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41
General Discussions / Regen braking on vec200
« Last post by R2pittman on January 28, 2025, 04:42:48 AM »
I have a quick question on writing the Regen brake setup on a solar car my students are building.  The problem Is that the motor ground is sperate from the brake circuit ground.  We run a 48v setup for the motor and a sperate 12v battery for the lights on the car. 

To wire the Regen do I feed the +12v wire to the vec200 and the negative to the black brake wire?

Thanks for any help.
42
Electric Motorcycle Conversion / Re: Special bike (old trial) converted but weak
« Last post by Triad on January 24, 2025, 03:56:02 PM »
Hello again! I finally had the bike final transmission converted to chain. Unfortunately I couldn't go smaller than 11-12 teeth on the front and bigger than 64t on the rear... but the bike is still pretty weak from a dead stop. Replacing the front pulley on the primary wouldn't be bad at all, but finding the right length belt isn't easy.
Anyway, given the informations, what battery pack should I get to make it work well as it is? If I replace the battery I'll also have to replace the Vector controller?
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Hi Robert andto the forum.

This voltage puts me right between the 48 and 72 v motors. I assume that I am better off going with the 48v model and carefully watching my current draw and temperatures rather than undervolting the 72v motor and needing an even greater transmission ratio.
I also think that the 48V motor would be preferable over the 72V motor, and I would suggest that a 48V controller should be used in preference to a 72V controller.

I assume I will want the "EZkontrol 72 Volt Universal BLDC Motor Controller" since it is set up for liquid cooling. However, is it programmable enough so that I can set the low voltage cutoff to a lower value for my 55.5v pack?
I suspect that the EZ-A48400 (or EZ-A48500) controller might be a more suitable choice than the VEC200 as the 48V EZkontrollers have a maximum voltage rating of 72V, which is well above your 63V maximum battery voltage.
Unfortunately, I have no direct experience with the EZ range of controllers, so I don't know what the stated "Hundreds of programmable control parameters" actually relate to.

Finally, if I want to control the ESC remotely, is it as simple as using a 5v digital to analog converter?
I've never tried using a digital to analog converter to provide a throttle signal feed for a controller so I don't know for sure if it would work correctly, or how the controller might react if the digital to analog converter malfunctioned while the controller was powered up.

Alan
 
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Hello, I am looking at one of the 3kw BLDC motors for an electric boat conversion with a 55.5 v nominal (63v fully charged) battery. I'm looking for about 6000 RPM loaded. I realize I won't get this directly from the BLDC, so I will probably have a small belt or chain overdrive. This voltage puts me right between the 48 and 72 v motors. I assume that I am better off going with the 48v model and carefully watching my current draw and temperatures rather than undervolting the 72v motor and needing an even greater transmission ratio.

I don't really understand the differences between the ESC but I assume I will want the "EZkontrol 72 Volt Universal BLDC Motor Controller" since it is set up for liquid cooling. However, is it programmable enough so that I can set the low voltage cutoff to a lower value for my 55.5v pack?

Finally, if I want to control the ESC remotely, is it as simple as using a 5v digital to analog converter?

Thank you,
Robert
45
Electric Boat Conversions / Re: Low Amp Draw on 5kW Outboard
« Last post by Bikemad on January 10, 2025, 11:18:37 PM »
Hi andto the forum.

The HPM48-5000 motor produces its rated 5kW power at or below its rated speed of 3,500 rpm. Above this speed the current draw will drop considerably as it approaches it maximum unloaded speed of ~4,390 rpm.
According to the dynamometer data, if the motor is loaded sufficiently to keep its speed below 3,500 rpm at full throttle (with a suitable controller and battery setup) the current draw would be well in excess of 130 Amps.  ;)

Therefore, assuming that my calculations are correct, you would need a larger diameter prop (and/or a larger pitch prop) that would place enough load on the motor to keep its rpm below 3,688 rpm in order to draw the maximum 93 Amps of current that you have set on your controller.

Alan
 
46
Electric Boat Conversions / Low Amp Draw on 5kW Outboard
« Last post by GrandeDan on January 09, 2025, 02:09:47 PM »
Hello all,

I am trying to make a homemade outboard with the 5kW motor. The trouble I am having is when I am under way, my max amperage is set to 93 amps but I only reach 77 amps at full throttle. My max RPM's is set to 4500 but I only reach 4000. I am using an appropriate 48v battery that has been used to draw far more than 73 amps. Any suggestions on if I have a setting on my controller wrong or why I wouldn't be receiving the full power I am asking for?
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You have my gratitude for your forum.  Excellent resource.  Hope your holidays went well!
48
General Discussions / Re: GM 10kW with VEC500 rumbles and grumbles, but does not spin.
« Last post by Bikemad on January 02, 2025, 12:46:23 AM »
Thanks for the update, I'm so relieved that you've been able to locate and rectify this unexpected problem.

I have just been studying the video, and the Yellow, Green and Blue Phase wires definitely appear to be in their correct positions on the motor casing, so it looks like they must have somehow been connected incorrectly internally on both stators.  ???

I apologize for the delayed response as I have been away for a few days and have only just finished celebrating a very delayed "Christmas Day" with a large family gathering at home today.

Alan
 
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Fixed.  Figured i'd post and update in case anyone else runs into this problem.  Swapped the blue and yellow phase wires...presumably wired incorrectly from the factory?  Now runs properly with blue connected to "U" and yellow connected to "W".
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General Discussions / Re: GM 10kW with VEC500 rumbles and grumbles, but does not spin.
« Last post by Orgoglio on December 29, 2024, 05:41:23 PM »
Welp...I am at a loss.  Finally got the software connected and as far as I can tell, it seems to be set up correctly (although I will submit, that's not very far).  I havent checked the voltage on the individual halls sensors as yet (seems unlikely that 2 redundant sets of hall sensors would be bad)...but I will undertake that next.  I have posted a video--as my vocabulary is inadequate to describe what is happening.  Thanks again for your time.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Uci7faR77K4
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