48v controller supply more power?

[scott]

I have  36v Magic controller on my 48v rear GM wheel, plus 48v GM battery. It seems tame. Would a 48v controller supply more ZIP?

Thanks, Scott

[Bikemad]

Would a 48v controller supply more ZIP?

Scott,

I don't think the 48V controller will give any improvement over the 36V unit as they are both rated at the same current level.
As far as I'm aware, the only real difference between them is the pre-set LVC.

Alan
 

[Philip Lynott]

Both the 36V and the 48V may have the same current output, but the 48V will have 25% more power (p = V.I), this means you should get some Increase in top speed and maybe acceleration.

Thats my opinion.

Phil

[Bikemad]

Phil,

I can see where you're coming from, but if they're both limited to 50Amp max, the power should only increase with the battery voltage, not the controller.

Has anyone actually tried it?

Alan
 

[scott]

I will .9 days after shiping! Tkx    PL

Scott

[Philip Lynott]

Bikemad,

On second taughts you may be right

[stl_recum]

You may want to take a look at this posting on endless-sphere. He got 100 plus amp through the
controller before it had a meltdown

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11015

[Leslie]

Ive been using 48v power on my golden 36v controller and 36v hub for over a year now.  Top speed is about 39 kph 11kph more than 36v and torque has improved slightly.  I get more distance per ah on the higher volts as I move faster over the same time.

You are at risk burning your power resistor out using a 48v battery on a 36v controller.


Depending on your controller you may have to mod it or get a new one.  

Because I use 24ah SLA's I don't care about LVC and with the mod I use its almost disabled.  I don't even get close to 50% dod.


If youre are interested here I am looking at a new chip called the LM2576hv for mods and power regulators in controllers and bike lights that can tap right off a 60v supply and drop the voltage to a number of adjustable voltages.  This chip is small, easy to use and is not like the linear regulators in most controllers found today.  It uses a buck down step regulation over a inductor using pulse width fixed cycle rate at 52khz.


If you like tinkering and risking buying a new controller you have nothing to lose trying a mod.  The worst thing could happen is you blow your controller and have to get a 48v one anyway.

The thing you may need to consider is if you have Lifepo4, that it does have an LVC BMS and what type of controller you already have.

[Leslie]

If you want more power to you motor through the controller you can add another shunt pipe over to your fets. This is technically easy to do but may find it problematic as there may be no spot to put this.  A 5 amp shunt pipe should give you a bit more balls without hurting any of the fets or motor.

You may hurt the motor if you overload it with weight or on a long steep hill.  

Ebike kits are designed to go flat out, unlike cars where if you full throttle it for a whole trip you blow your motor.  The motors are in essence designed to handle much more than they are limited to for good reasons. If you had a motor that could go 80 kph you wouldnt normally be doing this the whole trip.  There would be stops and slow periods.  Long distance Hiway commutes are not usually within an ebikes capacity and the batteries are usually flat within an 1.5 hours of use.  So weight is going top be the concern with a mod.

Can you show me what controller you have and I can show you where to add a current pipe on it.  It would be up top you to find and purchase the right parts.  I could help you source the parts too.

[Leslie]

This is not a GM controller but an example of the mod I am talking of.  The shunt pipes here allow current through to the fets.  This was 20 amp and now 30 amps.  Again this mod works ok if you are not loading your bike crazy and your motor has the windings to take it..

Use at your own risk.