Replaced the controller... Still no go :(

[MonkeyMagic]

G'day

Hey I thought I would post this as a different topic, but it is a follow up to an early failure 16" cast Pie wheel.
Anyways I've sent an email to Tom today, I've installed a replacement controller but the wheel still does not function.

All of the hardware as far as I can see is fine. I have both a 20" and a 16" cast wheel the 16" is the one that is not working.

So I use the same battery setup, throttle, buttons etc. on my bike with the 20"; then when testing the 16" wheel I just plugged it in that's why I know its this wheel at fault. But what?

I get battery readings from the throttle guage as in all 3 lights are lit however, no matter if I have the 8-pin connector wiring (also replaced) connected or not - I still get 0.9v from the 5v output. Even the throttle sensor input reads 0.9v so I don't even get beeps from the controller.

Controller Connection - Magic Pie
*Battery Connection                 = 54v
*5V Connection                       = 0.9v ?
*Hall Sensor Connections          = 0.9v ?
*Yellow Phase Wire Resistance   = 3.0K OHM
*Blue Phase Wire Resistance      = 3.0K OHM
*Green Phase Wire Resistance    = 3.0K OHM

Frustrating, because while reading the battery connection and switching the power on then off I can see the volts slowly drop showing the caps are discharging and the circuit is complete. The cruise control does not function either.

While posting this, I disconnected the phase wires and still same readings. I've tested it in every configuration only to put it down to the intital hook up, something occuring there. It couldnt be that bad luck to receive a dodgy replacement controller lol - So what could be wrong in the wheel to cause the controller to do this?

I'd love to get this 16" going again, any tips would be great and yeah Tom if you read this can you reply to me email hehe

Cheers

[Bikemad]

It could be a fault with one or more of the hall sensors, or a partial short on the hall sensor supply wire.

I would connect the old controller to your battery and see if its 5V output is working now it's disconnected.

Remove the R/H hub cover and unsolder the red hall sensor power supply lead from the new controller and see if you then have 5V on the controller's +5V terminal with the power turned on. (If the regulator has not been damaged)

Alan
 

[MonkeyMagic]

Hi Bikemad

Many thanks for your reply.

Unfortately the old controller does not function what so ever anymore. It just "Thumps" when you turn it on. + & - are connected on the board from when it failed. There are also signs of damage on the board. This was from a single use.

So I'm really scared to do this with the new controller. But from the new install, thinking the controller was the cause I just installed it as normal obviously without testing it just connected to power.

I think you are right about the hall sensors, not sure how it would cause the whole fault tho. I'm also pretty sure that fitting the new controller, and testing the 5v supply which is not correct the damage is already done.

So I'm stuck.... Luckily I bought this new wheel as I was afraid I would be without a Pie again.... I am but only 1 Pie down of 2 so I'm not too bad off, just the fact that I want them both working....

Tom?? Lol help me dude I want to send this back to get sorted


Cheers again Bikemad

[ltalbot]

Hi MonkeyMagic,

I am currently having the same issue! I have replaced the controller with a brand new one from GM.
The wheel is blocked. Disconnecting the yellow phase unblocks it ( manually).

there's something wrong in the wheel, but I don't know where to look at!

Do you have any news from Tom ? I think I'll try to reach him for the same purpose. There must be a solution
Loic

[MonkeyMagic]

Hey mate

No I don't unfortunately - I'll be testing the hall sensors in the near future however, I do not get any beeps from the Pie. Data cable does not connect. Only sign of life is the battery main signal through the controller and less than 1v living around the LVR.

Not a happy pie, maybe it spent too long in the oven when it was being cooked lol

I've been using my 20" cast wheel, so I guess my patience is surpassed with that smooth pie sensation. Would be fantastic to have both going though so I can make a scooter or something out of the 16"

Anyways if I get any luck I'll post up the news... Likewise with you too Mr.


Let us know if anything comes up. Cheers

[Cornelius]

Italbot:
Sounds like a shorted FET on the controller if you have cogging while turning your wheel, and the cogging disappears when you disconnect a phase wire from the controller...

[Dave Watson]

I also have cogging on my wheel now after one 15 minute ride on my new MW16B.  I disconnect one phase wire and wheel spins freely.  5 beeps from controller on power up now.  USB connects normally.  I am going to modify the setup of the controller anyway and post the process of it (beefing up solder, shunt mod.,etc..) and so I will hopefully detail the replacement of the FETs as well.

[Cornelius]

Finding the offending FET are normally easy; any FET measuring a short between any of the legs (with no wires connected to the controller) are suspect. (Even with the fets still in place...)

On some rare occations, there are a weak Fet in the controller, and the only way to discover it are for it to fail... Been there; done that.

[Leslie]

It maybe the 78l05 or a resistor in there.  Look for the LM78LO5 reg.  I think its the TO-92 package version on this board. You may need to replace it.

Not sure. but some times they stick a small resistor on the ground leg to get the volts up a point.  So it may be not even getting power.  Make sure soft off on wire is connected.

Make sure that 5v traces from it to the logic circuits and there is not a single hair of wire or blob of solder out of place.

Or use the new fets to replace the bad ones in the old controller,  I wouldn't trust any of the old fets after one has failed.  

[Leslie]

Just found dry solders on Dave Watsons board. He since defuncted the controller, deifuncted it right and true I thinks..

OMG this $#!+ is making me feel Ill.  I wasnt even saying to mod it just fix the shunt pad that was pretty poor.