Recent Posts

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71
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: .. "Knocking" MP5 ...
« Last post by diverdon on July 30, 2024, 11:50:39 AM »
   
       The loose axle nuts seems to have fixed the "knocking" noise .. 3 hours on the bike and no noises ... 
       A couple of other things I noticed may have been caused by the loose nuts ....  I had a "clunk" when I went into the throttle to fast and when I hit the front brake ... Thought it was "normal" ....  Now that's gone too ...no more clunk ..  I must have rode it this way for a year ... Don't want to see what my fork drop out looks like ... I have 2 Torque arms .. 1 is the thick one from Grin Tech. ... perhaps I will put 2 new ones on ....  The other thing is I was constantally needing to adjust the front brake as it rubbed the rim .. That seems to be "fixed" now to ....
       I still use the tip you gave me about the home watt meter to fully charge the battery every now and then ...  Mine goes down to about 4 watts when full ...
      Once AGAIN ... THANK YOU .. Don't know what I'd do without this help ...  If this motor crapped out tomorrow ..I'd say I got my moneys worth out of it ...  But it just keeps going and going ....   Thanks Again .. Don
72
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: .. "Knocking" MP5 ...
« Last post by diverdon on July 28, 2024, 01:19:18 AM »
 
     ..  Thank You for the Reply .... And ... Dummy me ... I posted the "problem" before even checking anything .....
       
           Both axle nuts were barely past finger tight ... I remember the Torque spec being sorta low ...seemingly to me ....  But the axle with the machined in flats ...limits the thread area ....  I understand why one wouldn't want to overtighten it ...

    So anyhow I check the nuts before looking at your reply and cranked them down pretty good ... I had/have an extra nut on the axle end the theory is the double nut locking ... I didn't actually use 2 wrenches to lock the nuts together when I first did it ....   Their LOCKED Together now ....

       So I will get back to you after a couple of days to update if I have any more knocking .... Thinking the lose nuts was it thou .... Thanks Again For Keeping me Going ...  Don
73
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: .. "Knocking" MP5 ...
« Last post by Bikemad on July 27, 2024, 11:03:39 PM »
Quote from: diverdon on July 27, 2024, 04:52:15 PM
I want to check the Axle Nut .. Anyone know the Torque Spec ? Don't want to strip it with the 1/2 axle threads ... Thanks for any Help you can Give ... Don

Same advice as before:
Quote from: Bikemad on November 08, 2020, 03:04:58 PM

Hi Don,

If you read that post again, you will see that I actually recommended 39.5Nm, or 28.76 foot pounds, so if you are happy to tighten yours to 40ft/lbs it should be plenty tight enough for the standard axle nuts.

As I've previously mentioned, I always tighten the axle nuts by feel, as I can usually "feel" when a nut is approaching its yield point.

I will admit that I probably tighten mine a bit more than they need to be because I have steel frames and I run a modified Pie at up to 50 Amps with no torque arms fitted.

I have previously measured the torque output of my modified Magic Pie, which worked out to be ~93Nm @ ~66Amps. Therefore a standard Magic Pie will probably produce ~42Nm of torque @ 30Amps.

My modified controller was eventually pushed to it's limit, but before it finally died, it delivered a whopping 97.75 Amps to the motor:


As torque is proportional to the current, this should theoretically have produced almost 138Nm (101ft/lbs) of torque, which my overtightened axle nuts were able to withstand without allowing the axle to move within the frame dropouts (and that was also without any torque arms fitted).

The most important thing to consider is that the torque on the axle is not one directional, as each time you engage regen, the torque on the axle is applied in the opposite direction to when the motor is being powered.
Any movement at the axle fixings whatsoever should be avoided at all costs, as it will inevitably result in the loosening of the axle nuts.

I regularly put a spanner on the axle nuts just to check they are still nice and tight and I haven't needed to retighten them yet, so presumably nothing is moving where it shouldn't move.  ;)

Alan
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / .. "Knocking" MP5 ...
« Last post by diverdon on July 27, 2024, 04:52:15 PM »

    Hello Everyone .. I searched and read what I could find on this ... Mines a little different as it's "not new" ..at all .. MP5 front wheel of a 26 inch townie 7 speed .. I ride average 8 mph most days between 1-2 hours for some exercise .. i'm handicapped and walk far but can pedal this thing and have lost weight doing it ...
           Over 10,000 miles showing on the speedometer app I use on my phone for the bike ..On the 3rd set of tires ... So it's been used a LOT but pretty easily ..
      2 ? weeks ago as I first left home I got this disturbing knock knock knock from the wheel ... 15? seconds and it was gone ....  2 weeks later .. Today .. I got the knock mid-ride lasted a little longer ...30? seconds ..seemed to get worse (harder) with acceleration ...  1 Hour away from home at 6:30 AM ... I just "gassed it" for a few seconds ... And it went away ... Again ... For the Hour Ride Home ...
    I want to check the Axle Nut .. Anyone know the Torque Spec ? Don't want to strip it with the 1/2 axle threads ... Thanks for any Help you can Give ... Don
75
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Magic Pie doesn't respond to throttle
« Last post by Bikemad on July 14, 2024, 12:28:03 AM »
Hi andto the forum.

I suspect that the Nominal battery voltage setting in the controller is set to a lower voltage than the battery's nominal voltage.
If the throttle was activated when the power was turned off, the voltage in the controller's capacitors would quickly drop below the Overvoltage protection value, causing the motor to briefly jerk.

If your controller is set to a nominal battery voltage of 24V and you are using a 36V battery, the battery voltage may be too high to allow the controller to work as the fully charged battery voltage (42~43.8V) would be higher than the 36V Overvoltage protection value.
Or, if your controller is set to a nominal battery voltage of 36V and you are using a 48V battery, the fully charged battery voltage (54.6~58.8V) would be higher than the 52V Overvoltage protection value:



What voltage Magic Pie did you purchase, and what is the nominal voltage of the battery you are using?

If you have the correct USB programming lead and PC software (or the Bluetooth dongle and smart phone App if it's a MP5) you should be able to set the controller's Nominal battery voltage setting to the correct value to match your nominal battery voltage.

Alan
 

76
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie doesn't respond to throttle
« Last post by Mangan on July 13, 2024, 03:52:22 PM »
I have installed a MP but nothing happends when I throttle.
I have 3 lights on the throttle and I have checked the voltage.
Sometimes if I turn on and off the bike I get a quick movement for a second but then it dies.

Any ideas what can be wrong?
77
General Discussions / Re: Sensorless starting
« Last post by Tommycat on July 12, 2024, 07:21:48 PM »
Hi Tbnrider,
Sounds like a very frustrating experience.

Any chance of the motor's hall sensors having a bad connector, or accidently changing the pin-out thru all this? Use OEM replacement sensors?

Perhaps this thread will give you a different vantage point on something else. Check out the bench testing procedure for sure...
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/golden-motor-magic-pie/110168-testing-bldc-motor-s-phase-wiring-hall-sensors-and-wiring



Regards,
T.C.

78
General Discussions / Sensorless starting
« Last post by Tbnrider on July 12, 2024, 07:04:48 PM »
I have ben having problems at startup on my road bike equipped with a #902 motor system.  On power-up I get a two-beep error message indicating a Hall-sensor problem.  On application of throttle I get a short shudder of motor power, indicating a lack of signals from the Hall circuit.  Removing the Hall circuit connection to the controller yields the same shudder on startup, indicating a sensor-less start.

Initially I tested the signals from the Hall circuit and found one slightly weaker than the other two, so I took the motor apart and replaced the weak sensor. On reassembly, I got the same result, sensor-less startup.

To determine if the problem may have been with the controller, I connected the motor wheels from two other bikes (I have four bikes with 902 systems) and got normal results...no error signal and smooth startup.  And I connected the road bike motor wheel to two other controllers and throttles and got the same error signals and jerky startup as before.

So I concluded that the problem must be with the Hall sensor circuit in the motor.  I took the motor apart again and replaced all three Hall sensors and all the wiring of the Hall circuit (except for the wires in the main external cable to the controller), and checked everything carefully for continuity and short circuitry.  When reassembled with the original controller, I still got the error beeps and jerky sensor-less start.  I tried the motor wheel on the other two spare controllers, with the same results.

Just on the unlikely chance that I got the Hall sensors switched into the wrong order of positions when I installed them in the motor, I tried switching the signal leads from the sensors to the controller, with no difference in the results.

So obviously there appears to be something wrong with the motor, other that a Hall sensor problem.    But what??
What else should I try, other than replace the motor?

And what are the long-term consequences of just putting up with the startup shudder, and just operate with sensor-less starting all the time??

Roy

79
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Breaks not cutting off power to motor (Magic Pie 5)
« Last post by Vipinpsharma on July 12, 2024, 06:09:41 PM »
I have been riding my Magic Pie 5 happily for quite some time. Recently, I noticed that when speed was locked (via the red cruise control button), breaking wasn't cutting off power to the motor at all. I had to press on main thumb throttle lever to disengaged the throttle lock and only then I could use the breaks to slow down the bike.

What is expected to happen is that when speed is locked, squeezing the brakes will not only disengaged the speed lock but also apply the regen to help slow down the bike beyond braking power.

I have tried resetting the parameters via Bluetooth but I don't see the behavior changing. It is as if the squeezing action of the either of the breaks is not being detected. If it was only one break, I could have faulted the break switch itself, but the behavior is the same with either front or rear brakes. I also confirmed my Bluetooth connection is working fine because I can see the effect of changes in the maximum acceleration.

I would appreciate any help here.

Thanks,
Vipin
80
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Looking for a reliable hall sensor throttle for boat (10 kW BLDC and E4682-48)
« Last post by Pontus on July 08, 2024, 07:57:14 AM »
I have this one for sale, in Sweden. Previously used with a VEC500. Works flawless.
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