GM controller showroom

[Lanchon]

hi all,

in order to better be able to answer questions about controller mods and add-ons, and to help us know what we are going to get when we order controllers, I think it would be good to have a showroom of all GM controllers, past and present. if you have any info about different revisions of controllers, that would also be welcome.

thanks!

(please only post controller descriptions in this topic.)

[Lanchon]

I'll start with mine. it's a 36V non-regen controller bought on Dec-2006. back then GM's website showed this controller as the only available option. the case is the non-anodized aluminum type shown on the website. it's based on a PIC16F72 running at 5V. it's capable of 48V operation if you mod the gate (15V) and logic (5V) combined supply (and adjust the cutoff divider, of course).

photos next...

[Lanchon]

front 1

[Lanchon]

front 2

[Lanchon]

and back

[redbike]

I don't know the nuts and guts of the circuits but this one was purchased August 2008. It looks the same as the one above.

[redbike]

front again

[redbike]

I think it is dead but I don't know how to test it as well as not having a circuit diagram and description. I saw a controller tester on a web site and was wondering if it was worth getting.

[Lanchon]

thanks redbike! I thought the current controllers were absolutely different (can't remember where I got that idea) but it seems the 36Vs haven't changed a bit. at <$40 a piece I don't think it makes any sense to try and debug it, but if it were mine I'd give it a try anyway; it's in my nature.

of course your detailed description of the problem ("I think it is dead") has helped us a lot, and though we've almost cracked the problem already -assuming there is one-, we'd sure benefit from a few extra details. seriously, please post a description if you like, maybe someone can help. (in that case may I ask that you start a new thread?) thanks again!

[robertozm]

Hello , I hope someone can help me.
I bought my kit in May 2008, I was a 36volt Regen controller and unfortunatly, doing some "improvements" I have pull to much of one cable and I don´t know were it should be placed.  Does any body know were does the "Brake" cables goes???

Herewith you can see a picture of my controller, that is completely different of the ones you have shown previously,  Does anyone have one like mine? or does anyone have a clue where should I solder the missing cable?

[Lanchon]

hi Roberto

> a picture of my controller, that is completely different of the ones you have shown previously

because yours is the regen type.

> does anyone have a clue where should I solder the missing cable?

you should be able to find the end of the wire still soldered, and that should sort of tell you. I think I've seen pics of this controller before in this forum, maybe you can find one where you see the wire attached.

I'm afraid I can't see clearly enough to understand. if you can't find any pics, you could do this. get the attached wires.jpg and tell me what each numbered wire in the pic is; maybe I can understand better with that info.

let me also ask you a favor. get the other two files and tell me what those 3 numbered components are, I mean the writing on them. if you can't read them, a cotton swab with bathroom alcohol should clear the solder flux (which is somewhat corrosive and shouldn't be there). (also please check that of the 12 FETs those that are easily visible are all the same part (marked as component #2)).

por casualidad estás en Buenos Aires? si es así pasame tu tel.

abrazo!

[robertozm]

hi Roberto

> a picture of my controller, that is completely different of the ones you have shown previously

because yours is the regen type.

> does anyone have a clue where should I solder the missing cable?

you should be able to find the end of the wire still soldered, and that should sort of tell you. I think I've seen pics of this controller before in this forum, maybe you can find one where you see the wire attached.

I'm afraid I can't see clearly enough to understand. if you can't find any pics, you could do this. get the attached wires.jpg and tell me what each numbered wire in the pic is; maybe I can understand better with that info.

let me also ask you a favor. get the other two files and tell me what those 3 numbered components are, I mean the writing on them. if you can't read them, a cotton swab with bathroom alcohol should clear the solder flux (which is somewhat corrosive and shouldn't be there). (also please check that of the 12 FETs those that are easily visible are all the same part (marked as component #2)).

por casualidad estás en Buenos Aires? si es así pasame tu tel.

abrazo!

Español:
Hola Lanchon, Lo siento pero no estoy en America.  Soy de Sevilla, España.
Espero darte la información necesaria:
El cable 1 y 2 (azul, rojo) son el positivo y negativo de un Led rojo que me indica que el controlador esta conectado a corriente. (estos los he soldado yo, despues de cortar las patas del Led)
Cable 3 y 4 (verde y negro)para las manetas de freno, el nº 3 es el que se arrancó y creo que va soldado junto al nº4 en el circulo pintado de rojo
Cable 5 y 11 (negro y morado) para detectar la fase del motor  (phase-jumper.)
Cable 6, 7 & 9  (negro, verde, y rojo) son el acelerador. 
Y paralelos y en el mismo orden
Cable, 10, 10´-no se ve-, y 10´´-no se ve- (negro, verde y rojo) son para el Pedelec
Cable 12 y 13 (Azul, Azul) lo tengo con un interruptor para habilitar o deshabilitar la funcion Regeneradora.
Cable 14, 15, 16, 17, y 18-no se ve- ( rojo, amarillo, azul, verde, y negro) son los que van al motor.
Cable 19 y 20 (negro, rojo) van a la batería.
Cable 21 y 22 (negro y rojo) van al indicador de bateria
Cable 23, 24, 25 (amarillo, verde, azul) alimentan el motor.

Con respecto a los componentes el
nº 1 puedo leer AT MEGA 16, 16a 07235
nº 2 son 12 uds Ir2807, 724P, 6y, 2W
nº 3 son 6 uds i5ke62a

Espero darte suficientes datos.

Tambien aprovecho para preguntarte:
A)- ¿sabes por qué el componente nº 50 y 51 se calientan muy rapidamente y hasta quemar si se toca el 51 con la yema del dedo.?
B)- Que pasa si los cables del motor 23, 24, y 25 no son conectados con su correspondientes del motor?  quiero decir si por ejemplo:  controlador/Motor:  (amarillo-Verde, verde-Azul, azul-Amarillo) o (amarillo-Azul, verde-Amarillo, azul-Verde) o (amarillo-Amarillo, verde-Azul,  azul-Verde) etc.  Porque he cambiado los hilos del motor por otros mas gruesos pero olvide donde solde los nuevos y no recuerdo el orden?

Todo lo alimento con una bateria de 36 volt, 15 amp LiFePO4

Gracias
Roberto

[robertozm]

Español:
Hola Lanchon, Lo siento pero no estoy en America.  Soy de Sevilla, España.
Espero darte la información necesaria:
El cable 1 y 2 (azul, rojo) son el positivo y negativo de un Led rojo que me indica que el controlador esta conectado a corriente. (estos los he soldado yo, despues de cortar las patas del Led)
Cable 3 y 4 (verde y negro)para las manetas de freno, el nº 3 es el que se arrancó y creo que va soldado junto al nº4 en el circulo pintado de rojo
Cable 5 y 11 (negro y morado) para detectar la fase del motor  (phase-jumper.)
Cable 6, 7 & 9  (negro, verde, y rojo) son el acelerador. 
Y paralelos y en el mismo orden
Cable, 10, 10´-no se ve-, y 10´´-no se ve- (negro, verde y rojo) son para el Pedelec
Cable 12 y 13 (Azul, Azul) lo tengo con un interruptor para habilitar o deshabilitar la funcion Regeneradora.
Cable 14, 15, 16, 17, y 18-no se ve- ( rojo, amarillo, azul, verde, y negro) son los que van al motor.
Cable 19 y 20 (negro, rojo) van a la batería.
Cable 21 y 22 (negro y rojo) van al indicador de bateria
Cable 23, 24, 25 (amarillo, verde, azul) alimentan el motor.

Con respecto a los componentes el
nº 1 puedo leer AT MEGA 16, 16a 07235
nº 2 son 12 uds Ir2807, 724P, 6y, 2W
nº 3 son 6 uds i5ke62a

Espero darte suficientes datos.

Tambien aprovecho para preguntarte:
A)- ¿sabes por qué el componente nº 50 y 51 se calientan muy rapidamente y hasta quemar si se toca el 51 con la yema del dedo.?
B)- Que pasa si los cables del motor 23, 24, y 25 no son conectados con su correspondientes del motor?  quiero decir si por ejemplo:  controlador/Motor:  (amarillo-Verde, verde-Azul, azul-Amarillo) o (amarillo-Azul, verde-Amarillo, azul-Verde) o (amarillo-Amarillo, verde-Azul,  azul-Verde) etc.  Porque he cambiado los hilos del motor por otros mas gruesos pero olvide donde solde los nuevos y no recuerdo el orden?

Todo lo alimento con una bateria de 36 volt, 15 amp LiFePO4

Gracias
Roberto

In English:
Hi Lanchon, I am from Sevilla, Spain.
I hope I will give you the necessary information.

Cables #1 &2 (blue, red) are solder it to a red Led that tell me when the controller is conected to the battery.  Firstly I had to cut the legs of the Led and solder to a 15cm of cable.
Cables #3&4 (green and Black) are for the brake levers.  #3 is the one I ripped of by accident and I think goes solder it next to #4 (inside red circle and small arrow)
Cables #5 &11 (black and violet) phase detector jumper.
Cables #6, 7, &9 (Black, green, & red) for the throttle.
Parallel to an in the same order (some of them are not visible in the picture)
Cables #10, 10´,& 10´´ (black, green, & red) for the Pedelec sensor.
Cables #12 & 13( Blue, Blue) with a swicht at the end, to able/unable regen function.
Cables #14, 15, 16, 17, & 18(not seen)(red, yellow, blue, green, & black) to the motor.
Cables # 19 & 20 (black, red 4 mm2) to the battery
Cables # 21 & 22 (black, red 0.3mm2) to the battery level indicator.
Cables # 23, 24 & 25 (yellow, green, blue 4 mm2) feeds the motor.

Answering about the components:
#1 a can read "AT MEGA 16; 16a  07235
#2 are 12 units of "  Ir2807  724P; 6y   2W
#3 are 6 units of "  I5KE62A

And I hope you can help me with:
A)-¿Do you know why component # 50 and 51 heat up so quickly and even you can burn your fingertips if you touch #51???
b)- ¿What happens if # 23, 24, and 25 are not conected to the partners in the motor in pair, a mean, for example: controller/Motor: (yellow/Green, green/Blue, blue/Yellow) or (yellow/Blue, green/Yellow, blue/Green), or (yellow/Yeklow, green/Blue, blue/Green) etc....  Because I have change the bearings and change wires for thicker ones but don´t know which one was anyone and were they were???

I feed everything with a battery of 36volt, 15 amp, LiFePO4
Thanks
Roberto

[Lanchon]

hi, a pity you're in Spain, I would have liked to see you bike. thanks for the info, I couldn't make sense of all the wires in that corner cause you'd added a couple (the rest I knew what they were). well I'm very sorry, I really can't tell you anything useful, the pic you sent is too low res and I can't make out the circuit. have you had any luck finding a pic of that open controller in the forum?

A) component 50 must be a relay. couldn't find the datasheet but see this:
http://www.megatonecorp.com/product_doc/pdf/731.pdf
apparently it's a single-pole double-throw, 24VDC coil, USA footprint. I suppose it disconnects the battery from the positive bus of the FET bridge. I didn't expect to find a relay, I can only think of one reason for putting it there, comments to the effect welcome. the coil should burn 1 to 2 watts so it should be warm. since it's a 24V coil, designers probably use resistor 51 in series to drop around 12V. that resistor should burn half what the coil burns, which is a lot for a resistor, an it might burn your finger if you touch it.

B) normally it'd screw things up, but I *think* your controller learns the sequence. retrain it and see. if you can't make it go forward but can train it to go backwards, simply switch 2 of the 3 power wires and retrain.

thanks for the info on the components. does the big roach say "ATmega16" and a space after that or does it say "ATmega16xxx" (xxx being more letters or numbers)?

thanks!

[robertozm]

hi, a pity you're in Spain, I would have liked to see you bike. thanks for the info, I couldn't make sense of all the wires in that corner cause you'd added a couple (the rest I knew what they were). well I'm very sorry, I really can't tell you anything useful, the pic you sent is too low res and I can't make out the circuit. have you had any luck finding a pic of that open controller in the forum?

A) component 50 must be a relay. couldn't find the datasheet but see this:
http://www.megatonecorp.com/product_doc/pdf/731.pdf
apparently it's a single-pole double-throw, 24VDC coil, USA footprint. I suppose it disconnects the battery from the positive bus of the FET bridge. I didn't expect to find a relay, I can only think of one reason for putting it there, comments to the effect welcome. the coil should burn 1 to 2 watts so it should be warm. since it's a 24V coil, designers probably use resistor 51 in series to drop around 12V. that resistor should burn half what the coil burns, which is a lot for a resistor, an it might burn your finger if you touch it.

B) normally it'd screw things up, but I *think* your controller learns the sequence. retrain it and see. if you can't make it go forward but can train it to go backwards, simply switch 2 of the 3 power wires and retrain.

thanks for the info on the components. does the big roach say "ATmega16" and a space after that or does it say "ATmega16xxx" (xxx being more letters or numbers)?

thanks!

Hi Lanchon:

You can read on one line, AT MEGA 16, y en la siguiente linea, 16a07235.


Thanks for your time, but your answer bring me two new ones, I hope you have the spare to help me ??

A)  To my low electrical knowledge, heat means not very good efficiency therefore, can I change something or add something to inprove efficiency, consumtion, etc ??

B)With the bike upward, and the battery in a table nearby I have conected the controller and the motor and did the phase detection with the phase jumper,etc...   I found one position, that dr Brain showed 38.8volt, 16.8amps, and a top speed on 71 km/h (a knew that was wrong because the position of the podometer, I suppose 1/3 less will be more accurate 48-45 km/h...)  Sometimes when I  throotle up slowly the wheel start little bit bacwards and then start forward, and always the motor heats up a lot.  I haven´t tried "on load" yet because I have the controller over the surgeon table.  The other position I have found with the phase jumper detection, is one that Dr. Brain says, 18 Volt, 7/9amp, 22Km/h.  Is a little bit noisy, and slow, but seem to have lots of torque.  Again I can try on the road  yet because the controller.