Who's using PI-200 Controller USB Cable??

[dirk pitt]

It looks like the connection is OK as I have the message "connect success"
also I have the external cruise control button and it is working.
the values of max current in the boxes are both at 1A and this is obviously not what I have in the Pie. ???So I don't understand

[vapid2323]

So you’re saying that you changed the values to 1A for both boxes?

If that’s the case when you click 'Get config' do they change? If it’s not changing, click the 'factory default' option and then 'get config' see if it sets them back to 30A/50A.

I have to be honest; I don’t think you have any issue... All the symptoms you’re giving me are the exact same I get when programming my Pie, the only difference is that you think something is wrong when quite honestly I don’t see an issue.

Try to be more detailed in what you’re doing, for instance:

I click connect > Change the amps to 1 for both boxes > click save/store > then click get config > Nothing Changes

[dirk pitt]

I've got it
In fact, I had the message "connect success" but No real communication, so that I was unable to read the existing values in the Pie by the "get config" button or to store my mods in the Pie. The values I was reading were just the default data file from the programming software.

the reason was that my pie was set-up for Reverse button and so the yellow wire was already used.
I changed the place of the wire and now I can read the values and change them

Thanks

[Leslie]

I don't think GM wants anyone to tx their software, so no data out.  Only change software setting that the programming calls to from another storage memory area more likely or maybe on a different level on the processor.

This software is designed to fetch the low level programming but it is not enabled through this USB cable.

Not sure about all of this but it seems we are uncovering these things slowly.

[sdaniels]

After having my first burned controller replaced and successfully connected it the config software, I´m interessted to know the best and save configuration. Has anyone experience in the best config for the best range for the 48 volt system? What is recommended for peak Amps? Regen brake on 100 is to much. What value do you have?

[Magneto81]

I set my max amps to 11 to set it to 500 watts max. It works perfectly and I get a max speed of 39kph. I'm going to reset it soon so higher amps to see if I get a higher max speed.

Setting it to lower amps is nice because it makes your battery last longer, and I get quite acceptable acceleration despite the low setting.

[Leslie]

I set my max amps to 11 to set it to 500 watts max. It works perfectly and I get a max speed of 39kph. I'm going to reset it soon so higher amps to see if I get a higher max speed.

Setting it to lower amps is nice because it makes your battery last longer, and I get quite acceptable acceleration despite the low setting.

You do realize that the max volts for the  Pie is rated at 60v tops.  This does not mean 5 SLA's it means 60v max.

Meaning if you can isolate the controller from batteries when charging you can get another 6v SLA in there.

Your SLA's fully charged should be around 52v at resting and a 6v SLA no more than 7.5v  The caps are rated at 63v and fets 75v so there is a little head room.  And they do overrate the caps by 5%~10% but don't trust that..

If you rig up a switch so you cant have a charger on and the controller on at the same time the inrush and resistance of the regulators should pull any surface standby charge off and your controller will accept these voltages.  any more than 63v and the controller caps will break down.

You should get another 5~6 kph and about 4 km more range.

If I can get a good look at the circuit I would like to trace a wire I have noticed that is called soft off.  This just may allow a resistor on it and if you replace the 63v caps with 100v caps you can have a much safer overvolt.  After cap mod and soft off mod no more than 70v and maybe a little less.

But alas! These are drastic measures "I" would definitely try, but those who like a "whine" with their Pie and just about everything else stay away from modding.

[Magneto81]

That's a great idea... I wonder if there's something I could put between a 5th SLA and the Pie to ensure it never goes over 60V (or under )

I did some more testing, and against the wind the Pie really is terrible with the 500 watts - or even 650 which is about the highest I ever got. It needs to have way more power for that, and unfortunately the power is very restricted. I expected to see power matching my scooter when it's using 1000 watts because the Pie is supposed to perform like a 1000 watt motor...

For now, I'll just keep on peddling along with it when it's windy. I've noticed ducking really low helps a lot too hehe.

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey magneato

what settings are you running man?

[Magneto81]

I've tried lots of settings - 11A, 12A, 15A, 25A, 30A. I just finished with 12A and put it up to 25A - which runs the same as 30A based on current experience.

[MonkeyMagic]

And the same or different voltage settings??  ie. 24/36/48v

[Magneto81]

I have been using 48V settings the whole time.

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey mate

Change the setting to 24v even if you are running 48v, and then go for a ride, then come back and post what you think

[Leslie]

Hey mate

Change the setting to 24v even if you are running 48v, and then go for a ride, then come back and post what you think

And make sure you keep checking the motor temp after you change the settings each time.  Warm is OK and hot is not.

Look for differences in torque improvements at high RPM too.

I will confer the 24v setting made my MP's function more powerfully.

[MonkeyMagic]

Okay an update here... And thankfully my cable still works!!

I have been toying with port listening and a few bits and pieces trying to decipher the comms. to the controller from the USB cable.

The following has been established:

-Communication is 5v serial to the controller.
-There are 4 wires going from the USB connector to the controller - red, black, yellow and GREEN
-Method is hexadecimal, I can communicate with 9600bps, 8Data bits, No parity and 1 stop bit, no flow control but I am still not 100% if this is the correct throughput values.
-When connecting to the PI-200 software, it pulls TX to gnd, the controller then pulls the cruise control signal high - which feeds back to the USB connector. I think here if that input pin is HIGH it allows the programming, as this happens when the software reads 'connect success'

I'm still not 100% sure of the accurateness of the data, but I'm sure with a bit of practice I can work this out.

Example of connect string:
55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55

Disconnect string:
2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A 2A

Get Config string
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

The attached text file was just some quick notes I made. Top part showing a note from a save file from the PI-200 software (read this with a HEX edit program) then the 'output to controller' part is from listening to a serial port monitor.

LOL also - did you know there is 2 LED's inside the USB connector housing, haha a RED one for power, and a amber one that shows ready status. They should have put a window in that thing!!

From what I can tell, the software sends the data in 3/4 lots
>Current, voltage & regen
>PAS on/off, PAS direction, Reverse on/off, Reverse Immediate/from stop
>Motor type (DC/BLDC) / PHASE, FWD speed, REV speed
>Lastly it looks be part of lot 3 but it seems to be power duty settings


^{TOM -} if you read this can you please confirm how I would program the MagicPie with my own portable microcontroller ?
1. Do I first need to apply 5v to the controller, then bring TX to ground to enable programming?
2. Can you please confirm the baud rate and serial parameters?
3. Is it possible for you to provide an example here? --> Apply 5v to controller, use these settings to communicate, then send this string... ??

The reason I'm doing this is for many reasons, but I can build a graphic touch screen, basically a custom CA that will show everything a CA does but allow me to change settings (legal mode) etc. hehe

We can then make the Pie a snail at the touch of a screen or enable/disable various functions.

I personally want to adjust the current on the fly, so when a big hill approaches I can have a half second delay while the PIE reconfigures to POWER mode, then after the hill I can change back to limit the current etc so its smooth riding

Thoughts anyone? I'm close !!