GoldenMotor.com Forum

Hi andto the forum.

6 beeps would definitely indicate a MOSFET protection error if it was the older style GM VEC controller, but your controller is the newer EZ-kontrol type. 

According to the EZkontrol Users Manual the 6 beeps indicate a "Motor Overtemperature" error.
As your video also shows an indicated motor temperature of 300°C, I'm guessing there may be a problem with either the Motor's temperature sensor or its wiring.

Unfortunately, I have no experience with the EZkontrollers or their programming software/Apps so I don't know if it's possible to temporarily disable the motor temperature protection to enable the motor to be quickly tested before locating the cause of the excessively high temperature reading.

Double check the temperature sensor wiring from the motor (the Black and White wires on the Hall Sensor connector).
According to the data sheet for the KTY84-130 temperature sensor it should have a resistance of between 970 and 1030 Ohms at 100°C (measured between the black and white wires on the motor with the Hall connector disconnected.)
I would expect the resistance to be lower than 600 Ohms (if your motor temperature is also at the same 6°C that's showing for the controller temperature) if the motor temperature sensor is working correctly.


                         Temperature (°C)

Hopefully it will be something very simple like a loose connection.



Alan
 
EDIT: Temperature/Resistance Curve Added

I bought a 72V 5kW BLDC Motor with a 400A 72V EZkontrol controller. Finally got it hooked up to batteries (and power switch, and accelerator potentiometer) this weekend. When switched on, I get a light and 6 beeps from the controller. I can connect to the controller via Bluetooth and the iOS app, but I don't see the majority of the settings described in the manual.

I've found online (I think) that 6 beeps means mosfet protection. What does this mean? What is it being protected from? How do I debug this and fix it? Have I missed some critical wiring? The batteries are supplying ~80V, but the specs say the controller should top out at 95V, so that shouldn't be the issue.

Additionally, is there another app that, for example, does the learning mode described in the documentation?

I have a short video of the setup and behavior here: https://youtu.be/Orf2QBU2NOA

Not shown in the video: we tried twisting the accelerator potentiometer to see if maybe the motor would turn despite the error; it did not.

Hi andto the forum.

Unfortunately, I have no experience with the EZKontrollers so I don't know what benefit you would see by changing the firmware. If the 96V firmware is specifically tailored for the 96V motor, it might even make things worse. 
I would try setting the battery parameters to suit your battery and then see how it performs.

The "all or nothing" throttle response is usually because the controller is using torque control instead of speed control and when there is insufficient load being applied to the motor shaft.

I haven't seen any rpm figures for the 120V 10kW motor but I would expect it to be similar to the 96V motor (~4130rpm) if you were running it on the expected 120V battery.
As you are only using a 96V battery, I would have expected the maximum speed to be ~3300 rpm (you may only achieve 80% of its rated speed if you're running it on 80% of its rated voltage) so your 3500 rpm is actually higher than I would have expected.

As the 96V motor develops it maximum power at 3611.9rpm, I would expect the maximum power from the 120V motor to be achieved at a similar rpm on a 120V battery, but this might also be reduced to ~2890rpm when running it on a 96V battery.
This means that your gearing on your buggy will need to be high enough to achieve your maximum speed at this lower rpm.

Alan
 

This project is really a pain... when I got it it was too weak, now that I solved that it's got new problems (the belts not holding up) 

In all honesty I'm thinking about breaking it for parts, maybe fit the parts on a bycicle with shocks. At least it would be "road legal" and I could use it without peoples calling the police 

Anyway it looks like my modifications to make it more torquey led me to another problem: the transmission.
The motor now spins with some power from a dead stop and the pulleys can't survive. The primary is deformed but the final drive belt is destroyed... the small sprocket spins and basically rips the teeth off 
I'm thinking about converting it to chain, but it would be a pain.

Oh, another question: is there a way to make it easier to go in reverse? I mean, if you need to park the bike and you try to pull it backward, there's a lot of resistence. Is it normal and is there a way to avoid this?