My euro regs standard dual pie rewire......

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey gingey

Maybe this can help, its a 48v LED light circuit off a ebike kit.

I just followed the traces on the PCB and made my own 9xUV one for a little project box im making.

I tested it on 55v for half hour and the resistor was still just hot enough to touch. I didn't test the current but I assume no more than 200mA with the resistor used and the LED's.

Using high brightness LED's this would be a good little circuit for a brake light.

Reason I'm pointing this to you is you can tap off the series of LED's to get an output for your relays (eg. tapping from 4th LED is around 12.6v) - and maybe use a resistor there too (eg. 560-Ohm resistor from 4th LED to 12v relay coil)

When you activate the relay, the LED series you tap from dim with the current being transferred to your load.

So I put a 330-Ohm resistor to a 12v fan and spun it from the 4th LED point and the first 4 LED's went about half brightness and my fan spun about 2000RPM which is plenty to cool something. Anyways could be handy for ya and cheeeeap hehe

I made a bodge paint schematic for you lol


*parts required:

2Kohm 1Watt resistor
IN4104 diode (I guess that's optional but I'd keep it..)
9 x high intensity LED's
Less than 60v supply

[DirtyGinge]

hi monkey

looks sweet,

must admit, I had thought of making a panel for the back activated with a brake type switch, that spelt out F%$ OFF

seriously though, schematics like this are really handy for the new guys, they can get great ideas for modding, learn more etc......many thanks for contributing

must actually get the diagram for the controller wiring done....

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey mate

I'll post my throttle / speed limiter circuit I'm using up tomorrow.

It basically connects like this:

Wheels always have resistor connected to throttle signal wire from 5v presenting 0.8v - you can then add full signal (via a switch) or use a pot to vary the throttle signal to maintain the speed you want.

Anyway I'll make one and post it up for ya if you are still working on it. I'm in the final stages of re-building mine back up. I'll run some numbers first on the current, then I'll consider modding the shunt on the rear wheel to see what action I can get.

I'm now running 2 x 48v12Ah, connected to each wheel, and have the option to parallel the 2 batteries if I choose to add the chain drive motor.

Anyway, the whole reason for this post, is to put you onto this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxLKfAZrhbM

It's a tutorial of voltage dividers you should pickup pretty easy. I found this as I was designing a LCD character screen built into the throttle casing to show both battery voltages

Anyway let us know how you're going, any more pics???

[DirtyGinge]

Hi Monkey

All pics are done, its just getting a spare hour to sit down and type it all out, so all reading can understand.....hopefully this weekend

regards

[Andrew]

I've now seen Ginges' bike and must say that the way he has designed and implemented this limiter and motor control is really innovative.  Big respect from me for the man's dedication.  I can't wait for the Battery build thread  

[DirtyGinge]

lol, andrew posted the above after chugging down litres of the ginge's honey wine....take with a pinch of salt hehehe

Was nice to meet you Andrew, and really nice that you arent an axe murderer also 

Who else is in the UK, we will have to arrange a summer barbeque, drink, food ,more drink then pie drag racing, what can possilbly go wrong heheheh

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey comon' no sidesteppin' away from the topic

Oi so what's this innovative piece of work that's been designed and implemented

I'm still like a week away from getting the monkeymobile back on the road

[DirtyGinge]

Hi Monkey...

ok you got me......

As much as I enjoyed tea ( sh$%"% forgot the biscuits, but fed him sandwiches...kinda makes the grade)
with Andrew, with a massive lecture on the himalayan treck donkey, he is being very very kind with his praise...

There is nothin innovative, but just very very sneaky ways to disguise the pie for what it is, with the appearance of legality for " instant cop pullover" effect......

( hey andrew, don't stop the praise though.........its cool hehehehe, my muddy donkey feels very unloved after this winter...hows the hangover...hey you know mead has  in effect a massively healthy balance of vitamins )

[DirtyGinge]

So moving on, 2 hangovers later

excuse if there are any glaring ommisions / errors in this pic, but it was done whilst drunk

So, throttle control........I need to achieve the following...

1....be able to turn off front wheel ( too wet, icy, need to lose fat, extend range due to too hilly etc)

2....need to enable cycle analyst limiting /disable front pie at the same time ( euro regs, 1 working motor only)

3....easy access wiring

4...be able to change front pie out for normal wheel ( in case too many cops in broad daylight, rear hidden by pannier, such as a police catch a bastard electric biker convention, dressed as mujahideen tribesman, I mean the motor is offensive no ? )

5...disable the "no throttle" emergency mode of cruise control = 50% throttle....just in case they press the button out of curiosity, and I have to surgically remove a gel saddle from my ass

6....disable the throttle ( safety for moving bike through doors( there is history there), and curious kids, in case I need to remove aforementioned saddle from their ass)

All of the above came from the 2000 miles I have just achieved, as experience in what does and doesnt work for me...such as the -12C ice ride this december in the uk, front torque IS NOT a good thing here, (lots of deck hitting)

Now as mentioned before, I appear to be pushing the 5V surface mounted limiter of the rear pie, and may move my relays to NPN transistors when I get time ( thanks guys) but mini mini relays seem to be just the treat at the mo ........"SPDT"

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey anyone jump in and correct me here, but the throttle LED battery guage has both 5v+ and Wheel battery voltage going in there.

I'm testing my own battery guage, and it looks similar to the layout on the standard throttle lights where the battery voltage is used with voltage dividers (resistors) in order to supply a base current for the transistors (that turn the LED's on and off)

The transistors then switch on and off the throttle lights. So correct me if I'm wrong but the throttle LED's actually run from the 5V+ supply NOT battery voltage. And uses the battery voltage as a reference only for the transistor switching. That would be the most efficient anyways.

Having said this, you should already be running only 1 x 5v signal anyway, so now you can utilise your dual drive and source current from the second wheel instead.

So wheel 1 = connected to throttle/ normal 5v+ signal

Wheel 2 = upto around 90mA of current for your circuit switching.

Hope that is a bit of help

[DirtyGinge]

Part of the problem is that in order to be able to remove the front pie at short notice as per the requirements in the project, I cant use the front pie voltage feed at all, as removal of the wheel will render whatever will be based on its voltage will die

Currently all feeds come off the back wheel, but if I need more current, ill have to use a linear regulator to source it from the battery......

[GM Canada]

a very patient wife

You have one of those? That must be awesome!

I'm guessing you don't do you builds in the living room?
Gary

[DirtyGinge]

No, I'm consigned to the cramped office, soldering whilst banging my elbow off doors

Just to clear up the above diagram

The 5V feed comes from the 5v hall sensor feed

then routed through the switch on the thumb throttle....

regards all

[MonkeyMagic]

Hi Ginge

Hey what is the relay coil voltage? Someone jump in here if I'm wrong, but if you are trying to sink a relay current from the hall sensor feed - it is powered by the same voltage regulator anyway.

Not sure if you had a chance to test this? Because I doubt there is enough current unless you choose not to run the throttle battery led's.

I'm having mega weird issues with my setup, today I fired up my front wheel without the 8-pin connector and no beeps!! Plugged in a throttle and shes all good to go, but disconnecting the 8-pin connector still no beeps...

I wanted to do some test circuits but may not need to now lol dunno if the no beeps is good or bad...

Could you post that diagram with how you will connect the coils of the relays? Cheers

[Bikemad]

So correct me if I'm wrong but the throttle LED's actually run from the 5V+ supply NOT battery voltage. And uses the battery voltage as a reference only for the transistor switching. That would be the most efficient anyways.

Monkey, the battery indicator unit appears to be separate from the 5V supply.  I just disconnected the three pin plug from the throttle (removing the 5V supply) and the battery indicator continues to work as normal.

I've noticed that the battery indicator in my 36V throttle unit gets nice and warm when I occasionally run on 51.8V (58.8V fully charged). 

Alan