Author Topic: Testing motor phase wires?  (Read 7471 times)

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Testing motor phase wires?
« on: August 21, 2010, 05:05:59 PM »
G'day

Hey is there a way I can test the motor phase wires in MP?

Testing between GND and each wire I get 3K resistance.

I get continuity between all phase wires. Disconnected from the controller, the controller does not have continuity between the connections, but does with.

It's on my faulty 16" wheel I'm still trying to get going.
Testing more of the board, I only get 1v on the 5v output. Does anyone know where the 5v LVR is?

I can connect to the controller and set the parameters on USB but can't get the motor to work.

On the board the controller chip next to the buzzer (looking at it with the buzzer on the left) I think it's pin 3 that I can read 28v on it. Pin 5? I can read 5.6V with power connected. Haha I wondered if I connected a lead from the 5.6 to my red 5v line I could get a throttle.

No beeps at all from the controller.

Further down the board the part laying down glued next to the left of the biggest cap, I thought was the LVR - if it is, its shorted out or supposed to have continuity running through it?

Also the pins connecting to the board look burnt. This is in the replaced controller that has only had power applied to it. This wheel seems to be killing controllers somehow :(

Offline Spacey

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Re: Testing motor phase wires?
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2010, 05:36:43 PM »
I honestly don't think that this controller can take many amps which is probably why they have restricted it to a owly 15amps!

I know mine get's really really hot when only using 700 Watts with the external controller which is probably why they fail.

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Testing motor phase wires?
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2010, 12:50:23 PM »
Hmm maybe I will summarise my questions in hope for a quick answer :)

1. Does anyone know where the low voltage regulator is on the internal MP controller?

2. Does anyone happen to know if the main controller chip having 28v on a pin is normal??

3. (most im wondering about) - is it normal for the motor phase wires to have continuity between them?
--> If any advice can be given on testing the coils would be great

This will help me to decide to bother getting an external controller or not..

cheers :D

Offline Bikemad

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Re: Testing motor phase wires?
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2010, 02:06:10 PM »
1. Does anyone know where the low voltage regulator is on the internal MP controller?
2. Does anyone happen to know if the main controller chip having 28v on a pin is normal??
3. (most im wondering about) - is it normal for the motor phase wires to have continuity between them?
--> If any advice can be given on testing the coils would be great

I'll have to pass on questions 1 and 2, but question 3 is a bit easier.

You definitely should have continuity between the three phase wires as the are all connected together in a star pattern as shown in blue here:
 


Testing between GND and each wire I get 3K resistance.

You would need to unsolder the winding leads from the controller to get a true measurement between the windings and ground, but as the controller should not be connected to ground via the stator assembly you should be able to easily check with the battery cable disconnected.

There should be no continuity between the windings and chassis ground (axle and stator casting etc.) because they should be completely insulated, but if the 3K resistance you have measured is between the windings and battery ground (black cable), this might be perfectly normal, as you could well be measuring a high resistance to ground through some of the components in the controller itself.

Alan
 
« Last Edit: June 30, 2017, 08:04:03 PM by Bikemad »

Offline MonkeyMagic

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Re: Testing motor phase wires?
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2010, 02:57:44 PM »
Hi Alan

Thanks heaps for that. At least I can sleep easier knowing there is still hope lol
I'm thinking of just getting a cheap ebay controller before forking out for a infineon or such.

Before I do that I'll see if its the LVR thats the issue, because I can still program it through the USB cable.

Would be nicer & neater to have it in the hub casing :)

Cheers again for your help