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Electric Boat Conversions / Which potentiometer works for x20 outboard motor
« Last post by Sopway on March 07, 2026, 05:02:41 PM »
hi everyone . I'm looking for help as I'm not very rich 🙂.

 I went electric with my wharram, made an outboard motor with a GM 5kw and a Kelly 140A controller, it didn't work perfectly, a little crooked in the shaft and a very noisy motor, so I found a used GM ez outboard x20.

 I sold the old motor/controller and to be kind I threw my new throttle in the deal as I made one myself.

I don't need a 3 Gear death's kontakt or a sticker that tells me which way it moves and Sorry it looks like a toy 🥴.

But to my horror I found out that it doesn't work it can't find neutral .

Well I talked to Hunter from GM but he wouldn't say anything other than it was specially made and the menu was locked, so I had to buy a new one .
and it's just 400€ at miromax😵?💫and after miromax  talked to Hunter he only helps with things you've bought from him👍. correction miromax does not help unless you pay for it, sorry for the misunderstanding.

 and to everyone who is thinking of buying an x5-10 or 20, find another option because the quality is really bad, very soft aluminum and incredibly poorly painted. and this magnet drive is not good, I started melting the whole thing when I tested it together for max 5 seconds above the water COMPLETELY MY OWN FAULT BECAUSE I DIDN'T READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

then the motor drowns, and instead of Golden motor having some drawings etc of the motor on its website, you can get 1 instruction at a time from Hunter and when you have completed the task, you can write to Hunter again for the next task. I could see in the instruction book that water in the motor required that you pack it up and send it back to Golden motor, I don't think you want your motor to lie around longer than necessary when it is filled with salt water, it would have been destroyed before it reached China.

I was lucky enough to get an extra propeller and the thing it sits in, but now I can see that the plastic cover is cracked all the way around the bottom and has subsequently started to rust since the magnets are in an iron frame. Since Golden Motor won't sell me a potentiometer for the throttle, but only a complete throttle, I think I'll try to warn as many people as possible against buying their ez-outboard motor. And by the way, miromax told me that it was an old controller (blue) that was in it 🤔 I have paperwork that says it's from 23 so things quickly become obsolete at Golden Motor, or they've had some old crap lying around in stock that they want to get rid of.

https://youtu.be/OUyPCmI0aso?is=kHsra1PAfoYgrntj

 Regards Sven.
this forum has the same quality as ez outboard motor so bad . you can't delete posts or profile WHY CAN'T I DELETE MY PROFILE THERE ARE NO PEOPLE HERE So what's the point

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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: ... Magic Pie Maintainece ...
« Last post by Bikemad on February 12, 2026, 01:28:33 AM »
Hi Don,

After studying your photo, I think removing the spokes could be risky if the nipples are seized solid onto the spokes, as it could easily result in damage when you try to loosen the nipples.
You can give them all a squirt of penetrating oil and let it stand for a while before attempting to undo them, but if they won't undo easily it might be better to clean them up and treat them in place as best as you can, instead of risking broken spokes (or rounded off nipples) by trying to remove them with excessive force.

As long as the controller cover screws come undone easily, it should be fine to remove them one at a time, clean them off and then refit using some anti seize compound. I would not use Loctite on them as it might make it more difficult to remove in the future.  Just ensure that they are nipped up correctly without over-tightening them.

If you want to blow out any dust trapped between the controller and the disc mount/cooling fan assembly this should not cause any problems as the main hub assembly is typically well sealed.

I always try to follow this well known advice: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Alan
 


3
Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / ... Magic Pie Maintainece ...
« Last post by diverdon on February 11, 2026, 12:07:03 AM »
 
    Hello , I have been riding this bike allmost every day for years .. I have lost track of how long I have had this MP5 .. Just a couple of questions about possible maintainece . I have noticed the spokes have been corroding a little .. I keep it inside it only gets wet if I get caught in the rain .. (seldom) .. I was going to wipe them off with a scotch bright pad and use a rust converter on them (ospho) .. Just wanted to check if that's OK or maybe I shouldn't do it (ospho) .. are the spokes galvinized ?
      The other thing is the screws around the controler cover .. looks like rust on them .. hate for them to get stuck .. Would it be OK to remove them 1 at a time and clean off the rust .. Would you use a anti seize or a locktight when putting them back ? And lastly .. Would it hurt or help anything to run a air blower in the dust cover .. maybe blow out 2-3 years of dust ? Just use low ..30 pounds air pressure ??
       Thanks for any help I can get . This thing is maybe the best purchace I have ever made .. Here's a couple of pictures .. Hope they go thru ..
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Torque Arm Upgrade
« Last post by diverdon on January 28, 2026, 03:48:13 AM »
Hi Don,

The Grin Tech torque arms should be fine as long as everything is tightened up sufficiently.

All my converted bikes have steel dropouts and I have never used torque arms. On my High Power Magic Pie I used longer modified car wheel nuts to ensure that the threads did not strip when tightened really snug.

If both of your axle nuts were done up to ~80Nm (59 ft/lbs) before adding the additional locking nuts then the axle should not be able to twist within the dropouts.

Alan
       I'd sure like forks with nice thick steel dropouts ... How would I go about finding or ordering something like that if you don't mind ... The Lawyer Lips and thin fork legs have allways concerned me   .. Their made of steel .. the frames Aluminum .. It's all lasted this long so there's no hurry .. but if I could upgrade that part it would be great ...   Thanks Again .. And "Happy New Year" ...
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Torque Arm Upgrade
« Last post by diverdon on January 27, 2026, 10:37:37 PM »
   
  Thanks Alan ...
     
      I have the Grin one that bolts directly to the fender threaded part ... I read where you said (I think) that those don't spread out the torque as well as the ones with the long arms and hose clamps ..
      I dug this extra arm out from and older torque arm and added it to the Grin one I'm using ... Now it's attached in 2 places ..
      I also made "witness marks" so I can see if it moves easily .. It's been way over a year since I've tightened it up .. Saw the new Grin one 65 or  85 bucks I forget .. Don't think I need it that bad ..
        The Lug Nut Idea is Interesting .. Like to hear more about that ..
     Here's a Picture of what I've done .. If it goes thru ... Thanks Again for all your help ... Don ..
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Re: Torque Arm Upgrade
« Last post by Bikemad on January 21, 2026, 05:59:53 PM »
Hi Don,

The Grin Tech torque arms should be fine as long as everything is tightened up sufficiently.

All my converted bikes have steel dropouts and I have never used torque arms. On my High Power Magic Pie I used longer modified car wheel nuts to ensure that the threads did not strip when tightened really snug.

If both of your axle nuts were done up to ~80Nm (59 ft/lbs) before adding the additional locking nuts then the axle should not be able to twist within the dropouts.

Alan
 
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Magic Pie & Smart Pie Discussions / Torque Arm Upgrade
« Last post by diverdon on January 19, 2026, 09:37:38 PM »
 
     Hello , Seems like forever since I have even had anything to ask about .. The 1000 watt Magic Pie Front motor has been working perfectly .. Finally after I don't know how long 1-2 years .. I noticed little clunk sometimes when I braked or gave it some power ..  Sure enough the Right side axle nut had backed off a little .. I had it double nutted and marked so I could see if it moved ...
      I retightened it for sure over the torque spec but being careful as the threads on the motor shaft don't go all the way around "weak?" .. So I double nutted it again .. used some locktite this time ..
     I am using a Grin Tech Torque Arm .. 1 on each side .. Has anything better than them come out ? One of them seemed to fit the axle better than the other .. I wish there was a "file to fit version" .. Anyhow probally worried about nothing .. I ride this bike at least an Hour allmost every day ... Thanks for you Time and help ..
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General Discussions / Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
« Last post by Bikemad on December 24, 2025, 11:45:21 PM »


Hopefully Santa will bring you everything that you've asked for.



Alan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
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Thanks Alan for your help. It is  :D running great now
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Unfortunately I was unable to get the screen working, it powers on and shows "error 9", the three button controls for it allow me to change PAS mode, but nothing useful is displayed when the motor spins. I'm not sure if this means I have an incompatible screen or what the issue is. The previous owner never installed the motor on a bike but may have bench tested it. The screen does look like it has been used, but the motor is still mint.
It does sound like the display might be the wrong version for your controller.

I see no settings for Motor or Controller Temperature protection. Do you know if this motor/controller will overheat or is there inbuilt temperature protection? I intend on going up some very big hills!
The controller has a built in temperature sensor and will cut all power to the motor if it gets too hot.

Max Forward Speed, default setting is 380rpm, the software does not let me upload any changes to this setting?
You should be able to enter a lower value if you need to reduce the maximum speed, but it will not accept a higher value than 380rpm.

Regen was a little abrupt, and I was able to adjust it by reducing EBS Phase current from 70 to 60A. Default regen returns up to 1200W to the battery when braking. I'm unsure if this rate of charge is sensible in the long run for my 8p14s battery made of 18650 cells.
You can lower the EBS phase current (regen current) if you want to lower the power being sent to your battery, but this will obviously reduce the braking effect of the regen.
1200W @ 58.8V is just over 20A. If your 18650 cells are 2.6Ah or above this is still only charging the individual cells at a maximum of 1C, which should be fine.

I reduced "Decel Level 1 (rpm)" from 65 to 20 but I could not say for sure if this changed anything. Do you know what this setting does?
The Decel Level 1 (rpm) setting is incorrectly labelled and is very misleading, as it actually relates to the maximum reverse speed in rpm.  ::)
Check out this post for further information on the program settings.
If you don't have a reverse switch, you won't need to worry about this setting.  ;)

Regards,

Alan
 
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