GoldenMotor.com Forum
General Category => General Discussions => Topic started by: Raevin on May 14, 2025, 08:33:20 PM
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I am working on a e-bike with a magic controller.. the throttle checks out .8v - 3.8v. Battery voltage confirmed at controller. No motor spin or stutter with or without hall effect disconnected.
If I pull the motor connections on the controller should I see voltage on any pins?
On the removed wires can I apply battery voltage to the blue and yellow to test hub function?
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Hi and(https://i.imgur.com/evDSMvT.png)to the forum.
As you haven't mentioned which motor you are using I will assume that it is most likely a minimotor.
The only voltage you should see on the controller's motor wiring with the motor disconnected is the +5V feed to the Hall Sensors which can be measured between the Red and Black wires on the Hall Sensor connector.
I wouldn't recommend applying battery voltage to the Blue and Yellow Phase wires as the current will be very high and is likely to produce a big spark and could overheat the Phase windings if left connected for too long.
It is better to measure the resistance between each pair of Phase Wires in turn (Between Yellow & Green, Green & Blue and Blue & Yellow) to confirm that all of the three readings are very similar.
Alternatively, with the motor disconnected from the controller try touching together each Phase Wire Pair in turn while turning the wheel backwards. If the Phase windings are good, the wheel should be difficult to turn backwards manually while each of the three pairs of Phase Wires are touched together.
If the Phase Windings check out OK and are all the same, it may be a Hall Sensor problem.
Unfortunately, the minimotors will not run in sensorless mode because the motor needs to be turning so that the controller can detect the movement, but the internal freewheel mechanism (unidirectional clutch) prevents this from happening.
Take a look at this post (http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=2409.msg14247#msg14247) and this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m8DA6mmo84) for information on testing the operation of the Hall Sensors.
With a minimotor, you will have to turn the wheel backwards while testing the Hall Sensors as the unidirectional clutch prevents the wheel from turning the motor in the forward direction.
If a minimotor has been overloaded for too long it can overheat, causing the insulation on the Hall Sensor wires to become damaged due to excessive heat build up in the motor windings:
(http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1324.0;attach=1193;image)
When the insulation melts, it allows the inner copper wires to short circuit.
Alan
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Thanks for the guidance . I looked up the motor and looks like a mini. The wheel will not rotate backward at all. I did find a broken wire (green) and spliced in a new piece but same condition. The user stated that the bike needed to be peddled to go which I assume may have been due to-the broken wire. I measured the resistance of the motor windings …each phase .4 ohms. I see high resistance between neg and each disconnected motor wire and a climbing high resistance from positive to each motor terminal.prob a capacitor charging.I will test the hall sensors next. Thx for the links to the hall sensor tests.