Smart pie 4 failure

[Trim4]

Hi everyone, need some suggestions as I'm close to giving up on this kit
I bought this  kit a few years ago and used it very little.
I never was able to connect the controller to a pc and have used  all the suggested methods, messaging Gary, changing drivers etc. so gave up and used it programmed as is. It worked ok and made a good basic ebike. Recently tried to use it again, full charged battery and when throttling up the bike pulled weakly and then cut off. It would do this again and again, so I suspected a bad cell in the battery. Battery wasn't used much so figured it went bad.Without testing anything, I bought a new quality battery, and same thing. So, I suspect now a controller or motor windings. I removed the controller and there is no sign of damage to cables or the board. This kit has been a disappointment for me, I expected better quality.
This bike is for my wife, as I bought a Bafang mid drive for my bike and it has been absolutely wonderful, easy to program, powerful and it sure is easier to change a tire!
Is there a resistance test I can do on the motor windings and any tips on testing the controller?
I don't have a problem with fitting a new controller, but if its the motor hub, I think I  will bin it and move on.
I can't id the controller as the sticker was scratched off when it arrived, but it has the spade plugs and black hall sensor plug

[Bikemad]

As you've obviously had the controller off before, I would suggest removing the controller again and checking the the LED on the circuit board for an error.

A single flash when the power is turned on is normal, any regular flashing will indicate a specific fault identifiable by the number of flashes.

You will need to have the Hall sensor connector and the Phase wires connected to the controller along with the throttle control and brakes etc.

Also check for 4.5~5V between the red and black wires on the Hall sensor connector.

With the controller removed and disconnected from the motor, you can perform a simple test on the phase wires/stator windings by touching each pair of phase wire terminals together and then trying to spin the wheel.
If the phase wires are all OK, the wheel should resit any attempts to spin it, as the shorted phase wires will cause an electromagnetic dynamic braking effect.
The level of resistance should be identical with all three combinations of pairs touched together (Yellow/Blue, Blue/Green and Green/Yellow) indicating the continuity of all three of the windings.

If there was an internal short within the windings, the level of resistance would vary in the above test, and the wheel could be difficult to turn all the time. 

Alan
 

[Trim4]

Thanks for your reply. I actually have never removed the controller till now. As indicated, I used the kit as set up from GM, without being able to connect to it. Gary wanted me to send the entire wheel back for warranty and the shipping there and back was just too much.  I have determined the motor checks out ok, so I went ahead and ordered the smartpie 5 controller. I am hoping I can connect to the new controller with my pc to adjust motor perimeters