All is good, just a few more need to knows about the Pedelec etc.

[Thomas K]

Hey everybody,

here I am again with another problem.
I have bought my MP III (internal) about 3 months ago, also with an GM battery-pack 48V 10A.
at first the controller died after 1 week or so, so I contacted GM and they gave me an brand new one since it was under warranty.
the second controller worked fine for about 2 weeks, then the same problem (it broke down).
After the second controller broke down, I bargained for the external controller because it suppose to be more reliable.
David from GM, really came thru and fixed that for me to (only had to pay for the extra wires).
so naw I'm thinking every problem solved, but no.
yesterday my battery-pack almost cached fire.
i was just riding, minding my own business when suddenly I got no response from the PAS.
so when I wanted to cut of power to the controller, I feld the key was hot (not warm but hot).
when I opened the battery-pack to see what was wrong with it I fount that it was burned out.
it seems the keycontact had burned out maybe damaging my battery-pack and controller.
so when I reloaded the battery after disconnecting the contact, I got about 84V of it (multimeter) and before it was only 57V.
does anybody know how this can be?
i must say that I'm serious disappointed with the product.
I've had it for about 3 months, and got to use it about 3 weeks now. all the other time was spend on sending and receiving damaged and new stuff.
I'm seriously  thinking about selling the lot and buying me an prepaired E-bike.
but I'm also willing to give one more last try.
can I try and connect the battery to the controller again even with 84V reading on multimeter?
can anyone tell me if there is a better keycontact for this batterypack that I can install myself?
How did it get broken at all?
thanks for you reply.

greetz,
Deffie

[Thomas K]

OK, I have repaired the battery-pack by putting a waterproof switch in it (12A-240v)
It seems my multimeter is broken, because I just took it for a test drive and my bike seems to be working fine now.
i'll pick up a new one later so I can check everything again.
still don't know if anyone can can tell me why the original switch got smoked, anyone got the same experience?
all answers are welcome!
and I really like to know where you guys place the external controller.
I'm thinking of making a aluminum case where it can fit in with the cables, and leave the coolingfins of the controller in open air.
don't know if it's clear what I mean, but I like to see some foto's of external controllers build in somewhere


thanks

greetz,
Deffie

[Henry Chang]

I guess, the red line is not firm contact battery lock.
I often see that external controller in the box  is installed under the RAK.

[Thomas K]

Thank you for the answer Henry!
I was wondering if the controller would not get to hot in a closed box?
It seems my controller really get warm when i'm driving a while.
But if you think it wil work, I wil use a plastic box instead of an aluminium.

[Thomas K]

Hi there,

I finally had some time to make me a box to put the controller in.
I made it in aluminum, so the heat dispense would be better.
also I've made an opening at the bottom of the box so the coolingfins are in open air.
i suppose a few drops wont harm the controller as long as there's no water getting in the box?
it's mounted on the bike with straps for now, later I will make it permanent, when the testing is over. :-)
still like to here some tips about getting the controller best protected in the box.
thanks for the reply!

Deffie
   

[Bikemad]

I have previously suggested bolting the controller on the underside of the box and sealing around the joint with silicon sealant to ensure it remains watertight.

As you don't have rear suspension on your bike, there should be enough room for you to reshape the existing cut-out in the base of the box and set the controller into it from below, leaving the body of the controller completely exposed to the air for much better cooling.

If you make an accurate card template first, you can simply transfer the shape of the required cut-out to the bottom of your box before reshaping the existing hole to match the template.



I guess it's probably a little bit late now, but if the controller was mounted sideways so that the widest part was positioned widthways across the box, the cooling air would be able to flow between the cooling fins allowing the heat to be dissipated far more effectively.

It might also be possible to open up and reassemble the controller with the box actually sandwiched between the top and bottom casings using the original rubber gasket to seal between the lower finned section and the box. You would also need to fill the two bolt holes in the controller casing with silicone to prevent water getting in.

Alan
 

[Thomas K]

Thanks Alan for the advice.

Now i've been testing my bike for 2 month, and no problems anymore.
I must say once it's working it's a superbike! I just love it.
I do have another question.
do you have experience with binding an usb-cable and the cable to the controller?
my controller is mounted in a box, and when I want to adjust something I need o remove the box completely.
I was thinking of soldering a usb to the controller cable so that I can leave the box and just pull out the cable to program.
I hope you understand what I mean.

best regards,
Deffie
 

[Thomas K]

In also looking for a pedelecsystem that supports the gm controller but works different. The gm pedelec always gives full power, no matter how hard I'm peddeling. Does annyone know a system that supports according to the power you put on peddals compatible with the external gm controller?

One other thing. When I use regenbrake, everytime I start again the motor rumbles like the brake is stll on. I always have to pedal backwards to make it stop and then the system works great again.
all answers are welcome, thanks.

sorry for my bad English...