twisted wires

[svalie]

I have had nothing but problems since I got my kit. For the moment the problem is that the axel have bended the slots and that the wires were twisted and some of them broke of. I have had sporadic contact with mister Yao at the supportoffice. He is kind and helpful when he answers, but he seldom does.
Is there a solution to this or should I just get a new one. If anyone has god advice please don´t answer with to many technical terms.
Thank you.

[Leslie]

I have had nothing but problems since I got my kit. For the moment the problem is that the axel have bended the slots and that the wires were twisted and some of them broke of. I have had sporadic contact with mister Yao at the supportoffice. He is kind and helpful when he answers, but he seldom does.
Is there a solution to this or should I just get a new one. If anyone has god advice please don´t answer with to many technical terms.
Thank you.

Dont test the hub in regen without


Ok I know how you feel! 

This problem is a common one with most hub wheels through my own fault my bike fell over on a pebble drive way and the wires broke too...

Is your hub front or rear? And you may have more problems than just your hub now.

Ill just copy paste my thread here but it is a lot of work for you.


Dont test the hub in regen or any at time without doing the wheel nuts up tight and do not test the hub or controller until your wires are fixed..l

I almost made this mistake myself. You see people on youtube testing the wheel at full speed while holding them with there hands.  NOOOOOOO,  !

In regen! Wheel goes very fast and the axel wont stop when you stop the throttle..



Doing at home with the limited tools was rather time consuming.

The first thing was to undo the hub housing bolts on the first side. You do not need to take the sprocket off or anything.
Using two bread and butter knives I edged one side off carefuly with out any trouble what-so ever.  If this is a problem a little spray lube might help.

WARNING

If you take the rotor out don't forget to mark which way the wheel goes and which direction it turns to go forward,  This is very important as magnets are set to go one way.


This was my favorite bit, you don't need to do this it makes it easier to play with and makes easier to get the other side off with out a press,  I didnt like using the hammer while the rotor sat inside stuck to the side of the the hub ....

Remove the other sides housing bolts after you remove the first hub housing side...

I grabbed either sides of the hub and pushed the rotor out with my shoes... Make sure it land on a soft pillow.








The other side proved a little more difficult so I employed a little help with a wooded chock to protect the axle, a hammer, and used my shoes to take the shock off of the bearings like this.  Bang bang with the hammer and doinge it came off with no damage to the bearings.  If you have to hit harder enough to kill a medium sized animal Id say gets it pressed off at the shops and I did all my work on a cushy lounge so the parts landed on pillows ...








Here we have the rotor.  With all the problems Ive had I rather think the quality of both hub and rotor is top notch, strong and built to last, its just those damed wires.  Hey be sure to leave enough of the ends of all wires with the colour insulator so you know which one goes where..








To save money and a trip to town, I decided to use and extention lead rated at 10 amps.  My controllers is rated at 30 amps and I think 3 X 10 amps should be fine.










The wire core I'm using are some thicker than the one supplied with the motor. and the insulation is decent so I think things will only improve.







There is no reason metal should cut the rubber, well no more than the sharp copper inside cuts the insulator when the wires are munged..  So before I thread the wire I will file and sand the axle.  When the bike fell the axle ends up with sharp bits of extruding metal.  With a file and small piece of sand medium paper rolled into a flute I work away the sharp edges.









I used my tounge to find any sharp edges. Here is the result after a good polish with steal wool and I found it best to round it from the centre towards the outside and leave the outside of the axle square a little to add more surface area where it is most needed...










TFeeding the wires was difficult thank god I rounded the wire hole out properly.  The sensor wire I see as an issue without insulation so I Twist them tuff alrighty and heat shinked insulator around them.  Twisting takes more room up than just shielding them but its stonger...

I pulled the power wires as far as they could come out from the centre hole and pushing and feeding the insulated sensor array through the centre to the outer axle hole. I used the three power wires to assist the sensor array and got the job done, I will use PVC to protect the wires when im finished.






Now I'm not one who usually needs to test my workmanship nor is my experience with materials imature but here goes with the 5 lb hammer test just for you..  I hit it quite hard 4 times and I was scared that I'd have to do all this again, it was worth the risk...








OUCH..
10 X stronger and resistant to brusing.
In another test I put all my weight onto the PVC wires and held my self off the ground.. Not 100% but none the less, "an improvment".  I noticed a lil brusing on only one wire..







Soldering the power wires was a lil harder than expected as there was a bit of tarnish to eat through if you got some flux tinkture paint it on before you solder.  I cut the old wires and left the bit on as I didnt want to shorten the coil connnections, Blue and green reamin the same, brown replaces yellow... 

I think this connection every bit as important as the battery connection so I did big solder joints and chased all of the air out of the connections and left plenty of clearance from the hub housing, the rotor chasis and each other by turning them sidewards away from each other. A little bit more weight on one side, but we can balance the wheel with a spoke attatched reflector when it's finished.  I didnt want to fool around using heat shrink insulator as this place may get a little hot






Ok day 2 and im up at 5am.  This would of taken me a a couple hours normaly as this thread is more work than the repair job :|.  Its all good as I want to do this the best I can.  Doing this thread is a great way to evaluate the my concepts.

Just joined the sensor array today not shabby, it was a little fiddley....







So lets us put this wheel back together.






Ive almost finished my only flaw is I didnt mark which way the wheel went and I will add that at the begining of this journey come tutorial.  I'm happy to say this turned out OK because "I know which way I put a tire on".  The correct way!  If you look at most tyres you will notice that the tread is designed to defeat wind resistance and best drainage in the wet, so remembering which way the rotor goes in wasnt an issue. Many people don't even look at which way a tyre goes on...  But its logged now.






Im sure I'll have to do a sensor test!

Ive seen the sensor replacement tutorials and I know Im gunna have to do it.  I reckon I can replace them without removing the sensor assembly easy as.  My concept behind this is that once soldered I generaly don't like removing stuff from PCB's unless needed. If you can solder a part onto the old legs you give your PCB more shelf life.
If you stuff up its just a cheap sensor and not the board.

[Nicobie]

 

<I used my tounge to find any sharp edges....>

Hahahahahahaa

I guess I'm not that dedicated     

[Leslie]

Do you think I could get away with slamin that 4 lbs hammer on that axle if there was a single fleck of steal out to cut up the hard work I've done here.



The damed work is dedicated the tongue part took 5 seconds.

Peace out man!

[svalie]

Wow, thank you so much for this comprehensive and illuminating answere. You are very kind. In your text there is a warning saying  "don't test the hub or controller until your wires are fixed..". I did that the other day unfortunately. I tried to put together the wires with solder and then I tested if it had worked. The wheel turned a little bit. There was some strange sounds and then nothing more. Am I totally lost then? Is it possible that the controler becamne damaged as well?

Thank you

[Leslie]

Wow, thank you so much for this comprehensive and illuminating answere. You are very kind. In your text there is a warning saying  "don't test the hub or controller until your wires are fixed..". I did that the other day unfortunately. I tried to put together the wires with solder and then I tested if it had worked. The wheel turned a little bit. There was some strange sounds and then nothing more. Am I totally lost then? Is it possible that the controler becamne damaged as well?

Thank you

Do you have a fuse?

Sounds a little like mine did when I did exactly this.  The bike fell over and I didnt look to see the damage.  It so sad when all this happens really.  Ive lost two controllers one when it fell over and another when I foolishly draged the regen disabler pin over a terminal..

All you can do is fix the hub hall sensors and wires hook it up and hope for the best.  That hub works fine now, with a new controller.  :|

Pleae let us know how you do with the repair job Id be very keen to find out how you go getting a new sensor board even more interested in seeing if you decide to make your own.

See what improvements  you can make on the original.

Try enjoy this as I do, because it can be an opportunity to build it better bike.

Happy tinkering keep us informed please..

[PaintingLoft.com]

this is my first problem so I am a total newbie.  My hub motor is a mess right now so I opened it up and saw a spot that had a spot of solder on it that I wasn't sure should be there.  is this blocking the axle from spinning?  thanks anybody that can help!!

this take you to my site that I wrote comments on the image.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3148/2939057991_cc330d4c0e_s.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2939913950_bc02bbdd20_s.jpg