Replacing battery keylock of a 48v battery,, please help!

[Hardcore]

ik heb een nieuwe keylock gekregen om mijn kapotte te vervangen maar nou zijn er maar 2 soldeerpunten en op de oude zijn er 4 hoe moet ik het nu solderen?

hey guys I god a new keylock to replace my old one but the new one has only 2 solderingpoints and the old one has 4? pics included.

[Hardcore]

more pics

[Hardcore]

more more pics

[Hardcore]

more more more pics

[TRK]

Ignore the two short wire bridges, just connect the long wires to one point each (and hope that the new switch can handle the current I guess).

[Hardcore]

okay I'll try that

[e-lmer]

I suggest you do more than 'hope.'

The solder jumpers on the keylock were to double the
current capacity, each connection carried half the current.

A 48V battery probably draws 10 or 12 Amperes.

That means your keylock should reasonably be able
to carry 15A continuous. (20 would be better.)

I can't imagine much less fun than pushing your bike
home when the key burns out, except possibly
having the keylock catch fire and burning your battery,
bike, and bottom.

[Hardcore]

well, I got the keylock from GM

[e-lmer]

well, I got the keylock from GM

D'ohh.  That pretty much means it's up to the task.

My bad.

[Hardcore]

also if it's on the red icon it gives 48v and when it's on the black or unlock on then it still outputs 24v->28v
but the wheel doesn't work in those position(that's supposed to be it but why does it still outputs a current?)

ty kevin

[Bikemad]

Kevin,

I expect you're measuring the voltage with the battery still connected to the bike, the voltage you are reading is likely to be coming from the capacitors in the speed controller, which will still be partially charged, and not the battery.

Try disconnecting the battery completely, and then check the voltage across the battery socket connections with the key turned off.
(This should be 0V)

Then put your voltmeter across the plug contacts and see what reading you get.

Alan