Yeah sounds like youve checked all the boxes. The shorter windings on the Mini do have lower resistance so it will pull more current at the higher voltage.
Just wondering the if there would be much difference between the efficiencies of switching lossed via fet/software current control v resistive shunt control methods.
Using dual Mini motors-controllers would be good at reducing any voltage drop over the standard controller shunts but puts more load onto the low resistance of the pack, This senario looks sunny for you..
I saw Gary's CA measure up to 7 watts idle running expense with dual controllers over two days this adds up to 338 watts. As you know a 12ah 48v pack contains 600 watts. I make sure I turn the bugger off and charge after a long ride..
I disconnected all the leds at one stage and got a reading of 1.2 watts, but my whole shebang turns on at one switch right now, call me lazy, but only having to replace a single switch, both my led night lights and motor is running about 7 idle watts now with no LVC. If I leave my bike switched on by accident I have 750 watts to waste, In 4.4 days my pack's from full to flat.
If not for your reading experience for someone else here MrWho. I always need to mention these little watts that have caught a few people out that only use their bike over week ends.
I have seen the problem with LVC not working well at very low discharge rates failing to trigger .. My ex
BMS shuted down at 48v assuming my pack wont go much over 30 amps 2c before pouches start to give up the ghost, my voltage drops at my packs terminals to 49v on my heaviest loads, this is safe. Buying the bigger AH is essential for a reliable
BMS regime IMO on the performance configurations. Testing your voltage sag is an easy way to test your cell's health. I remember the old GM packs were rated well over my pouch Lifepo4's.
Maybe it is whether a the
BMS engineer considers flat and dead part of the AH or the
BMS shut down the end of a packs AH max discharge rating. I think some of the designers look at the cells manufacture LV floor rather than the real world beating a cell endures, in order to give us every bit of juice we pay for. A noble gesture that only gets us a little bit further up the road.
Lifepo4 pack that see's 3v as an honest LVC point is the sure good. Because under or closer to the LV floor of the cell, you don't get much aH for your voltages as the on load sag increase over the ride. If we need those extra few Km's IMO is worth adding a little more lithium in order to have your safest
BMS voltage LVC regime, just a bit higher than the cell manufacture recommendation and absloutes.
