external GM controller broke down?

[Thomas K]

hi everyone,

I wonder if anyone can help me.
i think my controller broke down again.
the new GM controller (external) is it better?
 i'm sick and tired of getting so much broken down controllers.
this is the 3th one (2 internal and 1 external)
I wonder if standard electric bikes have the same problems?
the only thing my controller still does is regenbrake.
can anyone please tell me how I can check if the controller still works? (without the throttle attached )

thanks in advance.


Deffie

[truly_bent]

This being a GM site and all, I'm not sure how far i'd go in criticizing their controllers, but I hate seeing somebody suffer.

The GM controllers appear to be technically advanced, but i'd be checking the build quality of the controller minutely before putting one in operation, and even then i'd always carry a spare. I think somebody at GM is being "penny wise and pound foolish" in the manufacture of their bicycle controllers.

If you want your controller problems to go away, buy a Lyen at http://lyen.com/. Sorry GM

Jeff

[Morgen 3Eman]

My experience backs up Jeff's advice.  Buy a Lyen.  Two GM MP3 controllers failed with very few hours (minutes, really) on them.  My Lyen has close to a hundred hours dragging  400 lbs around. 

It is a shame such nice design work is being screwed over the by the low assembly quality and component penny pinching  I saw in my two failed GM controllers.  Just as an example, the controller is to be used with a 57-58 volt fully charged battery, and the capacitors are only rated for 60 volts. That is just dumb, and the layout tells me the designers were not dumb. 

That said, I don't understand how the controller can work only in Regen.   The output FETs have to be sequenced properly for regen to work, and they should then also drive the motor.    Did you try disconnecting your brake connectors?  If one of the brake switches is on, the motor wont drive, but the regen would still work.  I fell for that..........

TTFN,
Dennis

Ps MR Lyen is easy to work with, too.  And he answers his email.   

[Thomas K]

Thanks guys for your advice!
Maybe i'll buy a Lyen controller later, but I would like to know if the new GM http://www.devi-motion.com/webshop/controller/p-1/D1000521--bldc-motor-controller-%2848v-2000w%29.html
 is any better?
it seems that it has the same dimensions as the version that I have so it fits in the box I made for it.
another thing is that i'm not familiar with the electronics in the controller so I would not know what and how to measure to check if  it still can be fixed.

In case of ordering a Lyen controller, I would not know witch one would suit my needs. hes got quit a few different controllers...

thanks again for all answers.

Deffie (aka Thomas) 

[truly_bent]

The BAC-0501 is rated for 50A, whereas the BAC-281P at 30A or thereabouts. The only advantage to using the 501 is that it'll run cooler - assuming similar heat sinking.

The question i'd be asking is if they were manufactured using the same labor pool. The boards are obviously different animals, but were they made in the same factory? (Have you seen some of those factories? Huge.)

However, far be it for me to stand in the way of R&D. I'd be curious to hear some feedback on that controller too.

Jeff

[Thomas K]

 Hi guys,

now I got me the BAC-0501, but it does not support PAS apparently.
Also I would really like to get the wiring color codes, because it just does not match up with the colors of my wiring like the throttle.
so please can anybody tell me how I can sort this out?

thanks in advance.

[Bikemad]

Hi Thomas,

The 6 pin hall sensor socket should connect to the Yellow, Green, Blue, Black and Red hall sensor wires (N1 will not be used).

The 12 pin socket appears to have the same connections as the BAC-028XP:



in which case I would expect the wires to connect as follows:

• Throttle +5V supply wire (red) would go to connection 5V
• Throttle 0V ground wire (black) would go to connection GND
• Throttle Signal wire (usually white, but sometimes green) would go to connection SP
• Brake Switch Signal wire (blue) would go to connection BR
• Cruise control Signal wire would go to connection C
• Reverse Signal wire would go to connection R/F
• A battery positive feed must be connected to B+ to enable the controller
• Horn signal wire might go to connection N2 if this controller supports it, in which case the horn would probably connect to X1 and X2

The four pin connector with GND, Y1, Y2 and Y3 might be for a speed reducer switch, but this is just a wild guess. 

Did your controller come with a wiring harness and plugs etc. or just the controller on its own?

Alan
 

[Tsjoechov]

Hi!

I'm having difficulties as well. It appears that the controller (BAC 0501) does not react to any input at all. This morning I connected it to a lab power supply and measured the voltage between the ground and 5V. I raised the voltage up to 32V and 1A and measured a maximum of 0.3V. Far from 5V

Situation:
- motor disconnected
- power supply raised to 32V and 1A
- maximum voltage output at the +5v output is 0.3V
- L1 connected to B+

Am I missing something? Did I mess up any connections (for the power switch)? Did I get a faulty controller? (the latter starts appear to be true)? Is the documentation really that bad?

I'm new at this forum and haven't really found my way yet. I'm sorry if this is a known issue that has already been discussed many times.

Any help is deeply appreciated!

Michiel