 small wires, that come out the other end. I did the same for the main wire block coming out of the controller. The "drip wire" has all the wires seperated from each other as well.

The thick wire coming out of the wheel/controller goes to this block. Then out of the block 3 large wires come out and go foward, towards the front of the bike. Out of the block, you have this small wire, with glue on the tip of it. I've heard this reffered to the drip wire. There is no  "5 wires"

[Bikemad]

I was simply referring to the 5 "cables" not the number of separate "wires" within each of the cables.

The molded 5 cable connector block is part of the controller's wiring and is located ~20cm (~8") from the controller.
The 5 cables are as follows:

• Main cable coming from controller
• Reverse/PAS cable
• Control harness cable
• Battery power cable
• Smart Display, Bluetooth dongle and USB programming cable

If the "poor soldered joint" that I previously mentioned actually exists, it will be somewhere inside this molded rubber connector block which encompasses the various connections between numerous wires from the 5 different cables going into it.

In the above picture;
Cable 1 has 2 thick battery wires and 8 thin wires.
Cable 2 has 4 thin wires.
Cable 3 has 8 (or possibly 10) thin wires.
Cable 4 has 2 thick wires.
Cable 5 has 5 thin wires

Alan
 

[Adamsavage79]

I think the problem could be the controller. I managed to get out, and Gary told me to look for a blinking LED light. There was no light blinking at all. The controller made a slight click sound, when I connected the power cable, but that is it. I even tried jiggling the wires abit to see if that would help.

EDIT: I'm going to assume that if there was a LED light to blink anywhere, it would be on the same side of the controller that faces inwards, towards the motor.

oh and I did a pretty dumb thing. I forgot I had to put the heat sink back on FIRST, then put the other screws back on. Ended up spripping them, and only could 3/6 out with screw extractor. Ended up leaving the motor with the Car Repair shop just behind my house, for them to get the screws out. I feel like such a idiot for doing this.

[JJ]

Adam, Gary had me do the same thing with my new controller. You are correct, the red LED is located on the 'in' side of the controller between the Yellow spade connector and the 6 pin connector. I have a couple (both from Luna) that don't flash and the new one he just sent me does.

[Adamsavage79]

Adam, Gary had me do the same thing with my new controller. You are correct, the red LED is located on the 'in' side of the controller between the Yellow spade connector and the 6 pin connector. I have a couple (both from Luna) that don't flash and the new one he just sent me does.

Ok! Thank you! I was wondering if I was loosing my mind, as it didn't flash for me. When I get the motor back from the car shop, I will test the seperated wires for power, to confrim I do indeed have power. I could just twist the throttle, but I risk twisting the wires in a way that will damage them. I do get a slight "click" sound, when I plug power cable in. This is the same sound, I heard when I was dry testing kit, before I put it on my bike.

Will update Wednesday.

[Adamsavage79]

Got Motor back. Cost me $5 for them to remove the screws. I have to now replace the small screws on the controller, because they are made from very cheap aluminum and the heads are stripped. I can't get them to screw all the way in, without further stripping them. So I remove a few while I still could and I'm going to Ottawa Fastener to get simlair ones. Hopefully with a better head.

As for theyLights. They do come on, and it flashes quite a few times. I took a short video of it, and put it on Dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vep0vomye16che1/20180411_165849.mp4?dl=0

[Bikemad]

The 14 regular flashes is an indication that the throttle or control harness is disconnected.

Alan
 

[Adamsavage79]

The 14 regular flashes is an indication that the throttle or control harness is disconnected.

Alan

Yes, they where. I hooked them back up and I got only a single flash.

[Bikemad]

The single flash is what normally happens when you power up with everything connected and no detected faults.
It is basically a test function to check that the LED is working OK.

Your loss of battery feed to the Smart Display and front control harness would not be detected by the controller as the controller still has a very good (directly connected) battery feed.

The smart display still does not turn on, nor does the horn work on the 2 button switch.

Even if you had the correct battery feed at the front harness, the horn button will only sound a horn if you have specifically fitted a suitable battery voltage powered horn and wired it up to the unterminated horn supply and ground wires.

Please note that a horn is not usually supplied as standard with any of the internal controller kits.

Alan