Problems with Magic Pie: throttling, braking, cruise control.

[Mat]

Hi , I think you are right it would make sense

How can I check the hall sensor and fix it?

Best regards,

Matthieu

[MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER]

You can disconnect the hall sensors connector at the controller.
If the motor runs good then you know.....

[Mat]

OK I will try, can you jst show me on a photo where they are located, I looked at an old controller and cannot see them

thanks in advance

[Bikemad]

The hall sensors are hiding inside the motor but they connect to the controller via this six pin block connector:



It would be worth checking that the five crimped sockets on the hall sensor leads are fully inserted into the connector block as shown in the above picture, and then make sure the connector is clicked properly into the socket on the controller.

I have never tried running an MPIII with the sensors disconnected, so I don't know whether the MPIII controller supports sensorless operation or not.

Perhaps if someone has already tried it they can confirm whether it works sensorless or not.

Alan
 

[Mat]

Knowing that by sending me another MP3 controller it won't solve he problem (it was like that on my previous wheel...) I bought the external controller to give it a last chance before sending it to the bin and buying a European or US technology tested by the company and not by the customers as it looks like normal to them.
This is amazing they could become very rich but testing isn't part of their quality system, I am sure they don't know the definition of the word quality.

So after receiving the external controller, I checked the cables and guess what, the cable to link the engine is missing, sounds normal knowing them...

[Mat]

Hi Bikemad,

I have finally managed to rebuild the bike with a GM external controller, At the beginning of my first ride it was fine, but towards the ed (8km) when I started to go downhill with a regenerative brake at 20% it started to beep.
For me it is like 2 beeps or 1 beep, I thought it overheated but during my journey back this evening it started to beep after 5meters
By browsing the forum I found this:
1 beep: Confirmation of anti-theft alarm activation or selection of pedelec mode
2 beeps: Motor hall sensor fault (or confirmation during motor phase calibration)
3 beeps: Throttle fault
4 beeps: Power breaking switch faulty or wires short circuited.

So how do I deactivate the alarm? any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Mat

[Bikemad]

Hi Mat,

The alarm function only works with the earlier external controllers and enabling its operation involved modifying the standard wiring to include a separate switch on the thin wire which loops out of the battery + connection on the controller, but if your controller is less than 18 months old it is unlikely to have an alarm function anyway.

It might be worth re-checking the connections on the controller and motor, and also the main power connectors on the battery to see if there is any sign of an intermittent connection (which might be the cause of the beeping) when the wires are moved.

If it was 2 beeps indicating a hall sensor problem, the throttle would not respond while the bike is stationary and the wheel would need to be turning before the throttle would respond.

Alan
 

[Mat]

Hi Alan,

I checked again today and it is 2 beeps, I need to pedal a bit to star he engine, is it OK if I continue like this or are there risks involved?

Best regards,

Mat

[Bikemad]

Mat, running in sensorless mode should not cause any problems whatsoever, but it does make pulling away on steep hills a bit more difficult as you cannot simply pull away from a standstill with motor assistance.

I ran mine in sensorless mode for several weeks until I finally got around to replacing the blown hall sensors. Although I found it to be marginally noisier than running in sensor controlled mode, it still ran smoothly all the way to maximum speed once it had started running.

Your problem could be caused by one or more failed hall sensors, or a poor connection on the hall sensor wiring.
The external connections should be easy enough to check, but the internal ones will obviously involve removing and dismantling the wheel again.

Alan