GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: GoldenMotor on June 23, 2009, 08:33:21 AM
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Dear Forum Members,
Our Cruise Controllers are able to withstand voltages higher than its rated voltage up to 60V DC.
For example:
24V Controller is able to work with voltages ranging from 24V~60V DC.
36V Controller is able to work with voltages ranging from 36V~60V DC.
The message is this :
If you want more speed and power, just simply use our higher voltage Battery Pack on any of these controllers.
For example:
Connect a 24V Controller to a 36V Battery, your motor will run faster and feels more powerful than one connected to a 24V Battery.
Disadvantage :
If you use this method to get more speed, the low voltage protection in the controller will not detect the battery's low voltage, however, if you are using our GoldenMotor Lithium Ion battery packs, the built-in BMS in the battery pack will automatically protect the battery from a low voltage situation. This means, GoldenMotor controllers + GoldenMotor Batteries = Double Protection... For the win!
N.B. Why we recommend you to use our GoldenMotor batteries. This is because, our Magic Pie's built in 24V controllers can handle multiple voltages and our Batteries can still manage the low voltage protection.
Best Regards,
GoldenMotor Technical Team
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Is this a feature of the design of all your cruise controllers or is it a recent change.
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Is this a feature of the design of all your cruise controllers or is it a recent change.
I would like to know this too
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It was a hidden feature, until we figured it out, so it's more of a hey-it-can-work-this-way-too kind of thing rather than a buy-this-new-feature-controller-from-us kind of thing. We're just saying that if you have GM batteries, then this feature is very safe to use.
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Will the controller work with no hall sensors attached?
Will the motor reach top speed like normal?
Will the only detriment be that you have to pedal first to get the motor moving?
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I have the GM 36v cruise controller and the GM 36v 12ah lithium battery, with a non GM motor that will run at 48v. I could use the battery I have now on another trike. So if I buy the 48v lithium battery, and a 48v throttle, will that increase my power? It would be nice if it did. I was going to get another 36v lithium for my other trike, because with the lithium battery, it runs faster with the 20lb. lighter battery.
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More voltage = more speed.
You don't need a new throttle unless yours has LEDs in it, in which case the higher voltage would probably blow them (but it'd still work as a throttle ok)
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How much faster would a GM 36V 750 motor run on 48 Volts?
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More voltage = more speed.
You don't need a new throttle unless yours has LEDs in it, in which case the higher voltage would probably blow them (but it'd still work as a throttle ok)
I prefer to use the battery meter, so that's why I'd get a new throttle. I have several with no meters that I don't use anymore.
I know there'd be more speed, but will the torque increase? Sometimes it doesn't. For instance, I have a 24v 450w motor that I run at 36v. The speed increased, but climbing hills still requires the same amount of human power as it did at 24v.
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It was a hidden feature, until we figured it out, so it's more of a hey-it-can-work-this-way-too kind of thing rather than a buy-this-new-feature-controller-from-us kind of thing. We're just saying that if you have GM batteries, then this feature is very safe to use.
I guess you can thank me for that. :)
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More voltage = more speed.
You don't need a new throttle unless yours has LEDs in it, in which case the higher voltage would probably blow them (but it'd still work as a throttle ok)
Wouldn't the LEDs on the throttles that were sent with the magic controllers be unaffected? I thought that they were set by the controller at ~5v and was changed by the controller to reflect (lets say for the 24v controller) how much of the 24v was left?
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More voltage = more speed.
You don't need a new throttle unless yours has LEDs in it, in which case the higher voltage would probably blow them (but it'd still work as a throttle ok)
Wouldn't the LEDs on the throttles that were sent with the magic controllers be unaffected? I thought that they were set by the controller at ~5v and was changed by the controller to reflect (lets say for the 24v controller) how much of the 24v was left?
The LEDs on the throttles supplied with the magic controllers will be affected if a higher voltage battery is fitted.
The throttle sensor connects to the 0~5v connections on the controller, but the LED battery meter has a wire which connects to the positive side of the battery so it can directly monitor the battery's voltage.
The LED meters are preset for one specific battery voltage and are usually marked accordingly on the body of the throttle.
(http://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/image_cache/height.500_width.500_modified.1240612921.6111.TXL-2.jpg)
36v ^
If a throttle unit rated at 24v is connected to a 36v or 48v battery then the battery meter side of it will probably die as soon as battery power is switched on.
The 24v/36v/48v speed controllers may be able to cope with 60v, but the battery meter LED circuit in a 24v/36v throttle unit may not!
Alan
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Yep, unless you're running the voltage the throttle is rated at (and even then there'll be a difference between SLA and lithium packs) it won't work. You could possibly pull the throttle apart and add a resistor to drop the voltage down, but there may be more to it than that and its arguably not worth the effort.
If want to keep a better eye on your voltage a cheap voltmeter would be the way to go, or if you've got more to spend something like a wattsup meter or cycle analyst will give you a good indication of how much juice you've eaten up.
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I've been using the 24v magic controller on 36v for over 400 miles now and it works AWESOME.
I'm still using the 24v LED throttle and it didn't blow the LEDs, so i'm good with that.
I'm using the 250w 24v mini motor with the 24v controller and a 36v battery.
Speed before adding 36v - 16.5 mph.
Speed after changing from 24 to 36v = 21.2 mph
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I´m planning to add a booster pack to my GMlipo 36v10ah. I plan to use 12 D NiMh 10ah, 8S4P
If I use the packs in series, I suppose I need a diode to protect the LIPO BMS
How to wire this??
My motor is 36V 750W whith 36V 50A magic controller
Thanks
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I´m planning to add a booster pack to my GMlipo 36v10ah. I plan to use 12 D NiMh 10ah, 8S4P
If I use the packs in series, I suppose I need a diode to protect the LIPO BMS
How to wire this??
My motor is 36V 750W whith 36V 50A magic controller
Thanks
I just tried a similar setup. I used ten 12Ah NiMH D-cells wired in series for 12 volts to put in series with my 36v 16Ah LiMn battery. It worked great for about 8 miles then heated up and destroyed the NiMH cells. The LiMn battery is completely unharmed.
No diode is needed for the 36v battery. It and its BMS are not seeing any change in voltage. It still has the same voltage from its positive to negative terminals.
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Hi Gregte
Do you Know what happens?? Maybe thin wires? What´s your suggestion??
Thanks
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The way I understand it, the discharge current rating on
LiFePO4 batteries is something around 30C (30 times the capacity
of the cells) while Nickel Metal Hydride cells are closer to 5C.
This is from a single source here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1773
That means if you're using a 10AH LiFePO4 pack, and want to
series a NiMH pack, you would need to use a 30AH pack to handle
the same currents.
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I believe e-lmer has answered what happened to my setup. My LiMn battery was 36v 16Ah and my NiMH battery was 12v 12Ah. Too much current passed thru the NiMH pack.
As an extreme example, for the sake of understanding what happened, thus making it easer to see, imagine putting a D-cell in series with your car's lead acid battery and then try starting your car. The D-cell would get extremely hot. It would be acting like a resistor in series with a high current source (car battery) connected to a high current load (car starter motor).
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Gregte, sounds to me like it wasn't too-high current that destroyed your NiMH cells. They did fine for the first 30 minutes, despite high current.
But then they ran out of power - they had exhausted the 12Ah they had available, while the 16Ah Lithium cells still had more power to give. The lithium cells kept pumping current through the DEAD NiMH cells, which is an EXTREMELY bad thing to do to any rechargeable cell.
When any cell discharges, it puts out current from the + terminal and takes it back in through the - terminal. When you charge the cell, you force current the opposite way - pushing current into the + terminal and getting it back out through the - terminal. Those are normal modes of operation, and will not hurt the cell.
When a cell is completely exhausted, it won't push any current anywhere, of course. But you can charge it by using an external device (battery charger) to push current into the + terminal, as I said, and you won't harm it. You'll just charge it.
But if you have a completely exhausted cell, and try to push current into the - terminal, you will ruin it VERY quickly, like in seconds. And that's what your lithium cells did to your NiMH cells.
That's why it's so important to "balance" your battery. A battery is made up of a number of individual cells. And there are always slight differences between cells - they are never exactly identical. If one of them gets exhausted before the others go dead, the others will keep pumping current through the exhausted cell, the wrong way... and wreck it almost instantly.
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today I have conected a 12 v drycell battery in series with the lipo 36 v pack and went driving with it
abaut 12 km\h more speed [53 km\h] and regenerative braking is working a lot better
before it was like dropping an anker and at speed above 30 braking go's on and of
i have drive for abaut 10 min and controller temp was about 30 degree and motor 25 degree
before always cold
i think you can safe ad about 2 extra cels [6.6v]
wat wil happen if you not use the speed and go for more miliage
i have a 36v 750w frontwheel
can GM deliver the batteries needed ???
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While it is possible to hook mixed chemistry batteries together,
it is not a good idea.
At best you can damage your battery pack, and at worst you can
have the LiPO pack catch fire. They can be quite spectacular when
the do.
Ok, LiFePO4 batteries don't explode, but other lithium chemistry can.
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LiMn ..the other non-explosive white meat ;)