Parts or dimension needed

[Leslie]

Give that drop in the bucket thing a rest it is just a convenient rationalization for a total absence of customer service and no quality control. It is true of the Chinese hub market in general only. Please no one look behind the curtain at the mighty OZ I mean Phil.

There's nothing wrong with shaking the odd tree to see what falls out of it..    However.  I bought golden motors gear from a Australian retailer.  EV power Australia

1: I got very good help from Ev Power Australia Rod Dykes.
2: I'm sure he would measure up a hub for his customer to save us both $200 in shipping costs.
3: He does return items based on mutal trust and I get them in the mail 2-3 working days.
4: I can call my retailer anytime during office hours for help or advice, He even was a good shoulder when it all went to the dogs one day.

Now does this make any sense.  Anyone that thinks you should buy direct from a factory imo adds risk...

Find a good site or forums get, chatting to some good honest people, find out a good retailer that tests the gear before they ship it...

I rang 5 places up before I decided to pick my retailer.

[Nicobie]

I rang 5 places up before I decided to pick my retailer.
[/quote]

Good idea!

Too bad it is not relevant for US customers. Here there is only a un-caring distributer in Oakland, CA who has only taken my money and never replied to my questions.


eMail: gm@perfecteam.net


Perfecteam
5969 Shattuck Ave.
Oakland, Ca 94609-1434
Tel/Fax: 510-655-1069
eMail: gm@perfecteam.net

[Nicobie]

Feel free to send questions.......

[biohazardman]

hi Chris, I'm sorry the info you need is trickling so slowly if at all. but I can say your opinion on GM is very sensible and hasn't been tossed around here before. the "orthodox" view simply doesn't match the facts as I see them and so I distrust that view; yours seem more realistic.

> GM has a fairly good sized factory in China and we are but a half drop of water in their large production bucket.

bio-h, these two ideas have been repeated here over and over but I'm yet to see a shred of evidence; please direct me to it if you know where to find it. (not rhetoric, it's an honest request.)

btw bio-h, could you tell me what type are those two controllers that failed on you?

OOPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! power outage and I lost this whole message.  It's a bit shorter now but that's how the cookie crumbles.

The two controllers were the GM regens in 36 and 48v. I am not quite ready to blame them yet as I have an old 36v throttle and lots of miles on the motor.  Will need to check into these first to be sure.
As far as the size of the GM business it really makes no difference to me.  They exist and I bought my motor kit from them. China is a long way off and trying to prove anything from this far off is difficult to say the least. It's like trying to prove the Bible is true one can translate it many ways and accept or deny the results as one wishes.
A bad motor, battery ect. will not have much of an affect in my life as I choose not to allow it to be so. I have more pressing things to concern myself with like how to get a new roof, the house painted the car fixed and the lawn mowed as I am no longer able to do any of these things. Being pretty much disabled these days changes a few things and is the reason I built the bike.  Now I can get out and pass up the spandex kings for fun and we all need to have a little fun now and then.  ;^) Makes me look healthy anyway as long as I pedal every now and then.  ;^)

[Lanchon]

thanks, please tell us what you find out.

> I am not quite ready to blame them yet as I have an old 36v throttle

if you doubt the throttle you can use a 1K to 22K potentiometer for testing. connect the two external pins of the pot to ground and +5V lines from the throttle connector, and the center tap to the throttle input line. add a 1K to 10k resistor between the center tap and the throttle input for added safety. be sure the pot is turned all the way towards the ground side (check zero ohms with multimeter) before turning on the power.

[Leslie]

if you doubt the throttle you can use a 1K to 22K potentiometer for testing. connect the two external pins of the pot to ground and +5V lines from the throttle connector, and the center tap to the throttle input line. add a 1K to 10k resistor between the center tap and the throttle input for added safety. be sure the pot is turned all the way towards the ground side (check zero ohms with multimeter) before turning on the power.

Yes this is that place I bothered joining.


Too right! and the above test works a charm.

To add some shine to the above post.



It's is the same job as the hall sensors inside the hub.

Here is the circuit diagram of a hall sensor test.


oh by the way
BIO has that controller got those componants heat shrinked in black on the other side.  If so it might be a bit like the charger I fixed, test those .1k ohm 3 watt resistor and the big diodes...

[Leslie]

Can the OP post a pic of the part (bush) with a big red arrow pointing at it so I measure the right bit and get it right the first time .
Im going into the bike shop tomorrow to look at how things are going,  Im pretty sure nothing has happened.  An im going to have to rim this hub by myself.

I don't have a vernia caliper or a micrometer but I'll do something either in 12 hours from now or 24, depending on whether he can get this 700cc rim on my hub.

[Lanchon]

> if you doubt the throttle...

I was referring to how to work the controller without a functioning throttle. of course you should test the throttle first. you can just hook up a 3V~5V source (such as the controller itself) and measure the output (with no pull-up resistor; this is an analog hall).

[Leslie]

Eeek I floated through your post and assumed the throttle test was what you were saying, where opposites meet, the end never defeats the means and the tree does make a sound when it falls.

(with no pull-up resistor; this is an analog hall).

I was pondering about the analogueness of this circuit and yet again Lanchon you help place yet another piece of that puzzle firmly in place...

[biohazardman]

Yes it has the diode and resister with heat shrink on the other side.   Marked components have continuity in both directions. Appreciate the help from all of you that's what is great about this forum.  Things getting done a bit slower than I would like so may be a a day or two before I get to all of this troubleshooting.

[Leslie]

Marked components have continuity in both directions. Appreciate 

Diodes should only allow current in one direction And block in the other. and you should get a .5 volt drop though th diode alone, comtinuity is not enough to test those resistors too, test the ohm set on your multimeter set at 200 ohm setting and you should read .1ohm if you get nothing its gone.

[biohazardman]

Yup you are correct but that is best measured when they are not in the circuit as the other stuff in there could be giving me grief.

[Leslie]

Yup you are correct but that is best measured when they are not in the circuit as the other stuff in there could be giving me grief.

Yes cut them off and don't solder them off stay clear of the pcb, and use some nice wire to replace them.

[biohazardman]

Have a really good solder station at werq and lots of electronic tools also so will wait till tomorrow and take the broken things with me.  There are a couple of very well educated electronics guys there that can help too if I give them a hard enough time.  ;^) Hey I am a full member now but you have more posts than me so looks like I will have to post a bunch of useless information to catch up? ;^) Justin rode through the remnants of a hurricane and is almost at the end of his cross Canada ride on the ES forum.  What a great thing to have under your belt.  Guess he had some of the same problems along the way as me as of late controllers and broken spokes.  Go figure.
OOPS!!! I fergot I have an extra e-crazyman 72v controller just sitting the there cuz I bought the wrong one the first time.  Wonder if I can change a few things and run it on 48v?  Just a thought.

[Leslie]

Replacing these if you find will prolly not fix the board.  Sorry it was 230:am I didnt think the circuit out much and this is where Lanchon's guidance may benefit us all a little.

I gather These are protection components that stop the motor frying the fets and if one or two they are gone remember the fets they came off of as this may give you more of a clue as to which ones are blown.

Lowest wattage iron you can get your hands on 10/15 watts should be fine.  Make sure you have a nice smooth pointed iron with well tinned surface before you go near that board.  Use a solder sucker or some copper braid or twist and flaten some copper and draw it across the surface of the solder contacts as you remove the solder. I would probaby use a solder sucker.

Remember the longer you have the iron on the PCB the more of chance you will have catastrophic failure.