GoldenMotor.com Forum

The 010 is a round handle, the 012 has a wider flat section at the top. I had lots of trouble connecting because I followed the instructional video for the 010 😩.
I’ll have to email GM again about the shuddering. It happens around 2100 rpm and 2600r (rotor speed on the app).

Thanks for the guidance . I looked up the motor and looks like a mini. The wheel will not rotate backward at all. I did find a broken wire (green) and spliced in a new piece but same condition. The user stated that the bike needed to be peddled to go which I assume may have been due to-the broken wire. I measured the resistance of the motor windings …each phase .4 ohms. I see high resistance between neg and each disconnected motor wire and a climbing high resistance from positive to each motor terminal.prob a capacitor charging.I will test the hall sensors next. Thx for the links to the hall sensor tests.

Hi Pontus. Which throttle are you using ? I have the TRC012 and was told by GM to connect all the cables. Several of them don’t fit as the plugs don’t match but the motor seems to work ok. (A bit of “shuddering” at certain revs but everything else seems ok.  I’ve only used the motor once and I’m sure there will be more things to deal with.). I have an EZKontrol controller. Just wondering if you have all cables connected. From memory it cruise, brake and alarm that aren’t connected.

Hi andto the forum.

As you haven't mentioned which motor you are using I will assume that it is most likely a minimotor.

The only voltage you should see on the controller's motor wiring with the motor disconnected is the +5V feed to the Hall Sensors which can be measured between the Red and Black wires on the Hall Sensor connector.

I wouldn't recommend applying battery voltage to the Blue and Yellow Phase wires as the current will be very high and is likely to produce a big spark and could overheat the Phase windings if left connected for too long.

It is better to measure the resistance between each pair of Phase Wires in turn (Between Yellow & Green, Green & Blue and Blue & Yellow) to confirm that all of the three readings are very similar.
Alternatively, with the motor disconnected from the controller try touching together each Phase Wire Pair in turn while turning the wheel backwards. If the Phase windings are good, the wheel should be difficult to turn backwards manually while each of the three pairs of Phase Wires are touched together.

If the Phase Windings check out OK and are all the same, it may be a Hall Sensor problem.
Unfortunately, the minimotors will not run in sensorless mode because the motor needs to be turning so that the controller can detect the movement, but the internal freewheel mechanism (unidirectional clutch) prevents this from happening.
Take a look at this post and this video for information on testing the operation of the Hall Sensors.
With a minimotor, you will have to turn the wheel backwards while testing the Hall Sensors as the unidirectional clutch prevents the wheel from turning the motor in the forward direction.

If a minimotor has been overloaded for too long it can overheat, causing the insulation on the Hall Sensor wires to become damaged due to excessive heat build up in the motor windings:



When the insulation melts, it allows the inner copper wires to short circuit.

Alan
 

Yes I can confirm the above as well.

I replaced my VEC for an EZkontroll last year and, as said, docking has never been as easy as now.
It's actually a game changer to be able to go full throttle for 1/2 second in order to manoeuvre the boat rather then accelerating.