GoldenMotor.com Forum

I am working on a e-bike with a magic controller.. the throttle checks out .8v - 3.8v. Battery voltage confirmed at controller. No motor spin or stutter with or without hall effect disconnected.
If I pull the motor connections on the controller should I see voltage on any pins?
On the removed wires can I apply battery voltage to the blue and yellow to test hub function?

Here's a short follow up on how this issue has developed.

My European GM reseller Vela Solutions replaced the VEC 500 for a EZ Kontrol - free of charge! They also supplied the, a bit ugly though quite sturdy, GM Throttle.

Initial test show no sign of last year's issue. There's no problem doing quick changes between forward and reverse, even when the motor is still coasting.

More testing is needed though, since I haven't tried to brake att higher speeds yet, like when sailing.

For future boatowners experiencing this: I can confirm the above. Coasting keeps the shaft spinning. Vec controllers won't allow reversing when the shaft is still spinning. It almost has to stop or stop totally.
I replaced my vec controller with an ezkontrol version.
Now I can brake by reversing at any speed (boat has a max of 11km/h). Docking has never been so simple when you come of a diesel. Very quick response in shifting forward-reverse and back

Tested over a longer period. Very happy with it.

I have a belt driven setup. I wondered if the belt would skip teeth when going from forward to reverse but it holds up.

Don't bother trying mechanical or e-lock braking. The extra operation takes too much time. Biting the bullet and switching to an ezkontrol has been my perfect sollution.

I recently built my first ebike.  Started with a Mongoose Envoy cargo bike.  Went with the BBSHD, egg rider, and a 52V 50 amp battery.  I have a Lekie 36-36 single speed drive train.  I am getting good torque and top speed of 15.6 mph.  I then purchased and installed a Torque X 3000W controller.  There is a boost of low end torque, but top speed is exactly the same.  I was thinking speed would go up some.  Am I missing a setting that should be changed, or is this to be expected?

Hi Charles, there is no "detent cutoff feature" that can be enabled in the controller.

If the detent potentiometer only has 3 pins it may not have a "cutoff" feature, the detent may purely be used to locate the shaft in a certain position without causing an open circuit.
Usually, if the detent also activates a ON/OFF switch, the switch mechanism and wiring is completely separated from the Resistance/Wiper pins as shown below:



If your potentiometer has 5 pins it should work fine if wired correctly.
If it only has 3 pins (and it definitely disconnects the resistance circuit) it should still be possible to use it, but it would require an additional 10k trimpot and a diode to also be connected to the three throttle wires to provide the expected idle position voltage on the Green throttle signal wire when the switch is in the OFF position.

Do you have a DigiKey part number or a link to the potentiometer/datasheet?

The profile for the Detent potentiometer follows the non-detent one, except for the 0 position, which reads 0 Volts, 0 Ohms across the board.

Zero Ohms and zero Volts would seem to indicate a short circuit rather than an open circuit, which is why I questioned your wiring connections. You might want to double check your connections and your results.

Digikey potentiometer bench results:

Position	Black–Red (O, V)	Black–Green (O, V)	Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)	0 O, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%	~2.5 kO, 1.25 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V	~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%	~7.5 kO, 3.75 V	~2.5 kO, 3.75 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)	10.00 kO, 5.00 V	0 O, 5.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Some of the above results would make more sense if you had wired the potentiometer incorrectly as shown below:

    "A" = Red (5V)    "W" = Black (0V)    "B" = Green (Throttle signal)  <---- This configuration is incorrect

Alan
 

Hello. I've been using goldenmotor HPM3000 now for several years in my boat. It has been working well. However last summer thunderstorm broke the two of the hall sensors in the motor. I bought a new motor and it's now broken as well. I probably need new controller. (The old VEC is little outdated...)

But. In order to get the motor(s) working I need to change the HALL sensors for them. Has anyone done this before? I couldn't find anything about them.

Especially I'm interested how the motor should be opened without braking anything (wires, bearings etc.)

If I'm going to do that I probably do a video about it. You can check the videos of my conversion on YouTube: Arctic SeaCamel.
(IMO the sensors should be made super easy to change, they're basically only thing that can break in motor like this - but that's another topic...)

Thanks!