Regen Controller Fairlure

[robertozm]

Hi everyone!!!
In April I bought a 36volt 500w hub motor and a 36volt15amp LiFePo4 with a regen controller BAC-0200 (the black one), since then I have made a lot of work with the bike,
-I have change the bearings on the hub (I discover the axle is not aeronautical engenierig quality) I did not improve the alignegment but have less rolling resistance and I am sure they will stand a lot of weight.
-I have change the wires comming out of the hub, for a thicker ones.  This was a tough matter, since the hole of the axle don´t give to much room to play.
-I have install three fan 12 volt in series, for the regen controller, 2 takes air in an 1 out.  (when I turned the key on, they start working).
-I have two throttles, one is thumb type, and the other is  twist throttle, I can use either of them.
-I have a cycle analyst.
-I have taken the status led of the controller out in order to see it while in motion.

All of this, is inside a 5mm aluminium box, with multiple circular conectors for the conections coming in/out the box.
The electrical config is:
Battery, 30AmpFuse, (+) Key swich, then controller, aux 36volt outlet, and fan ; (-) controller, aux 36volt outlet, and fan ; all the wires coming out the controller are distributed through the female circular multipole conectors, then male conectors to motor, throttles, cylce analist, Lights and horns (36volt)etc.

Everything work proprely for about on month or so , when suddenly the motor stops, I swicht it off, and when I turn the key the status led of the controller blinks 7 times then pause, then 7 times and so on.  The wheel is very hard when on, and sometimes when I push the throttle goes a little bit forwards and backwards (about 1 cm), and the noise is like something was engaged.

Does anybody knows which is the problem when the status led of the regen controller blinks 7 times???

 I hope everyone have a happy holidays and a great new year!!!!
Thanks
Please help me.

[e-lmer]

There does not seem to be a lot of documentation on the controllers.

Of course it goes without saying that you have checked the
obvious things, but just to be obvious:
   More than 33Volts from the battery?
   Continuity on all three hall sensor leads?
   Open on the brake switch?  (Mine were shorted when I got it.)
   Open on the phase programming leads?
   It seems kinda iffy on running three inductive loads in series,
    seems there may be weird power spikes if you hook three fans
    in series.  You may need a voltage regulator instead.

[robertozm]

There does not seem to be a lot of documentation on the controllers.

Of course it goes without saying that you have checked the
obvious things, but just to be obvious:
   More than 33Volts from the battery?
   Continuity on all three hall sensor leads?
   Open on the brake switch?  (Mine were shorted when I got it.)
   Open on the phase programming leads?
   It seems kinda iffy on running three inductive loads in series,
    seems there may be weird power spikes if you hook three fans
    in series.  You may need a voltage regulator instead.

Hi e-Imer   
Thanks for your quick reply, and for being "obvious":
1.-  Yes, the cycle analist says 39.2volt.
2.- I don´t have a clue how to know the continuity of the hall sensor leads?  Can you help me with that?
3.- I think you talk about the self calibrating ability of this controller, I did it, and it was working for over a month and very well in did.  Why should this gone wild in the middle of a normal mild trip?  I was not going uphill, or very fast, nor was too hot or cold.
4.- Sorry but I don´t have a clue what is and why is bad the inductive loads in series.  The three fans are small 12volt, like the computer ones but much smaller, the are feed from the wires that comes from the key  (+), and from the battery (-), so they are feed before the controller.  The joint are  soldered and cover with shrinkable tubing.  The cycle analyst  says the fans consume a total 7w, or at least when on and throttle 0, and fans on.

I am going to try to calibrate it again, I hope is that easy.
Thanks.

[robertozm]

I tried to calibrate and no, there must be something broken.
Does anybody knows what means when the status led of the controller blinks 7 times?

To know that will get me a lot of work out

[biohazardman]

I tried to calibrate and no, there must be something broken.
Does anybody knows what means when the status led of the controller blinks 7 times?

To know that will get me a lot of work out

7 blinks on a C-lyte controller means Hall sensor problems  Not sure on the controller you have.

 http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4099&p=60692&hilit=Blink+codes#p60692

has much more information on many types of controllers.  Good luck.

[robertozm]

I tried to calibrate and no, there must be something broken.
Does anybody knows what means when the status led of the controller blinks 7 times?

To know that will get me a lot of work out

7 blinks on a C-lyte controller means Hall sensor problems  Not sure on the controller you have.

 http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4099&p=60692&hilit=Blink+codes#p60692

has much more information on mny types of controllers.  Good luck.

That is exatly what I was looking for.  Thank you very much, I hope the code is the same for my controller, this will take out a lot of revision work.
Thank you very much.
Anyway, I have just open the box with my new hub motor, and the new magic controller, I hope everything will be for spare, after I change the hall sensor
Things are changing in Golden Motor, not only because now we have someone that answer, I am talking about Tom, who gets involve and try his best to help you, I also talk about the items, the look of the things I have recieved is quite solid, clean, well machined.  The controller is very well finish and machined.  They send mine without two sticker, but nothing really important.
I have to work a little on my bike, things I want to change and fix a new ones, and I will test it. 

BioHazard.  Thanks.

[TOM]

Does anybody knows which is the problem when the status led of the regen controller blinks 7 times???

Could you take a photo or movie,let me see it,if the controller from goldenmotor,I can make sure what's problem.

[philf]

Knowing what 7 blinks means would help to fill in an unknown...

On the Shenzhen's, the status LED blinks mean the following (as far as anyone has been able to identify).

No light: Motor running
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active

4 and 7 are unknown, as you can see :-(

[biohazardman]

I tried to calibrate and no, there must be something broken.
Does anybody knows what means when the status led of the controller blinks 7 times?

To know that will get me a lot of work out

7 blinks on a C-lyte controller means Hall sensor problems  Not sure on the controller you have.

 http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4099&p=60692&hilit=Blink+codes#p60692

has much more information on mny types of controllers.  Good luck.

That is exatly what I was looking for.  Thank you very much, I hope the code is the same for my controller, this will take out a lot of revision work.
Thank you very much.
Anyway, I have just open the box with my new hub motor, and the new magic controller, I hope everything will be for spare, after I change the hall sensor
Things are changing in Golden Motor, not only because now we have someone that answer, I am talking about Tom, who gets involve and try his best to help you, I also talk about the items, the look of the things I have recieved is quite solid, clean, well machined.  The controller is very well finish and machined.  They send mine without two sticker, but nothing really important.
I have to work a little on my bike, things I want to change and fix a new ones, and I will test it. 

BioHazard.  Thanks.

You are welcome.  Sorry it's not quite right and the one that Phif has is missing your information also.  Please be sure to post when you get it figured out so we can have the information for later use.

[Lanchon]

hi roberto,

I noticed you speak spanish, may I ask where you are from?

[robertozm]

hi roberto,

I noticed you speak spanish, may I ask where you are from?

Sure!!.  I am from and living in Seville, Andalucia, Spain, Europe.  But I hope not for long, because we want to move to New Zealand in no more than 3 years from now.
Why?  Where are you from?

[robertozm]

You are welcome.  Sorry it's not quite right and the one that Phif has is missing your information also.  Please be sure to post when you get it figured out so we can have the information for later use.[/quote]

Well, finally I placed an order with a new rear hub motor, the new magic controller, a spare hall sensor kit, and the headlamp of the Qute Buggy.
The first thing I tried was with the new controller. It didn´t work, so I opened the hub motor; apparently nothing was visible burnt, so I test the continuity and discover that the black hall sensor wire was cut, so I repair it and tried with the new cotroller.  At first work only in the reverse direction, and only when already in motion, it doesn´t work if stop, you have to be in motion.  I tried to short conecctions RZ (see Tom diagram) which is suppouse to be exactly for reversing, but it did not work.  So I change the conections of the hub motor wires (Yellow-yellow, Blue-blue, Green-green, to Yellow-blue, Blue-green, Green-yellow) and then it works.
I changed the controller for the old regen one, and now the led was steady (therefore, 7 blinks is = hall sensor fairlure), but I could not get it to run.  I have to try to find the fase of the motor, but I need time.
For now, I think the new controller is better than the old one.  At least is smaller, but looks much more solid.  I seams it is heavier, but I can not assure that.  The conections are very tidy.  One thing I don´t like is the connetors for the battery.  I think they are too small, and the bayonet type.
Now I have to work with the new wires for the cruise function, for the headlamp and the horn of the headlamp.  I am also considering to fix the Cicle Analist in the headlamp, but I not sure yet.
The new 36v500w rear hub motor, comes without the sprokects, and on the left side comes with thread I think is for disk breaks    Of course the wires are as thin as always and that kind of semirigid ones.  When I test it, I found that the axle has been improved and it is well align.  But it does a little bit of noise like if something is chafing,  I will open it and check it out.

I will finish and post the results.

[Lanchon]

Sure!!.  I am from and living in Seville...  Where are you from?

buenos aires; apparently no one in argentina has a GM hub. btw, your bike looks really awesome, great work!

[biohazardman]

You are welcome.  Sorry it's not quite right and the one that Phif has is missing your information also.  Please be sure to post when you get it figured out so we can have the information for later use.

Well, finally I placed an order with a new rear hub motor, the new magic controller, a spare hall sensor kit, and the headlamp of the Qute Buggy.
The first thing I tried was with the new controller. It didn´t work, so I opened the hub motor; apparently nothing was visible burnt, so I test the continuity and discover that the black hall sensor wire was cut, so I repair it and tried with the new cotroller.  At first work only in the reverse direction, and only when already in motion, it doesn´t work if stop, you have to be in motion.  I tried to short conecctions RZ (see Tom diagram) which is suppouse to be exactly for reversing, but it did not work.  So I change the conections of the hub motor wires (Yellow-yellow, Blue-blue, Green-green, to Yellow-blue, Blue-green, Green-yellow) and then it works.
I changed the controller for the old regen one, and now the led was steady (therefore, 7 blinks is = hall sensor fairlure), but I could not get it to run.  I have to try to find the fase of the motor, but I need time.
For now, I think the new controller is better than the old one.  At least is smaller, but looks much more solid.  I seams it is heavier, but I can not assure that.  The conections are very tidy.  One thing I don´t like is the connetors for the battery.  I think they are too small, and the bayonet type.
Now I have to work with the new wires for the cruise function, for the headlamp and the horn of the headlamp.  I am also considering to fix the Cicle Analist in the headlamp, but I not sure yet.
The new 36v500w rear hub motor, comes without the sprokects, and on the left side comes with thread I think is for disk breaks    Of course the wires are as thin as always and that kind of semirigid ones.  When I test it, I found that the axle has been improved and it is well align.  But it does a little bit of noise like if something is chafing,  I will open it and check it out.

I will finish and post the results.


[/quote] You should have a spacer on each side of the axle see link.  http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=120.msg1321;topicseen#msg1321  If they are not centered they will rub and make noise till they wear in.
When I replaced my freewheel gears the new one rubbed slightly on the wheel motor. So I had to dremel the wheel slightly.  A thin shim should do the same for clearance if it is needed.