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71
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 14, 2025, 11:20:42 AM »
Quote from: Bikemad on March 13, 2025, 11:37:51 PM
I have no experience with the EZ Bluetooth App so I don't know what temperatures it actually monitors and displays. Are you sure that it's the motor that's overheating or could it be the controller?
 

I am positive it is the motor overheating. Through the GM monitoring app on WeChat, I can see them temp limit is 150degC for an alarm and 155degC for it to depower. 160 degC is Shutoff. I watch the live motor temp reading say 155degC. The controller also has temp limits to it, but I am reaching the motor temp limits before the controller.
Quote from: Bikemad on March 13, 2025, 11:37:51 PM

Does your coolant flow in series through the motor first and then through the controller?


Coolant flows from controller to motor but with a small temperature differential between the inlet and outlet temp of the coolant, I don't believe switching the order of this will help very much. Especially because the motor temp is far hotter than the coolant. a 3 deg temp differential will not cause a huge difference in heat transfer between motor and coolant.

Quote from: Bikemad on March 13, 2025, 11:37:51 PM
What rpm is the motor running at when it's drawing the 140 Amps?
If the motor speed is considerably lower than its rated 3,500 rpm it might be running too hot because the motor is being overloaded, in which case a smaller pitch/diameter prop (or possibly a gear reduction on the propshaft) may be required to reduce the load on the motor to allow it to operate at a more efficient rpm, which should then generate less heat in the stator windings.


Motor is running at roughly 3600 underload.

I would like to note that the cooling loop on top of the motor (where ALL the cooling is located) does stay cool. Cool enough I can touch it. But  moving down to the middle of the motor, it gets so hot on the outside casing that it could burn skin. I am wondering if GM just has an inadequate cooling system for their motor to run at full power for any extended period of time.
72
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by Bikemad on March 13, 2025, 11:37:51 PM »
I have no experience with the EZ Bluetooth App so I don't know what temperatures it actually monitors and displays. Are you sure that it's the motor that's overheating or could it be the controller?

Does your coolant flow in series through the motor first and then through the controller?

What rpm is the motor running at when it's drawing the 140 Amps?
If the motor speed is considerably lower than its rated 3,500 rpm it might be running too hot because the motor is being overloaded, in which case a smaller pitch/diameter prop (or possibly a gear reduction on the propshaft) may be required to reduce the load on the motor to allow it to operate at a more efficient rpm, which should then generate less heat in the stator windings.

Alan
 
73
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by GrandeDan on March 12, 2025, 12:02:19 PM »
Quote from: Ziper1221 on March 12, 2025, 02:02:02 AM
Check the outlet temperature of the water cooling. If the delta T is large, then you would benefit from moving more water. If the delta T is small, then you wouldn't, and the limitation is somewhere else.

The temperature difference between inlet and outlet is roughly 3 degrees F. It is not a large difference but with cooling, the more mass that flows through, the more heat will be exchanged. My issue though is that when I run the 5kW motor at 140 amps for an hour on a 52V setup, it still overheats. I would agree there is enough water cooling it but I should be able to run this hard for an hour. This is the only thing I can think of that would be fixable.
74
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Water Cooling Mass Flow Rate?
« Last post by Ziper1221 on March 12, 2025, 02:02:02 AM »
Check the outlet temperature of the water cooling. If the delta T is large, then you would benefit from moving more water. If the delta T is small, then you wouldn't, and the limitation is somewhere else.
75
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Bikemad on March 11, 2025, 12:29:15 PM »
Hi Gilles,

Thanks for the update, it's good to know that you've managed to locate and rectify the problem.

I'm pleased for you that you now have it working correctly.

Alan
 
76
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Weimgi on March 11, 2025, 08:48:23 AM »
Hi to all,

after another couple of hours testing I finaly found the problem.
I have to admit it is quite stupid.

I bought the MP4 as a used kit and the wiring/connectors were wrongly connected.
The connector of the throttle was connected to the connector for the programminng cable,
which has the same pin configuration. I think when the seller did remove the kit, he assembled it wrongly.

I found out because you were talking about the brakes and I found it strange that this part of the
harness was not installed at all. And the voltages were showing nothing than they should...

Quite stupid, but more then happy that the trike is working perfectly now.

Thanks to all!

Regards,
Gilles
77
General Discussions / 48V 10kW BLDC Motor Stator
« Last post by Haywilly on March 10, 2025, 12:15:55 AM »
I'm curious if anyone knows what the stator's material is on the 10kW model. I assume it's laminated/silicon/electrical steel but I haven't been able to find any definitive answers. If it is that, I'm also curious how it's so cheap. From what I've seen, it costs $1k+ for a similar amount.
78
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Bikemad on March 09, 2025, 12:11:34 AM »
Quote from: Weimgi on March 07, 2025, 04:54:52 PM
I only have a mechanical brake that is installed independently to the Magic Pie wheel and I have not
connected/installed the part of the harness that is meant for the brakes.
Could this be a reason why it does not function?

That won't be causing your problem, as the motor should still work fine without the brake sensors connected.

Make sure that the four "unterminated thin wires" coming from the motor harness for Reverse and Pedelec do not have any of their copper cores exposed and touching each other:



It could possibly be a faulty throttle unit that is not sending the correct throttle signal to the controller (Throttle signal voltage should be ~0.8V with throttle released and above 3.25V at full throttle).

If you are considering changing the controller, you might want to remove the controller from the hub and see if the LED on the inside is flashing an error code while the controller is still connected and powered up.
The number of regular flashes relate to different faults:
 A single blink from the LED on the controller circuit board is typically seen when the controller is initially powered up (Simple LED test)
 1 regular flash indicates Over Voltage Protection
 2 regular flashes indicates Under Voltage Protection
 4 regular flashes indicates Stall Protection
 5 regular flashes indicates Hall sensor input is abnormal
 7 regular flashes indicates Phase Wire disconnected
 9 regular flashes Communication problem
14 regular flashes indicates Throttle is not in the idle state when system powered on

Alan
 
79
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Weimgi on March 07, 2025, 04:54:52 PM »
Dear Alan,

first of all, already thank you for taking the time to help me.

Yes, the wheel does turn easily by hand.

The thing is I don't have any brake lever connected "electronicaly" to the Magic Pie.
I only have a mechanical brake that is installed independently to the Magic Pie wheel and I have not
connected/installed the part of the harness that is meant for the brakes.
Could this be a reason why it does not function?

I will recheck all the Pins, but they were looking ok to me.

After this I will do the +5V supply check.

 I was already thinking on buying a Magic Pie 5 controller,
to check if the controller itself is the problem... that's how desperate I am. ;-)

BR Gilles
80
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie 4 no wheel movement on a custom-built E-Trike
« Last post by Bikemad on March 05, 2025, 04:17:01 PM »
Hi Gilles andto the forum.

When you say the "wheel does not turn" I am assuming that it turns easily by hand but not under its own power.

The most common cause when testing a new setup tends to be one of the brake levers has not been connected to the mechanical brake cable and is stuck partially applied, causing the brake switch to remain activated, which will prevent the motor from turning.

If the brake levers are fully installed and the levers are definitely fully released, it may be a faulty brake switch/wiring that is causing the problem.
Unplug both of the brake levers from the main harness and see if the problem still exists. If the throttle then starts working as expected, plug in the brake levers one at a time to see which one is causing the problem.

Another possibility could be a bent pin on one of the connectors. Carefully inspect all of the connectors to make sure that none of the pins have been bent or damaged during the installation.

If you can't see anything obviously wrong with the connector pins the next thing to check would be the +5V supply coming from the controller. Check out this post for further information on how to do this.

Alan
 
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