GoldenMotor.com Forum

Thank you for the quick response and thank you for the reminder on the upload tool tools' idiosyncrasies. 

I've got that one figured out:

• connect to controller
• save parameters to controller
• power down controller
• wait 30 seconds and power powercontroller
• connect to controller and validate new values

I'll may try to activate the brake test however the reason I am reluctant to put a voltage meter any where near the throttle assembly in the live system is that I had a runaway that lasted <2 seconds that destroyed my Shaft coupling.  It's a wonderfully powerful motor.

I'll try with the settings you suggested.

As as safety feature I've purchased potentiometer with a  Detent at zero.   Here is the bench test profile:

Digikey potentiometer bench results:

Position	Black–Red (O, V)	Black–Green (O, V)	Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)	0 O, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%	~2.5 kO, 1.25 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V	~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%	~7.5 kO, 3.75 V	~2.5 kO, 3.75 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)	10.00 kO, 5.00 V	0 O, 5.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Any Way to make this work?

I really appreciate you taking the time to help us all out.

Hello Again,

The controller software is still baffling me. I'm now building my 7th throttle.

My test is the hall style thumb throttle purchased a while ago. It works as a tester but not practical for my Boat.

I performed some bench tests using a USB 5 V as my voltage source outputting at 5.08 V.

Thumb throttle bench test results:

Position	Black–Red (?, V)	Black–Green (?, V)	Red–Green (?, V)
Idle (0%)	1.14?k?, 5.08?V	14.00?k?, 0.84?V	11.80?k?, 4.24?V
Full (100%)	1.16?k?, 5.08?V	13.96?k?, 4.33?V	11.74?k?, 0.74?V

For reference here is a photo my mouser potentiometer throttle set up with the pullup/limiting resistors:
https://i.postimg.cc/43hB3VKH/Mouser-potentiomenter.jpg
The little switch closes the contacts for reverse.  I've tested reverse and that function works fine.

Digi-Key Potentiometer – Resistance and Voltage Measurements (Grouped by Wire Pair)

Position	Black–Red (? / V)	Black–Green (? / V)	Red–Green (? / V)
0% (Idle)	13.35?k? / 5.10?V	1.49?k? / 0.56?V	11.86?k? / 4.52?V
50%	13.09?k? / 5.08?V	6.80?k? / 2.80?V	6.43?k? / 2.25?V
100% (Full)	13.35?k? / 5.08?V	11.38?k? / 4.30?V	1.97?k? / 0.75?V

Now on the boat:

• tested the thumb throttle; it works fine so no cabling faults or wiring errors.
• powered off the controller, swapped out the thumb throttle and swapped in the Mouser Pot
• changed from Hall Effect to Potentiometer mode and got the Multiple beeps for throttle error.
• mucked with some of the throttle settings based on my bench tests.
• Some of the settings have rules based on background calculations that don't allow out of spec values
• I am reluctant to put a voltage meter at the throttle assembly in the live system.
• tested wire run individually with no loss of continuity

Here are the initial controller settings I used:


I mucked about, adjusting the settings and this is where I ended up:


Here are the full controller settings:


I'm still not seeing something. Help Please?

Hi Waheed, it sounds like you're still not having much luck even with a replacement controller.

Was the other controller that you installed suitable for a Smart Pie?
Although the Magic Pie Edge, Magic Pie 5 and Smart Pie 5 all use the same vector controller, they each require a different firmware to be installed to suit the specific motors.

Have you tried to measure the throttle signal voltage relative to battery -  to see if it varies within the 0.8V to 4.25V range?

I have been studying the attached pictures but I'm not sure if I'm seeing a blown Diode on the controller as the diode on your photo doesn't look like the one shown on the left photo:

It might just be something stuck in the protective coating covering the Diode but the Diode on the right hand photo looks to me as if it may have been damaged. 

If you have the brake switch wires connected without the brake cables attached, make sure that none of the brake levers are stuck partially open as shown below:


Are you using a 36V battery for testing? If not, why did you change the voltage setting to 36V?

Alan
 

Hi Alan,

The problem was indeed the brake switch. The brake handles are not original Golden Motor ones. A magnet had been glued to the brake handle, but it was broken. Repositioning it to the original spot cleared the error! Thanks for your help!

Hi John,

I'm guessing that the SIF relates to the "All-in-one Connection/Speed Pulse signal output" which is shown as a Purple wire connected to Pin 16 of the CN2 connector and defined as "IF" on the Interface definition in the EZkontrol Users Manual.

Alan