48V batteries

[Pwd]

Sounds logical Alan, sounds like my plan will be to attempt replacing the resistor as mentioned below. Is it possible to test how many ohms of a resistor I will need? I quickly attached my multi-meter this morning and placed the + and - on the ends of one of the other "101" flat resistors and it read 50.2 ohms, does that sound right?

Thanks again

[MonkeyMagic]

Doesn't sound right... It should be 100Ohm with 10 being the resistance value and 1 being the zero multiplier

Like see here
It would be a 1/2W I'd say they are fairly big for SMD

Perhaps because you are testing it in circuit - you are reading the value under circuit resistance also, so the value is not accurate.

101SMD should be 100R

[Bikemad]

Paul, as Monkey has already mentioned, if the 100 Ohms resistors are connected in parallel with another ~100 Ohms resistance you would get a reading of ~50 Ohms.

Did you check the reading on the broken resistor, and if so, what measurement did you get across it? If it was ~100 Ohms instead of the ~50 Ohms of the others, it would seem to make sense, but it would be interesting to know what value you have measured.

IDENTIFYING SM RESISTORS
Most of the 5% SM resistors conform to a 3-digit code. But some suppliers are using the 4 digit code
 
A 3-digit 330k SM resistor

The first two digits represent the two digits in the answer. The third digit represents the number of zero's you must place after the two digits. The answer will be OHMS. For example: 334 is written 33 0 000. This is written 330,000 ohms. The comma can be replaced by the letter "k". The final answer is: 330k.
222 = 22 00 = 2,200 = 2k2
473 = 47 000  = 47,000 = 47k
105 = 10 00000 = 1,000,000 = 1M = one million ohms
There is one trick you have to remember. Resistances less than 100 ohms are written: 100, 220, 470. These are 10 and NO zero's = 10 ohms = 10R or 22 and no zero's = 22R  or 47 and no zero's = 47R.  Sometimes the resistor is marked: 10,   22 and 47 to prevent a mistake.

100 = 10R = 10 Ohms, but 101 = 100R = 100 Ohms, a 50 Ohms resistor would be marked 500 (or 50).

Alan
 

[Pwd]

The 101 or Brown black brown, makes sense again; so I went out and bought some 100ohm 1/2watt resistors. I will try to test the damaged resistor to see what kind of a reading I get. So hopefully after work I can test it again than begin attempting to replace the resistor. Thanks everyone, wish me luck 

[Pwd]

So I replaced the broken resistor with a 1/2W 100 ohm resistor today and no such luck, my battery is still cutting out. The resistor that was read at 100ohms is now 50 like the rest, so I think the resistor fix worked but the bms cutting of early is still an issue. I was quite bummed out by this so I decided to tackle some other things today. My next step is is drain the battery down and measure the cell groups again.

[Bikemad]

Sorry to hear it's not the resistor causing the cutting out Paul.

If you didn't fully recharge it after replacing the broken resistor, it might be worth doing this first.
Although I don't honestly think it will make much difference, it could be worth a try.

Post the results when you've drained and tested the cells and let's see if we can find a reason for it.

Alan
 

[Cornelius]

Yes; drain it; charge it, and let it rest for at least half'n hour; top it up with the charger, and then test; drain, and measure...

[Thomas]

Odd... I've always associated this start/cutout problem with lame/loose external connectors. The problem would usually abate when I would stop and secure the connector between the battery and the motor and insure a good connection on the other adjacent connector (where the throttle/etc plugs into at the motor). If both were secure (and connectors taped tightly together) the problem would cease. I've had trouble with both connectors because of the suspension in back giggling the connectors and apparently causing a bad connection. Perhaps I've had a bad cell the whole time and seldom encounter the problem because I keep the battery charged after 11 mile commutes.

[Pwd]

Hey guys, so I haven't yet got around to draining, charging then measuring lately since I use my bike as my daily driver. I have however let it sit after charging for a full day and it charged a bit more. My plan is to drain the battery down as far as I can, the problem is it cuts out early so I need a way to drain this as much as possible without damaging cells. I will start by taking the bike out and driving around till the bms cuts out, then limp home and hook the battery up to something else to attempt to drain the remaining power. Any thoughts on this?