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51
General Discussions / Re: Changing HALL sensors to my HPM3000?
« Last post by Alpegu on April 28, 2025, 11:14:47 AM »
I read somewhere that they are not the easiest to change in a Goldenmotor, but I think someone on the "Electric Sailboats" group on Facebook has done it. Please let me know if you find the info, as it would be a really good thing to know about. I recently bought a spare GM that was being sold 2nd hand for cheap precisely in case something similar happens to me at sea.
52
General Discussions / Changing HALL sensors to my HPM3000?
« Last post by Kamelisko on April 28, 2025, 11:05:09 AM »
Hello. I've been using goldenmotor HPM3000 now for several years in my boat. It has been working well. However last summer thunderstorm broke the two of the hall sensors in the motor. I bought a new motor and it's now broken as well. I probably need new controller. (The old VEC is little outdated...)

But. In order to get the motor(s) working I need to change the HALL sensors for them. Has anyone done this before? I couldn't find anything about them.

Especially I'm interested how the motor should be opened without braking anything (wires, bearings etc.)

If I'm going to do that I probably do a video about it. You can check the videos of my conversion on YouTube: Arctic SeaCamel.
(IMO the sensors should be made super easy to change, they're basically only thing that can break in motor like this - but that's another topic...)

Thanks!
53
General Discussions / Re: VEC300 with 5kW motor
« Last post by Corchard on April 28, 2025, 12:47:44 AM »
Ugg sorry ... In copying to basic the HTML/BBC coding I got everything all messed up.

The profile for the Detent potentiometer follows the non-detent  one, except for the 0 position, which reads 0 Volts, 0 Ohms across the board.

Essentially is the 0 detent cutoff feature enablable in the controller or will the open circuit think that there is no throttle present?
54
General Discussions / Re: VEC300 with 5kW motor
« Last post by Bikemad on April 28, 2025, 12:15:46 AM »
Quote from: Corchard on April 27, 2025, 02:51:29 PM
As as safety feature I've purchased potentiometer with a  Detent at zero.   Here is the bench test profile:

Digikey potentiometer bench results:
PositionBlack–Red (O, V)Black–Green (O, V)Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)0 O, 0.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%~2.5 kO, 1.25 V~7.5 kO, 1.25 V~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%~5.0 kO, 2.50 V~5.0 kO, 2.50 V~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%~7.5 kO, 3.75 V~2.5 kO, 3.75 V~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)10.00 kO, 5.00 V0 O, 5.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Any Way to make this work?

Something doesn't look right with those readings, it looks as if you may have the wires incorrectly connected to the potentiometer pins because the resistance or voltage reading between the Red and Black should remain at 10kOhm or ~5V regardless of the position of the potentiometer's wiper.


"A" = Black (0V)    "W" = Green (Throttle signal)    "B" = Red (+5V)



Fitting resistors on the Red and Black wires as per the above diagram should allow that potentiometer to operate as a throttle.
According to my calculations, if you used a 2.4kOhm resistor on the Black (0V) wire (instead of the 1.5kOhm resistor shown above) this should produce a throttle signal output voltage of 0.83V to 4.31V with a 5V supply.

Alan
 
55
General Discussions / Re: VEC300 with 5kW motor
« Last post by Corchard on April 27, 2025, 02:51:29 PM »
Thank you for the quick response and thank you for the reminder on the upload tool tools' idiosyncrasies. 

I've got that one figured out:
  • connect to controller
  • save parameters to controller
  • power down controller
  • wait 30 seconds and power powercontroller
  • connect to controller and validate new values
I'll may try to activate the brake test however the reason I am reluctant to put a voltage meter any where near the throttle assembly in the live system is that I had a runaway that lasted <2 seconds that destroyed my Shaft coupling.  It's a wonderfully powerful motor.

I'll try with the settings you suggested.

As as safety feature I've purchased potentiometer with a  Detent at zero.   Here is the bench test profile:

Digikey potentiometer bench results:
PositionBlack–Red (O, V)Black–Green (O, V)Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)0 O, 0.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%~2.5 kO, 1.25 V~7.5 kO, 1.25 V~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%~5.0 kO, 2.50 V~5.0 kO, 2.50 V~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%~7.5 kO, 3.75 V~2.5 kO, 3.75 V~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)10.00 kO, 5.00 V0 O, 5.00 V10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Any Way to make this work?

I really appreciate you taking the time to help us all out.


56
General Discussions / Re: VEC300 with 5kW motor
« Last post by Bikemad on April 27, 2025, 02:32:03 PM »
Hi Charles,

I would first start by setting the Speed throttle type back to 0:Hall Sensor (even though you are using a potentiometer) and see if it helps.

As your throttle signal voltage is only 0.56V at idle, and 4.3V at full throttle, I would suggest trying the following settings:



Make sure the settings are saved to the controller by clicking on the Download icon:

You can check that they have been saved correctly by then clicking the Upload icon to read the saved parameters back from the controller.

If the controller's +5V supply is lower than the USB power supply that you have been testing with, it may result in lower throttle signal voltages.
You may be able to check the exact throttle signal voltage when powered from the controller by temporarily joining the brake wires to ensure the motor will not run and then measuring the voltage between the Black and Green wires on the throttle connector.

Alan
 
57
General Discussions / Re: VEC300 with 5kW motor
« Last post by Corchard on April 27, 2025, 11:34:08 AM »
Hello Again,

The controller software is still baffling me. I'm now building my 7th throttle.

My test is the hall style thumb throttle purchased a while ago. It works as a tester but not practical for my Boat.

I performed some bench tests using a USB 5 V as my voltage source outputting at 5.08 V.

Thumb throttle bench test results:
PositionBlack–Red (?, V)Black–Green (?, V)Red–Green (?, V)
Idle (0%)1.14?k?, 5.08?V14.00?k?, 0.84?V11.80?k?, 4.24?V
Full (100%)1.16?k?, 5.08?V13.96?k?, 4.33?V11.74?k?, 0.74?V

For reference here is a photo my mouser potentiometer throttle set up with the pullup/limiting resistors:
https://i.postimg.cc/43hB3VKH/Mouser-potentiomenter.jpg
The little switch closes the contacts for reverse.  I've tested reverse and that function works fine.

Digi-Key Potentiometer – Resistance and Voltage Measurements (Grouped by Wire Pair)
PositionBlack–Red (? / V)Black–Green (? / V)Red–Green (? / V)
0% (Idle)13.35?k? / 5.10?V1.49?k? / 0.56?V11.86?k? / 4.52?V
50%13.09?k? / 5.08?V6.80?k? / 2.80?V6.43?k? / 2.25?V
100% (Full)13.35?k? / 5.08?V11.38?k? / 4.30?V1.97?k? / 0.75?V

Now on the boat:
  • tested the thumb throttle; it works fine so no cabling faults or wiring errors.
  • powered off the controller, swapped out the thumb throttle and swapped in the Mouser Pot
  • changed from Hall Effect to Potentiometer mode and got the Multiple beeps for throttle error.
  • mucked with some of the throttle settings based on my bench tests.
  • Some of the settings have rules based on background calculations that don't allow out of spec values
  • I am reluctant to put a voltage meter at the throttle assembly in the live system.
  • tested wire run individually with no loss of continuity


Here are the initial controller settings I used:


I mucked about, adjusting the settings and this is where I ended up:


Here are the full controller settings:


I'm still not seeing something. Help Please?
58
General Discussions / Re: New member with a few questions
« Last post by Bargo on April 21, 2025, 07:30:04 PM »
100% @Alan, it’s the burned diode one which I replaced with another controller same exact model, after I tried to replace the diode, I still had some short, could be the cap next to it, but also the replacement board reads 0v at throttle signal same as the previous board before burned. So I’m now suspecting the motor board itself to be the problem and not the controller boar, the black plug that has 5 cables it goes to the motor, there might be the problem.



59
General Discussions / Re: New member with a few questions
« Last post by Bikemad on April 21, 2025, 04:59:45 PM »
Hi Waheed, it sounds like you're still not having much luck even with a replacement controller.

Was the other controller that you installed suitable for a Smart Pie?
Although the Magic Pie Edge, Magic Pie 5 and Smart Pie 5 all use the same vector controller, they each require a different firmware to be installed to suit the specific motors.

Have you tried to measure the throttle signal voltage relative to battery -  to see if it varies within the 0.8V to 4.25V range?

I have been studying the attached pictures but I'm not sure if I'm seeing a blown Diode on the controller as the diode on your photo doesn't look like the one shown on the left photo:

It might just be something stuck in the protective coating covering the Diode but the Diode on the right hand photo looks to me as if it may have been damaged.  :-\

If you have the brake switch wires connected without the brake cables attached, make sure that none of the brake levers are stuck partially open as shown below:


Are you using a 36V battery for testing? If not, why did you change the voltage setting to 36V?

Alan
 
60
General Discussions / Re: New member with a few questions
« Last post by Bargo on April 21, 2025, 06:58:21 AM »
Ok after replacing the controller with another one, I see the same symptoms, except the multimeter ohm reading throttle driving problem.

I could not make the wheel spin using the throttle signal, I checked the software currently running but I could not see anything wrong, after the first time I changed the battery settings from 48v to 36v and then I shutdown and start reading again but this time when I connect the usb to my laptop a strange tick sound comes out every second or so, then if I manually spin the wheel, it starts spinning and then stops and then spins again, here is some photos for what I replaced.

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