Controller problems

[Mountain]

Hello
I removed the internal controller and replaced it with the external controller (in summer problems with terperature  and also the regen brake was too strong and it was not programmable (model before March 2010).
The external controller did a good job. The max curret was about 25A, also the regen brake was good.
But I tried  to change the regen brake.
I separated the akku from the controller, connected the USB cable to the controller and changed the value of regen brake.
After change the motor was very weak although the datas stored in the controller (button GetConfig) was  Continuous 25A and Peak 27A, the maximum power consumption was about 10A. Whe I increase the current  Countinous 30A and Peak 50A the max power consumption is only about 15A.

Can someone help me ?

[jensenff]

Hi
Q:  Was this the first time EVER this controller was manipulated with the software?

[Mountain]

Hello Jensenff

Thank you for your reply.
Yes, this was the first time I have   changed  the datas at this controller.
If I use the internal controller outside (with a big heatsink) the motor is very powerfull but this controller ist not
programmalbe (the regen brake is too strong).
The pedelec  plug is not connected to the controller (I tried also with pedelec sensor)  and the reverse switch is not connected to the harness.
The horn does not beep (perhaps no malfutions).
Following datas are adjusted. (but I tried also different other values)
Continous:26A; Peak:27A; MotorType BLDC brushless(MgicPie) Phase 120Grad; PAS: High; Direktion: FWD;
MotorVoltage: 36V; FWD 100%; REV: Disable; Brake: 65%.

Kind regards an thank you

[MonkeyMagic]

Try changing your voltages mate

I assume your wheel was preset at 24V, I've only just found this out now.

48v I can guess my controller draws half the current, but a bit better top speed.
24v the thing absolutely launches !!

Try changing back to 24v?

Cheers

[Mountain]

Hello  MonkeyMagic

I have also tested the 24Volt, but I can see no change.

In a brochure of golden motor  are malfunctions are listed.
For example:
"Throttle malfuctions: Whem the throttle fails to function correctly, the controller will beep three times. In this situation, press and hold the cruise control button to drive your bike at half the maximum speed. The controller will automatically return to its original status when the problem is resolved.
Power-brake lever malfunction: If the power-brakes lever malfuction , twist / press the throttle for at least repeately four times. The controller will then beep four times if this malfunction is detected. Similary, press and hold the cruise control button to drive your bike at half the maximum speed. The controller will automatically return to its original status when the problem is resolved."

I can not hear beeps, and with the old internal controller it works.

I think perhaps there is an error in the controller which starts the malfunction programm. (half speed or about half power or less)
I have programmed the controller with a 2. USB cable and an 2. Computer - without a positiv result.
I have also separatet the controlle completely  from  the harness and akku and programmed  -  no result.

A few days ago, I wrote tom "Tom <zhourenli@goldenmotor.com>" an e-Mail - I hope he has an idea.

Kind regards

[Leslie]

No Toms new email is tom@goldenmotor.com..

Thank you. 

[Spacey]

Same thing happened with mine, it was using about 20 amps on pull away until I used the USB cable to program it. After that all I could get out of the external controller was 15amps, wouldn't make it up my drive.

So.......I modded it with it pulling way over 70amps and wheel spinning everywhere on 48v. Changed to a 40amp external by another company as it was just way too powerful with the modded MP controller and something would have burnt out somewhere, although the batteries could easily take it.

[jensenff]

Then it's two who positively confirm after first time use of USB - programming the controller you get less amps.
There must be some kind of software restriction applied to the controller when using the programmer.
Previously I tried to 'hack' the communication during programming with a usb-listener,  without luck. I gave up , I was not shure if it was a track to follow.  I did it because I thought my 15A restriction might be software - related.  I could not get good comparison, since I had a mix of 24V SLA  / 36V GM battery at first and used USB with this setup.
Again, I feel now more certain it could be some kindof software - restriction we apply when we use the usb - programmer.

[Mountain]

Thank you 317537; Spacey; Jensenff

Now I have again written to Tom and I told him referred to the topic in the forum.
If I receive an answer from him I will tell the information to the forum.

Kind regards Mountain

[Mountain]

Hello

I'm sorry I can not  post any news, have not got information by Tom.

Kind regards

[Spacey]

That's customer service with a smile 

[Mountain]

Hello

I wrote Tom on 9th and 21th of Semptember an e-Mail relating my controller problem.
But so far I have not  received any response.

[Mountain]

So far I have not received response from Tom - I think there is no solution!
I opened  the external controller and made the  shunt thicker. I programmed  8 amps continious and  8 amps max.  The actual power consumption is max.   23 amps. That is fine.  I use 36 Volt, it was also necessary to programm to 24 Volt.
As I was  forced to inform me about controller I found a controller  which can change the braking  effect while driving.
This will be my next projekt

[Mountain]

Up to now I have not received an e-Mail from Tom
I think an e-mail will be  thrown in the trash when there is no solution.

[Leslie]

You may need to do what I did.

Take the old controller remove the shunt and install it with the new controller shunt too.

But beware.  I have found you can get about 10~15 more amps if you dare.  You can just shorten/ thicken the controller shunt with a bit of solder to gain 10 amps.

I could of prolly did 80 max amps through my modded controller until it met a drill bit, but my battery would not do this for a long time.

I must remind you I only rode around on this controller for two days before I ran a drill bit into the PCB.