GoldenMotor.com Forum

I recently built my first ebike.  Started with a Mongoose Envoy cargo bike.  Went with the BBSHD, egg rider, and a 52V 50 amp battery.  I have a Lekie 36-36 single speed drive train.  I am getting good torque and top speed of 15.6 mph.  I then purchased and installed a Torque X 3000W controller.  There is a boost of low end torque, but top speed is exactly the same.  I was thinking speed would go up some.  Am I missing a setting that should be changed, or is this to be expected?

Hi Charles, there is no "detent cutoff feature" that can be enabled in the controller.

If the detent potentiometer only has 3 pins it may not have a "cutoff" feature, the detent may purely be used to locate the shaft in a certain position without causing an open circuit.
Usually, if the detent also activates a ON/OFF switch, the switch mechanism and wiring is completely separated from the Resistance/Wiper pins as shown below:



If your potentiometer has 5 pins it should work fine if wired correctly.
If it only has 3 pins (and it definitely disconnects the resistance circuit) it should still be possible to use it, but it would require an additional 10k trimpot and a diode to also be connected to the three throttle wires to provide the expected idle position voltage on the Green throttle signal wire when the switch is in the OFF position.

Do you have a DigiKey part number or a link to the potentiometer/datasheet?

The profile for the Detent potentiometer follows the non-detent one, except for the 0 position, which reads 0 Volts, 0 Ohms across the board.

Zero Ohms and zero Volts would seem to indicate a short circuit rather than an open circuit, which is why I questioned your wiring connections. You might want to double check your connections and your results.

Digikey potentiometer bench results:

Position	Black–Red (O, V)	Black–Green (O, V)	Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)	0 O, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%	~2.5 kO, 1.25 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V	~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%	~7.5 kO, 3.75 V	~2.5 kO, 3.75 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)	10.00 kO, 5.00 V	0 O, 5.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Some of the above results would make more sense if you had wired the potentiometer incorrectly as shown below:

    "A" = Red (5V)    "W" = Black (0V)    "B" = Green (Throttle signal)  <---- This configuration is incorrect

Alan
 

Hello. I've been using goldenmotor HPM3000 now for several years in my boat. It has been working well. However last summer thunderstorm broke the two of the hall sensors in the motor. I bought a new motor and it's now broken as well. I probably need new controller. (The old VEC is little outdated...)

But. In order to get the motor(s) working I need to change the HALL sensors for them. Has anyone done this before? I couldn't find anything about them.

Especially I'm interested how the motor should be opened without braking anything (wires, bearings etc.)

If I'm going to do that I probably do a video about it. You can check the videos of my conversion on YouTube: Arctic SeaCamel.
(IMO the sensors should be made super easy to change, they're basically only thing that can break in motor like this - but that's another topic...)

Thanks!

As as safety feature I've purchased potentiometer with a  Detent at zero.   Here is the bench test profile:

Digikey potentiometer bench results:

Position	Black–Red (O, V)	Black–Green (O, V)	Red–Green (O, V)
Idle (0%)	0 O, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V
25%	~2.5 kO, 1.25 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V	~5.0 kO, 3.75 V
50%	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V	~5.0 kO, 2.50 V
75%	~7.5 kO, 3.75 V	~2.5 kO, 3.75 V	~7.5 kO, 1.25 V
Full (100%)	10.00 kO, 5.00 V	0 O, 5.00 V	10.00 kO, 0.00 V

Any Way to make this work?

Something doesn't look right with those readings, it looks as if you may have the wires incorrectly connected to the potentiometer pins because the resistance or voltage reading between the Red and Black should remain at 10kOhm or ~5V regardless of the position of the potentiometer's wiper.


"A" = Black (0V)    "W" = Green (Throttle signal)    "B" = Red (+5V)



Fitting resistors on the Red and Black wires as per the above diagram should allow that potentiometer to operate as a throttle.
According to my calculations, if you used a 2.4kOhm resistor on the Black (0V) wire (instead of the 1.5kOhm resistor shown above) this should produce a throttle signal output voltage of 0.83V to 4.31V with a 5V supply.

Alan
 

Hi Charles,

I would first start by setting the Speed throttle type back to 0:Hall Sensor (even though you are using a potentiometer) and see if it helps.

As your throttle signal voltage is only 0.56V at idle, and 4.3V at full throttle, I would suggest trying the following settings:



Make sure the settings are saved to the controller by clicking on the Download icon:

You can check that they have been saved correctly by then clicking the Upload icon to read the saved parameters back from the controller.

If the controller's +5V supply is lower than the USB power supply that you have been testing with, it may result in lower throttle signal voltages.
You may be able to check the exact throttle signal voltage when powered from the controller by temporarily joining the brake wires to ensure the motor will not run and then measuring the voltage between the Black and Green wires on the throttle connector.

Alan