Throttle shows ON and LED lights are on even when throttle is turned off

[Ryry]

Hello there,
Ive recently got a Magic Pie 4 Vector and hooked it up.But when I turn the key on my battery my throttle leds light up without the red on button being pressed. With them being on I then press the red button and twist the throttle which leads to the engine not turning on at all. The first time we turned the throttle and the engine started in reverse. PLEASE HELP
Sincerely Rylan Jonas
-Update-
I think I connected the horn and light wires to the PAS wires since they were the same color. The lights still work so I believe the controller still works as well. if they are not connected should I just zip tie them to the frame.

[Bikemad]

Hi Rylan andto the forum.

It is very important that all eight of the unused wires should be properly insulated from each other to prevent the possibility of any exposed wires touching against each other.

Connecting the four wires together on the control and motor harnesses and then pressing the light switch (the button on the throttle) it likely to have permanently damaged the controller (and probably the Hall sensors inside the throttle control and the motor) as you will have sent the full battery voltage straight into the controller's low voltage (+5V) supply which supplies power to all of the hall sensors.

If the motor no longer runs (which I'm guessing it doesn't) then I think it's safe to assume that irreversible damage has already been caused.

The LED battery gauge on the throttle is supposed to be powered directly from the full battery voltage and therefore will not have been damaged (which is why they still light up) however, the throttle Hall sensor, motor controller, and the three Hall sensors inside the motor are likely to have been damaged by receiving the high battery voltage.

If the motor will no longer run, I suggest you contact your supplier and explain what has happened and see if they are prepared to assist you with the repair.



However, if I'm wrong (and the motor does still run) you should consider yourself very lucky indeed.

Alan
 

[Ryry]

Thank you for your reply Alan. Ill call goldenmotors.ca and see if they can help me. When I plug my controller into my pc I can still adjust the settings though.Do you think I can buy a new motor or hub instead of buying a whole new kit?

[Bikemad]

Hi Rylan,

Speak to Gary first (GoldenMotor Canada) and ask him to read this post, and then see what he suggests, but without confirming which components are actually damaged it is difficult to know which bits will need to be replaced.

If you have access to a voltmeter you can easily check if the +5V supply is still working by measuring the voltage between the black and red wires on the four unused wires on the motor harness.

If you have a reading of 4.5~5V your controller may have miraculously survived the ordeal, but if you have a reading of less than 1V or more than 6V then the controller will definitely need to be replaced.

If you do have a reading of between 4.5~5V you would then need to check the output of the three motor Hall sensors by removing the controller and measuring the voltage between the black wire and each of the Yellow, Green and Blue signal wires on the hall sensor connector. Measure them one at a time while it is still plugged into the controller and the battery turned on.
(You do not need to have the control harness plugged into the motor harness to be able to do this, but you must have the battery plugged in and turned on during the test procedure)

Place a 10mm spanner on the flats of the axle and very slowly rotate the axle in relation to the wheel and see if the voltage alternates between zero and ~5V. If the voltage switches high, low, high, low etc. when the axle is moved slowly it means that the Hall sensor is working correctly.
If all three signals switch from high to low as expected then the motor should be good, but if one (or more) of the Hall sensor outputs does not switch high and low as expected, you will need to either repair (replace the blown Hall sensors):



or replace the stator assembly:



If the controller and the Hall sensors in the motor are all OK, it might hopefully just be the throttle unit that will need to be replaced.

Alan
 

[Ryry]

Thank you Alan for your help. The golden motor support is really good!
Im gonna check to night ill get back to you. I couldn't find instructions so I just assumed the same colors go to the same colors when putting the kit together. Maybe written instructions should come with it lol. Ill let you know how it goes!

[Ryry]

Hey Alan
I've checked the volts of the PAS and horn/light wires. The PAS is 4.96 v and the Horn/Light is 0.7. I think this means that the controller survived!(Hopefully)(Maybe this is a bade thing) Is there anywhere I can buy Hull sensors? I just emailed Gary hopefully he sees my email.

[Bikemad]

Hopefully your controller has had a lucky escape, but you still need to find out why the motor does not run.

It would be easier to simply plug in another throttle to see if it cures the problem before dismantling the motor, but if another throttle doesn't cure the problem you will still have to check the operation of the three Hall sensors inside the motor by removing the controller unit to access the Hall connections on the rear of it.

I don't know whether Gary keeps the GM hall sensors in stock, but if he doesn't have them, the Honeywell SS41 Hall sensors are commonly used as replacements and should be obtainable from most large electronic component suppliers.

If you can't get them locally you could try Edward Lyen on the Endless-Sphere forum.

Alan