Author Topic: Possible bad battery key/lock??? (update to throttle indicator problem)  (Read 3499 times)

Offline Supatrike

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Hi All,

I wrote a few weeks back about how my throttle indicator only showed "Empty" and that my 36V battery was only putting out 29V. (I started a new topic as the problem is now slightly different, and the other discussion digressed from the original topic).

UPDATE

Inexplicably my battery is now intermittently putting out 40V - however, the key to the battery is VERY temperamental and often doesn't work at all!!!   Perhaps this is why it previously only put out 29V.

Additionally, the throttle indicator still says "Empty"  (even when I measure 40V).

Goldenmotor China has NOT responded to my questions (going on week 3).

So here's my new inquisition:

1) Is there anything I should know about possible defective battery key systems?
2) Why would the indicator still be saying Empty?
3) I have not hooked up the cruise/horn  controller  - is that a big deal?
4) The battery has a "tear invalid" sticker on it, but if Goldenmotor won't even return my emails, what good is a warranty anyway?

I'm a college prof. and there are quite a few students interested in how my project turns out.  I'd love to have good things to say about GM, but I'm losing patience.  This forum, and all you who have been so helpful are the only bright spot - thanks for that.

I dropped a lot of cash on this motor and have so far only gone 5 miles.

Your help is appreciated.




Offline SydneyCommuter

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My PI  36v battery had same intermittent fault.
So bypassed the switch put in a simple toggle switch on the other side.
Agree the warrantee, but I'm hardly going to send my battery back to china for that.
The front plug did always read the correct 40v btw.
It seems to work flaulessly since I bypassed the switch.

Offline Cornelius

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I think you're on the right track, suspecting the key switch. Due to some capacitors inside the controller, there's a big spark over the contact points inside the key switch each time you turn it on, and that can only leave some residue over time, making poor contact...

It's up to you, but I wouldn't worry about warranty by opening that end cap and either try to clean the key switch contacts with a contact cleaning spray of some sort, or bypass it entirely.

If you have the external controller, you could resolder your wires so that the main power cables from the battery goes directly to the plug inside the end-cap, and add a third, thinner control wire from the positive on the battery, via the key switch, to the thinner red wire (the Control-on/off wire) that are connected together with the thick positive wire to the controller...
This way, the controller will always have main power, and you'll avoid that spark each time you turn on the key switch. (Also, this will also enable the use of the anti-theft function. ;) )

Edit:
I also had similar problems that I tracked down to my key switch; I measured around 40V, but the fuel gauge showed nothing... Wiggling the key switch on and of, made it work intermittently...
« Last Edit: May 27, 2011, 08:37:10 AM by Cornelius »

Offline SydneyCommuter

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Cornelius

Thank for that, unfortunately (well sort of) I have the new pie with the internal controller so the control wire is not an option unless I get very savy on the wiring but I'd rather not change anything further.
My only remaining issue is to get my pie contoller off the default settings but I am having the control s/w comms issues described elsewere in the forum  \
Cheers