Author Topic: Motor cutout  (Read 13998 times)

Offline Mossebon

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Motor cutout
« on: June 04, 2010, 07:11:49 AM »
Hi to you all in the forum!
I´ve just purchased an e-kit with a 500W motor, Magic-controller and 36V/16Ah battery. Everything is mounted an ready. When "freeweeling" everything runs good, but when I´m on the bike the motor cuts out after a few seconds. The battery is fully charged, the indicator shows full all the time and all wiring is well made. At the cut out the motor brakes the bike to a stop. This braking can be inhibited by pulling the brake lever a little bit. To be able to try again I have to turn off and on the key.
I´ve ordered a USB-cable but this will not arrive for a couple of weeks. Somebody who has an idea about the described problem? It´s so nice weather right now so I would like to ride the bike now.
 /Mike 8)

Offline Leslie

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2010, 08:46:46 AM »
Try disconnect the brake switch to test. Do not ride too far and be careful you do not ride near people walking.

If the motor gets stuck at full speed, pull the brakes hard and stop the bikle against the motor and lay the bike down to switch off.

It sounds pretty weird.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2010, 08:50:30 AM by 317537 »

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Offline Mossebon

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2010, 09:37:01 AM »
Hello 317537!
I´ll try your idea when I get home.
Could it be the current limitation in the controller that´s not correctly set?
//Mike

Offline Leslie

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2010, 10:25:51 AM »
I'm not sure.  I sounded like a faulty brake switch but then again not.

Is the controller under warranty?

If you cant figure it out and you have warranty.



Email Tom and get some assistance there.

zhourenli@goldenmotor.com
« Last Edit: June 04, 2010, 10:28:16 AM by 317537 »

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Offline Mossebon

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2010, 07:06:44 PM »
Hello again.
The brake test failed. To ride the bike I had to turn the throttle 4 times and get 4 error beeps. Then I rode it at half speed with the cruise control button, with no cutouts! I even tried the other way; hold brake lever, press cruise control button 5 times, got beep and off I went at half speed with the c c button. No cutouts.
At last I switched on the key to drive as normal and it cut out after a few seconds. As before.
Maybe a faulty controller as you mean?
And yes, I have warranty but I didn´t buy the kit directly from GM. Bad choise because I paid about 15% overprice
I´ll try email Tom!
/Mike

Offline GM Canada

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2010, 02:30:22 AM »

If the motor gets stuck at full speed, pull the brakes hard and stop the bikle against the motor and lay the bike down to switch off.


Or turn off the key switch if you can reach it  :D

Gary

Offline Leslie

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2010, 04:04:51 AM »
Yes but it may require both hands on the brakes to stop the bike.

If you ever been in the sitaution where a ground pin comes off heading towards people sitting around on chairs in the back yard..  and Doh you didnt install brake switches. 

Seriously,  They were like WTF.  Excuse me for being verbose.  Though it came to my attention that these are not just a normal bikes and its not cool to ride in such a fashion..

All the realisations is learned along the way in this new culture.

Its not often I will not install my brake switches and the HBS is an awesome force on V brakes.

There is that note in the GM manual that says you shouldnt turn your controller off in regen.   Laying the bike down allows you to release the brakes too in that way..

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Offline e-lmer

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2010, 05:33:42 AM »
This sounds more like a wiring issue.

It seems like what you have done is hook the brake
switch to the regen contacts and the opposite
on the controller.

Please snap a pic of your controller wiring and
use labels to say where each bundle goes.

Offline Leslie

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #8 on: June 05, 2010, 06:06:49 AM »
This sounds more like a wiring issue.

It seems like what you have done is hook the brake
switch to the regen contacts and the opposite
on the controller.

Please snap a pic of your controller wiring and
use labels to say where each bundle goes.


Hi welcome back...  ;)


Edit:

And I think you nailed it..
« Last Edit: June 05, 2010, 06:12:04 AM by 317537 »

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Offline Bikemad

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2010, 01:06:46 AM »
The brake test failed. To ride the bike I had to turn the throttle 4 times and get 4 error beeps.

With the brakes switches disconnected you should have an open circuit and should not get the 4 beep brake failure indication.
The four beeps should only occur when a brake switch is stuck on or the actual wires are touching together somewhere.

Check the wiring for the brake circuit carefully and make sure the wires are not touching together at any of the connectors.



This sounds more like a wiring issue.

It seems like what you have done is hook the brake
switch to the regen contacts and the opposite
on the controller.

Elmer, on the Magic controller the brake switches do operate the regen, as there are no separate contacts for regen.

Alan
 

Offline Mossebon

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2010, 06:27:27 AM »
Hello everybody!
Yesterday I took an "error ride" at half speed. No problemas. After I tested some things. I hooked off the brakes contact in order to make a test of the current limitation. This time I didn´t actually measure the current. I started the system and gave full throttle, with the brake lever I applied the brakes and stressed the motor to a near stop. At this time the wheel started spinning in reverse! I was able to throttle and run it that way for some seconds then it stopped. To do anything further the system had to be reset with the key. This "motor braking" I described in my first post could be the motor wanting to reverse!?
Again, all wiring is correct done. Double checked several times.

The four beeps are because I applied the brake lever to get in to the error mode.
//Mike

Got the USB-cable from GM today. Much sooner than I ever could expect, very good!
Hooked it on my Magic controller read out the settings. It was factory set on 24V motor, mine is a 36V 500W, and the reverse option was enabled.
Some kind of error must have occured in the controller because of these wrong settings. I corrected the settings. Now it works ok and the bike is good for riding. But it's slower and a bit more powerless than before, when it was wrong programmed. The bike now speeds up to about 31kph on flat ground wich is within specs with a 36V battery, I think. At the beginning the front wheel almost spun off on my gravel road, so it does no more. I hope this will last and I'm seeing forward to ride the 46km to work and then another 46km home again some day this week. Awaiting better weather. Thank's for all good ideas.
//Mike
« Last Edit: June 07, 2010, 08:39:33 PM by Mossebon »

Elperro

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #11 on: August 05, 2010, 06:33:29 PM »
Hello!
I am a new member of this forum in Finland.
I have a brand new 750 W motor and 36 V 15 Ah battery and the problem is the same as the member Mossebon. Engine stopped 10 minutes after driving, and gave 4 beeps.
Subsequently, USB cable checker controller settings and there was a 24 V DC, although the battery is 36V? I changed the settings, I checked all the wiring and switch power on controller gave five beeps!
After this situation has not changed anything!
I am an electrical engineer and I am sure, that belong to connections that have been carefully and correctly!
Can anyone help solve this problem?

Offline Bikemad

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2010, 01:39:07 AM »
Hi andto the forum.

Can we assume you have an HBS36R motor (or HBS36F) with the separate controller? (as you haven't mentioned Magic Pie.)

Not that this is really relevant, but are you sure the battery capacity is 15Ah?
They are normally 16Ah, and I just wondered if GM are now supplying different batteries (assuming yours is a GM battery).

Now let's take a look at the possible reason for the beeps:

4 beeps are normally produced when the controller switches to "Brake failure" mode, indicating a fault with one of the Power Breaking switches (brake lever switches) or a short circuit somewhere in the brake switch wiring.

5 beeps has not really been officially documented, but Tom from GM has said:
Quote from: Tom
The problem of 5 beeps is from the low voltage of battery
Unfortunately some users who have experienced 5 beeps, have ended up requiring new controllers. :(

What to do next:

I would suggest that you set the "Motor Voltage" on the controller software back to 24V to ensure the motor is not disabled by the Low voltage cut-off function of the controller, and then unplug the brake switch wiring from the controller and test the motor with the brake wiring disconnected and see what happens.

If you still get 5 beeps, I think it may well be a controller fault, but you will need to email Tom (zhourenli@goldenmotor.com) with a brief description of your fault and ask his advice.

If there are no beeps, and the motor works correctly, try reconnecting in the brake switch wiring and see if it then beeps again when you operate the throttle several times.
If the motor then stops responding and you hear 4 beeps, there will be a fault on one of the brake switches or somewhere on the wiring. The two brake switches are wired in parallel and both should be open circuit when released, check the wires at the connector plug to ensure there are no exposed wires are touching each other.

Please let us know the results of your testing.

Let's hope it's something nice and simple, and that it can be easily sorted.


Alan
 
« Last Edit: June 30, 2017, 07:46:56 PM by Bikemad »

Elperro

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Re: Motor cutout
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2010, 07:38:10 AM »
Hi!
First I have to correct my mistakes: Battery is 16 Ah,
Battery Voltage is 39,5 V, Motor HBS36F and controller BAC-0281P
See the attached image, restore the factory settings!
No effect -> 5 Beeps
I tested it before in the garage (connector open) and all was well, no beeps (only one when connect power ON)
Then I connected only a speed regulator to controller and motor runs well.
Since I am also programmers, I can not understand why GM does not put a PC program for fault diagnostics and reset button?
Since it would be much easier to understand what is wrong and reset the faults!
I will send this message to the GM also because you might be right, "the controller is fault"
Warranty is still valid, of course, because the devices is a completely new.
I take a few pictures also (see the attached images)
Hope so that GM make a little other parts of the PC-program in the future
Thanks any way!