GoldenMotor.com Forum

Hi Alan, Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response!

I was successful in connecting the programming cable. I simply had to select COM16, in the drop-down menu next to the "Connect" button. Thanks for the tip.

Unfortunately I was unable to get the screen working, it powers on and shows "error 9", the three button controls for it allow me to change PAS mode, but nothing useful is displayed when the motor spins. I'm not sure if this means I have an incompatible screen or what the issue is. The previous owner never installed the motor on a bike but may have bench tested it. The screen does look like it has been used, but the motor is still mint.

My battery is 14s, but I charge it up with a 13s charger to approximately 54.6V. Sorry, I should have been clearer about that in my original post.

I've been able to increase the battery current setting from 25 to 30A
Max Power is now about 1500W as measured by my battery B.M.S. I'm pretty happy with the motor performance and it has reasonably good torque at low speed. I've left Max Phase Current at 70A (maximum allowed setting).

Over Voltage Protection - Reduced from 62 to 61V. I was unable to set this below 61 for some reason? It's a little weird this cannot be set below 61V, but maybe not a big deal as my B.M.S should cut out at around 58V anyway

I see no settings for Motor or Controller Temperature protection. Do you know if this motor/controller will overheat or is there inbuilt temperature protection? I intend on going up some very big hills!

Max Forward Speed, default setting is 380rpm, the software does not let me upload any changes to this setting?

Regen was a little abrupt, and I was able to adjust it by reducing EBS Phase current from 70 to 60A. Default regen returns up to 1200W to the battery when braking. I'm unsure if this rate of charge is sensible in the long run for my 8p14s battery made of 18650 cells.

I reduced "Decel Level 1 (rpm)" from 65 to 20 but I could not say for sure if this changed anything. Do you know what this setting does?

Hello, I have bought second hand what I think is a Magic Pie 4 motor. It has "2018" on a sticker on the hub body. I have the motor running at 14s battery (54.6V), both throttle and regen work as expected.

I would really appreciate some help with this older motor. In particular:

I would like to change settings with the USB cable that came with the motor. I have installed the windows software, but am unable to connect to the motor when plugged in. I get the error : Fail to open serial port COM09600. I have tried both USB ports on my laptop and get this error regardless. How do I connect the software?

I have a display that came with the motor, this is not showing "error 9" and 0km/hr speed when the motor is spinning. How do I make this one work?

Hi Terry,

I'm not familiar with the EZKontroller settings, so I don't know what gear/speed options are available or how they might affect the low rpm torque/current. It might be worth contacting your supplier direct and explain your low power/rpm problem to them to see if they have a simple solution.

If you don't have a switch to select different gears, try to make sure the default gear is set to the highest available and see if it makes any difference.

Are there any error codes (blinking LED) on the controller? If there are, check out page 9 of the User Manual to determine what's causing the error.

If you have (or are able to borrow for testing) a smaller pitch/diameter prop, it would be very useful to see what difference it makes to the rpm, current draw and the maximum boat speed at full throttle.

Hopefully you will be able to get it much closer to the expected ~5.5-6 knots. (1.34 x the square root of the waterline length of boat in feet.)

Alan
 

Hi Tez andto the forum.

I have very little knowledge of the EZ range of controllers, but I suspect that you may well have something set incorrectly in the controller settings if it's only drawing 25A at 700rpm with full throttle.
According to the User manual, the maximum bus current for the B721000 controller is 500A!

Check the Settings for the controller regarding the Max phase current(A), Max rotor speed(rpm) and Max bus current(A) etc. to see if anything is obviously wrong there.

Whilst belt reduction and/or a smaller propeller with less pitch may well be required to improve the efficiency of the motor, I would still expect the bus current to be a huge amount higher than 25A @ 700rpm if the motor is struggling with incorrect gearing/prop size etc..

Perhaps the motor or controller is simply getting too hot and is automatically reducing the current to prevent overheating, but I don't know for sure if this is the default action with the EZkontrol controllers.
If the current draw from cold is significantly higher, then this could be what's happening.

Hopefully, you will be able to monitor their temperatures using the App to see what is happening.

Do you have liquid cooling installed for both the controller and the motor?

Did the original diesel motor drive through a gear reduction unit? If so, what would the original propshaft rpm have been at maximum boat speed?
According to the Dynomometer figures, the HPM-10kW motor achieves maximum power and maximum efficiency @ just over 3,800 rpm, but I would aim for a gear reduction and/or smaller prop etc. that would allow the motor to run somewhere between 3,000 and 3,500rpm at maximum cruising speed.

Alan
 

I have just been looking at another post showing the inside of the air cooled motor and one of the photos shows four round (threaded?) holes on the rotor:



I suspect that these holes in the rotor disc will be threaded, and would be used (along with a special puller) to pull the rotor disc off the splined motor shaft.

If the rotor disc has been pushed onto the shaft too far by installing mounting bolts that were too long, then you may be able to use some suitably threaded rod and nuts in conjunction with a solid piece of hardwood (or steel box section) across the end of the motor shaft to pull the disc back slightly:



If (after removing the circlip on the motor shaft) the motor cannot be dismantled easily, you may be able to use a simple puller (similar to the one shown above) with the threaded rod screwed into the mounting bolt holes on the front casing to gently pull the housing/bearing off the shaft.

If the centre of the shaft end has a threaded hole for a bolt, you should be able to use a piece of threaded rod and suitable lengths of wood or piece of metal tubing with a large washer and nut to gently pull the motor shaft back through the bearing and front housing again:

   

Hopefully you will be able to sort the problem with this information.



Alan

EDIT: Additional attachments added to post.