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Sort of a closed book now, Golden Motor has informed me that they are wrong, the Magic Pie 5 will not work with a 14s battery.  I'll get credit, you can count on that... 😉
12
The cooling fan/disk mount assembly may be stuck onto the side cover with silicone sealant or paint but it should come away with a bit of gentle force.

If you cannot get it to separate using a thin blade etc at the joint, try gently threading some suitable long bolts into the disc mounting holes to work as a simple puller to gently pull the cooling fan assembly away from the side cover.

Alan
 
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie 5 Build Nightmare
« Last post by Harpo on July 14, 2026, 06:33:42 PM »
I'm 71 years old, a lifelong technician and mechanic, and have just spent over a month refining and modifying a TerraTrike Rover to accept a rear hub motor.  It originally had 20" rear with an SA 8sp internal, but as others have done with this model I decided to go 26" since the frame will accept it.  I chose Golden Motor because they seemed to have a good product and reputation, and their Magic Pie 5 with internal controller seemed a good fit as space is limited.

Since the Magic Pie 5 is only available for freewheel, I added a new Shimano 6sp system; freewheel, derailleur, shifter, chain, etc.  The assembly and installation went great, a perfect fit in the 135mm dropouts, no problems.  Did some test riding on pedals only, got the shifter dialed in, everything looking great.  Next step was to install throttle, brake levers, and cruise/horn button.  Routed all the wiring nice and neat, tested the brake switches, set her on the rollers and hooked up the battery.  Nothing.  Three LEDs lit on the throttle, no response from the motor.  Disconnected the brake switches and cruise/horn buttons, same result - nothing.

I'm using a 14s battery, which Golden had assured me would work fine.  Regardless, I decided to check programming so I hooked up the PC cable.  System set for 48v, can't set it any higher.  Thought this might be the issue so I contacted Golden, corresponded with Zar.  He assured me 48v setting was fine with 14s.  Making sure, I also tried a partially discharged battery showing 45v.  Still no response. 

More emails, Zar suggested I reseat all the connectors, did this several times, no success.  Followed all his instructions, slow twist on the throttle etc, no success, motor does nothing.  Another email, this time Zar wants me to remove the wheel, remove the controller, and look for a hidden LED.  He sends a short video of an open controller and a blinking LED. 

The motor in the video is not built like mine, my outer cover is integral to the inner finned portion.  I send pictures, he says take it apart anyway.  After a careful but intense conversation with a sharp putty knife and a hammer, the outer cover finally lets go.  I appears to have been glued to the hub - but unlike the video I still haven't reached the controller.

I send pictures, Zar says "You can use any tool to press it force out a bit", so I remove the screws and apply the same tools as before.  The result is chipped off pieces of a cover obviously glued on.  Fortunately I have all the emails that told me to go this far, but in retrospect this is ridiculous.  If I bought a new TV and it never worked, I would NOT expect to be told I needed to do diagnostics at the circuit board level.  This motor is clearly not "user serviceable", the lack of a visible LED is a serious design fault, and to expect a customer to go to these lengths on a brand new product that has never turned a wheel is beyond unreasonable.

I've sent more pictures illustrating this whole debacle and requested immediate replacement, but so far no response from Golden Motor. 

Is my experience typical?

Kind Regards,
Gary
 



       
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Pulled the wheel off to access the controller and see the hidden LED, but mine is not built like any of the pictures.  The inner finned portion and the outer larger bit are all one piece, which doesn't come off even with all bolts removed.  Tapped gently, no go. 

No idea what to do next.   
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I've tried it with a fully charged battery (57.7v) and a partially discharged one (47.5v), no response.  All pins in all connectors look fine. I've reseated connectors several times, no difference.

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Hi Harpo,
According to Google, it's marketed as 56V, but the battery actually consists of 14 lithium-ion cells in series. Each individual cell has a nominal voltage of 3.6V (total nominal 50.4V) and tops out at exactly 4.2V when fully charged (14 cells × 4.2V = 58.8V).

If Google is correct, the fully charged voltage of the EGO 56V battery should not exceed 58.8V, so it should be compatible with the Magic Pie 5 controller set to 48V battery Voltage.
The MP5 controller's maximum permissible working voltage is ~63V.

I suggest that you check the battery's output voltage to confirm it is not too high. If the voltage is OK, then there must be a problem with either the controller, the throttle, or the wiring/connectors.

Also make sure that none of the pins on any of the connectors have been bent/damaged.

Alan
 
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Electric Boat Conversions / Differential Thrust Control anyone?
« Last post by last20 on July 12, 2026, 10:21:34 PM »
I noticed the dual joystick throttle and was wondering if I could leave the outboards stationary and steer with differential thrust control?

Thanks
18
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Magic Pie 5 New Installation, Does Not Work.
« Last post by Harpo on July 12, 2026, 07:20:30 AM »
Magic Pie 5 installed, I selected it because Golden told me it would work with EGO 56v battery, no programming or mods needed.  It does not. 

With all but throttle disconnected, all three throttle LEDs light but no response.  Thinking voltage could be an issue, I connected PC USB cord.  PC software shows options above 48v until you connect motor, then only 24/36/48, others disappear. 

I've spent a large amount of time getting this installation just right, but either this motor is defective or Magic Pie 5 simply won't work on 56v.  I've read the troubleshooting guide, next step would be removing the wheel and disassembling it to reach the controller and watch a hidden LED.  This would mean removing torque arms, derailleur, chain, cables, major job.  If this is a voltage issue or something that can be fixed in software, I'd like to find out now.

And if it simply won't work on 56v, that would be nice to know too...
 
Very disgusted with Golden Motor right now... :(  I cannot imagine someone failing to make the LED visible without major disassembly, that is very poor engineering!

Any ideas?
19
The GM pedelec is very poor as it only senses the pedal rpm not the torque being applied. As your gearing is fixed, fitting a 12 pole magnet ring should enable the PAS to work on the level 1 setting but I don't think it would make much difference to the PAS operation.

I had to stop using the pedelec on my Magic Pie equipped "Wheelie Machine" and just use the thumb throttle because the pedelec was way too sensitive.



If I needed more assistance from the motor when pedalling uphill, I would have to change down to a lower gear. Unfortunately, the sudden increase in the pedal rpm caused too much power to be delivered to the motor, resulting in the front wheel lifting off the ground completely. ::)
Unfortunately, to achieve a decent pedelec operation you would need to install a torque sensing bottom bracket, preferably in combination with a Cycle Analyst to control the current output to provide a true "torque controlled" pedal assistance.

Alan
 
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I could really need an answer because I don't understand if it works as supposed or not. PAS level 1 does not work at all even with Ratio set to 100. If I set PAS Ratio to 70, level 2 starts to work but then the bike accelerates to 25km. If I want to keep a lower pace I have to peddle very slowly and without resistance. It is just useless like this!
I have a Magic Pie 5, pedelec from GM and a single speed bike with Gates Carbon Drive 60 teeth in front and 22 in the back. 
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