Is my bike broken?

[nks]

Hello,

I have the same problem.
I've had my Golden Motor 36V/500W kit for about 2,5 months now, and has been great!

Just last Friday, things changed. It suddenly started shuddering when I applied the throttle, and would only go very slow. I tried riding it and using the throttle, and it seemed to go a little faster, then it went perfect for about 1 minute and suddenly got really heavy.

I checked the wiring, and noticed one of the 3 thin wires (I believe connected to the throttle control) was not connected properly. The green middle one. When I reconnected, the bike still had a shuddering or resistance problem. I disconnected everything, and rode the bike home, but it still had some resistance from the motor.

Now, when I turn on the bike, the controller doesn't nothing, and if I attempt to move the bike, it has a lot of resistance. It seems to be fighting itself, like trying to go back and forth at the same time!?

I checked all my connections and it all seems fine.
At the moment the bike seems to be dead. I not have a signal.

I checked in the weekend in golden motor forum, and I see how to check if the problem is on the motor or controller.

http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=358.0

After I check, the problem is on the controller. All the HALL SENSORS are responding, and if I disconnected the controller I don't have any resistance on the motor.

Please help!

The controller is different from that one on the picture. I don't see any diode.

[biohazardman]

forget about the fets there in the controller, your geting a replacment anyway.
its a good idea to mount the controller out of the bag so it can cool.
and no ebike is water proof avoid riding on a rainy day. if it starts raining turn it off and pedal home. give it time to dry out.

a simple test for the hall sensors would be to install your new controller power it up lift the rear wheel and give it just a little gas to see if the hubmotor turns if not, turn it off and replace all three sensors there cheep and can be ordered from ebikes.ca.

you will need to open your hubmotor to do this, not a easy thing to do first time around. I do it by hand, a few people use a flywheel
puller used for small engine repair.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfu6_41WVf0

I have many miles of riding my GM in the rain and no trouble as of yet.  I put the controller in a box and the throttle under it so both are somewhat protected.  The motor wires are looped below the unsealed axle before entering it so water drips off.  2K miles on the bike thusfar I tossed the original rim and axle nuts and replaced many spokes as well as fried a controller because of some poor wiring werq.

[nks]

Thanks for your tip.
Yes, I received an e-mail from Mr. Philip Yao saying that I will receive a new controller soon.

I found this link that can help me and other people:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4282&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=led

The picture of the controller is very similar the difference is only that mine is 36v/500w and this in the picture is 72v/1000w.
I think the led status indicator is the same? If so, we can make a faster diagnostic of the problem. What do you think?

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On the circuit board, there is a LED status indicator.
This is very similar to the Crystalyte v.2 controller.
Unfortunately, you have to take the controller apart to see it.
It would be possible to extend the LED to the outside with a pair of wires.

From what I can tell, the codes are:

No light: Motor running
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active