Throttle indicator problem - simple solution? and other questions...

[MonkeyMagic]

I'm thinking of lashing 4 x 16" cast wheels to of these as a base

I'll add structure and possibly change to rack n pinion

[Bikemad]

I'm thinking of lashing 4 x 16" cast wheels to of these as a base

The four 16" cast wheels I can understand, but a vacuum flask seems like a very unusual choice for a vehicle chassis:



something like this would make more sense:


          Click to watch video on YouTube.           

Are you sure that was the correct link?

Alan
 

[MonkeyMagic]

Are you sure that was the correct link?

Alan I must say I completly pissed myself laughing clicking on that link. No lol it wasn't correct, it seems the deals site URL seems to change depending on the deal or something hahaa

These go for $140 delivered in AUS, and are the larger type of pedal karts. I will be removing the pedal system and strengthening the frame, possibly adding PVC caging, then I want to do 4 x 16" cast external using Lyen or Kelly controllers around 90v 40-50A

Probably will cost around $2500 all up, I'm hoping to make a fun sideways action go kart for my local tracks

Do you think with around 110kg weight (total) I will get some rear wheel spin action on corners?? I've been watching go kart drifting videos lol and want to do an electric hub version

It won't go anywhere near off road so suspension was no too important. Anyways vacuum flask!!! bwahahhahaaa

[Bikemad]

Do you think with around 110kg weight (total) I will get some rear wheel spin action on corners?? I've been watching go kart drifting videos lol and want to do an electric hub version

It depends on how far forward you can mount your batteries, but even then, the surface of the track would need to be fairly loose and dusty to get the back end to drift out. If it's a tarmac surfaced track, I don't think it's likely to happen without a lot more power.

Just make it front wheel drive and put some castors on the back, I imagine it would be entertaining trying to corner at any speed then.

Alan
 

[MonkeyMagic]

ok thats twice tonight you made me seriously crack up

Hmmm so I will need to re-evaluate my choice of hub motor....

Funny I feel partially dedicated to GM for some reason the past few years, although I'm leaning toward jumping the fence over to Kelly.

like these things:
http://Kellycontroller.com/hub-motor-72v-6kw13-inch-p-389.html

I like the stamping on the side haha

[Supatrike]

If y'all are interested, I threw together a little video of my trike.

I'm still getting a reading of "empty" on my throttle, but I'm getting a full 40V out of the 36V battery.  After a 14 mile ride (with a bit of peddling) the charge still read 38V so, that's good.  If I measure the charge going to the throttle, what should it read?

Goldenmotor China still hasn't responded to my emails though.  I'll post a report about my ordeals with them later...

meanwhile:

http://vimeo.com/24362622

As always thanks to all your help.

Bart

[Bikemad]

I'm still getting a reading of "empty" on my throttle, but I'm getting a full 40V out of the 36V battery.  After a 14 mile ride (with a bit of peddling) the charge still read 38V so, that's good.  If I measure the charge going to the throttle, what should it read?

Bart, it sounds as if you may have been supplied with a 48V throttle control instead of the 36V one. A 48V battery gauge would show empty @ 40V, because your 40V reading is similar to the voltage of a fully discharged 48V pack.

The lead that powers the battery gauge unit on the throttle read the same as your battery voltage.

The 40V you now have is considerably higher than the 29.1V your pack was producing, what was causing the initial low voltage problem, was it the battery, the charger, or something else?

With the 36V battery, 38V = 3.8V per cell, if you look at the following diagram you should be able to see that your pack is nearly 95% discharged at the end of your 14 mile ride.



Your battery should still be nearer to 42V if all the cells are fully charged and evenly balanced.

Nice video by the way.

Alan
 

[Supatrike]

The 40V you now have is considerably higher than the 29.1V your pack was producing, what was causing the initial low voltage problem, was it the battery, the charger, or something else?

I have no idea why it read around 29V for my first two rides... It did work at that voltage, and I took the reading directly from the battery terminals.  I'm glad I took a photo to prove it, otherwise I might not even believe myself.

I'll test the voltage at the throttle later today.  If it reads the same as the battery, then is there a way to hack it to read correctly?  Replace a resistor or something?

I'll repost a better video soon, but thanks for watching that one.  And thanks for the graph!!!

Bart